My first godzilla finish machine
#1
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 609
My first godzilla finish machine
I found this machine at a local flea market for $10. Its complete with the bobbin assembly and is a Kenmore Commander model number 117.300. It needs to be rewired since someone attempted it and I guess forgot to finish, they also lost the 2 tiny screws that hold the bakelite plug together. I'll be on a search for those. It's got an odd tire on it that I've never seen before, I thought all motors had belts, is this just something someone put on there? It seems kinda dangerous since it's running against the handwheel. It came in what looks like the original wooden, fabric covered case.
#3
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Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 613
so... how attached are you to the bakelite plug? Check these ones out. http://www.sundialwire.com/plugs.aspx#category Oh and remember to put something between the motor and the body so that it won't deform that rubber wheel. *grin* enjoy your new machine!
#4
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 609
I guess I'm pretty attached to the backlite because it hooks to the machine. It's sort of a weird configuration in that it has 3 slots for flat pins rather than the round ones I'm used to seeing.
I'm not understanding what needs to go between the motor and the body.
I'm not understanding what needs to go between the motor and the body.
#5
Super Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 8,091
Crocee,
We just had another thread here earlier this week and last about someone with a Kenmore Commander. The OP actually rewired their machine due to the jury rigged wiring. It's easy to do.
You can get replacement cord sets at SEW-CLASSIC and others. You can, or might, find replacement screws at any good hardware store that stocks small machine screws. Those would probably be a #2 size or maybe 2 mm.
That machine is a White made machine and the hand wheel rotates away from you as you sew. If you turn it towards you it won't pick up the bobbin thread properly. Otherwise they are excellent machines.
When you get it running if there is a vibration look at the rubber on the drive wheel. If there is any flat spots, probably will be, that will be the cause of the vibration. Besides replacing the drive wheel you can sometimes move it in or out on the motor shaft and put a smooth area on the hand wheel. That's what I did on one of mine. I think SEW-CLASSICS has those too and there are other places that do also.
To hear what a racket a flat spotted drive wheel can cause look through this thread for the video on the naked Kenmore running. Most of that roar is caused by the flat spots on the drive wheel.
{ http://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage...e-t189987.html }
The video is on top of page two.
Joe
We just had another thread here earlier this week and last about someone with a Kenmore Commander. The OP actually rewired their machine due to the jury rigged wiring. It's easy to do.
You can get replacement cord sets at SEW-CLASSIC and others. You can, or might, find replacement screws at any good hardware store that stocks small machine screws. Those would probably be a #2 size or maybe 2 mm.
That machine is a White made machine and the hand wheel rotates away from you as you sew. If you turn it towards you it won't pick up the bobbin thread properly. Otherwise they are excellent machines.
When you get it running if there is a vibration look at the rubber on the drive wheel. If there is any flat spots, probably will be, that will be the cause of the vibration. Besides replacing the drive wheel you can sometimes move it in or out on the motor shaft and put a smooth area on the hand wheel. That's what I did on one of mine. I think SEW-CLASSICS has those too and there are other places that do also.
To hear what a racket a flat spotted drive wheel can cause look through this thread for the video on the naked Kenmore running. Most of that roar is caused by the flat spots on the drive wheel.
{ http://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage...e-t189987.html }
The video is on top of page two.
Joe
Last edited by J Miller; 06-06-2014 at 05:21 AM.
#6
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 609
Thanks Joe. The drive wheel definitely must be replaced as its got several flat spots. I'm going to take a trip to the local farm center since they carry some teeny tiny screws. The wiring looks good, its just apart. When I hook everything back up I'm going to do away with the light fixture since I use a free standing one. I found the drive wheels at sew-classic when I was looking around last night. That was the ONLY place I found them.
#8
HEY......that was me. (or I, if Mrs. Elliott is listening). I am so glad to see this post. Mine is still sitting on the sunroom table, waiting for me to finish cleaning it up. I really do like it, but will probably wind up giving it to a grandkid who might be able to work with a "backwards" machine.....
#9
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Centralia, WA, USA
Posts: 4,890
You may be able to sand the flat spots out by holding a piece of sandpaper to the drive wheel and running the motor. Another option is to loosen the set screw holding the drive wheel to the shaft and slide the wheel over a bit to miss the flat spots like Joe said until you get a new drive wheel (the best option). Sew-Classic carries a couple different sizes.
Once you've gotten rid of the flat spots stick something between the motor and machine to release the pressure on your drive wheel when you're not using it. That will keep new flat spots from forming.
I've only owned one White made machine and it was solid. I think you'll enjoy yours.
Rodney
Once you've gotten rid of the flat spots stick something between the motor and machine to release the pressure on your drive wheel when you're not using it. That will keep new flat spots from forming.
I've only owned one White made machine and it was solid. I think you'll enjoy yours.
Rodney
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