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Thread: My intro to the Treadle world and my love! (Willcox & Gibbs Chain Stitch!)

  1. #11
    Junior Member Kittywolf13's Avatar
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    I will!!

  2. #12
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    Willcox and Gibbs Ferrule for Treadle Belt

    Quote Originally Posted by Kittywolf13 View Post
    I ordered a spool of treadle belt so hopefully i wont have a hard time punching a hole in it! *crosses fingers and hopes* If i cant get it, i will try the fish tank tubing! The ball in my treadle is made of Neoprene. so its stiff, but has a soft rubbery texture. it has a slight bounce to it if i drop it.
    Actually Willcox and Gibbs did not connect the treadle belt with a staple like most other machines. They used a little ferrule which screwded on to both ends of the treadle belt to connect it together. Unfortunately they were often lost when the old belt rotted away. By good luck a couple of years ago I purchased an old W&G machine that still had a ferrule attaching the two parts of a very rotten belt that was in pieces but had not been thrown away yet. The original ferrule is in the center while the homemade one is on the end. They are 3/16 inch in diameter and 3/8 inch long. I thought it might be helpful if I explain how I made my DIY ferrule.
    Name:  Ferrule 1.JPG
Views: 414
Size:  90.7 KB
    1. I started with a 1/2 inch brass Chicago Screw (aluminum also works). Cost about $1.00.
    2. I used a Dremell tool with a cut off wheel to cut off the barrel of the Chicago screw 3/8 inch from the end, leaving only a short stump attached to the head.
    3. To fit the ferrule to the 3/16 inch treadle belt used by W&G you need to taper the end of the belt. I use a pencil sharpener. I GENTLY push the end of the belt into the pencil sharpener and turn.
    4. To connect the ferrule to the leather belt I push the tapered end into the ferrule and turn in a clockwise direction. I can usually make about 3 complete turns before it get too hard to turn. This is the same method as describe on page 32 of the 1870 W&G brochure available on line from the Smithsonian Institution at
    (http://www.sil.si.edu/DigitalCollect...0039/index.htm). It is much harder to describe than to do. The resulting connection is more than strong enough for a treadle machine, is very easy to remove and reattach, and gives a nice authentic addition to your W&G treadle.

  3. #13
    Junior Member Kittywolf13's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cwillis View Post
    Actually Willcox and Gibbs did not connect the treadle belt with a staple like most other machines. They used a little ferrule which screwded on to both ends of the treadle belt to connect it together. Unfortunately they were often lost when the old belt rotted away. By good luck a couple of years ago I purchased an old W&G machine that still had a ferrule attaching the two parts of a very rotten belt that was in pieces but had not been thrown away yet. The original ferrule is in the center while the homemade one is on the end. They are 3/16 inch in diameter and 3/8 inch long. I thought it might be helpful if I explain how I made my DIY ferrule.
    Name:  Ferrule 1.JPG
Views: 414
Size:  90.7 KB
    1. I started with a 1/2 inch brass Chicago Screw (aluminum also works). Cost about $1.00.
    2. I used a Dremell tool with a cut off wheel to cut off the barrel of the Chicago screw 3/8 inch from the end, leaving only a short stump attached to the head.
    3. To fit the ferrule to the 3/16 inch treadle belt used by W&G you need to taper the end of the belt. I use a pencil sharpener. I GENTLY push the end of the belt into the pencil sharpener and turn.
    4. To connect the ferrule to the leather belt I push the tapered end into the ferrule and turn in a clockwise direction. I can usually make about 3 complete turns before it get too hard to turn. This is the same method as describe on page 32 of the 1870 W&G brochure available on line from the Smithsonian Institution at
    (http://www.sil.si.edu/DigitalCollect...0039/index.htm). It is much harder to describe than to do. The resulting connection is more than strong enough for a treadle machine, is very easy to remove and reattach, and gives a nice authentic addition to your W&G treadle.
    Wow thanks! I will have to try this! So cool! Thank you so much!
    Proud owner of: Eleanor, a 1896 Willcox & Gibbs Chain Stitch Treadle
    Tucci, a 1952 Singer Featherweight
    my mothers Singer Touch & Sew 758
    Flower, Brother XR 6060
    1910 Singer 66
    Singer 99K
    Shadow, 1929 Singer 128 (currently w/hand crank)

  4. #14
    Super Member ArchaicArcane's Avatar
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    Hey KittyWolf13,

    I should be picking up a similar if not the same machine this weekend. The picture I have is this:

    Name:  photo 2 (2).JPG
Views: 261
Size:  40.5 KB

    It's a lot of miles away, but the DH likes road trips and has never been there before. The lady who's selling it is selling off a collection, and both the DH and I are excited to see it.

    Do you know what sort of needles it takes yet? I'll be interested to see if I can get this one up and running.
    Tammi - I've found that many baby steps tend to get you further than a huge leap in followed by a huge leap out - http://www.archaicarcane.com
    Singer 411G, 301A, 2x 221 (featherweight), 222k - the holy grail, 15-90 Centennial, 27, VS2, 28 hc, 128 knee bar, 201-2, 31-15, Pfaff 130-6. Non-Vintage - Pfaff 6122, Kenmore (Janome) 385.81595 serger, Kenmore (Janome) 385.81155, 2013 APQS Lucey

  5. #15
    Junior Member Kittywolf13's Avatar
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    Mine came with a needle and I've heard mixed reviews about the needle it uses. Some swear only by the original W&G needle, which has a groove running through the entire needle. Others have found success with needles by organ. As for sizes I'm not terriably familiar with those yet. I got my W&G needles from Alex Susexx from sewalot. The other needles I got off eBay. I've pretty much been in the mod set that if I find W&G needles I'm going to buy them as I fin their the rarest bit of the machine. If you have difficulty let me know by sending me a pm!
    Proud owner of: Eleanor, a 1896 Willcox & Gibbs Chain Stitch Treadle
    Tucci, a 1952 Singer Featherweight
    my mothers Singer Touch & Sew 758
    Flower, Brother XR 6060
    1910 Singer 66
    Singer 99K
    Shadow, 1929 Singer 128 (currently w/hand crank)

  6. #16
    Super Member cabbagepatchkid's Avatar
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    Sep 2009
    Location
    Massachusetts, USA
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    Quote Originally Posted by cwillis View Post
    Actually Willcox and Gibbs did not connect the treadle belt with a staple like most other machines. They used a little ferrule which screwded on to both ends of the treadle belt to connect it together. Unfortunately they were often lost when the old belt rotted away. By good luck a couple of years ago I purchased an old W&G machine that still had a ferrule attaching the two parts of a very rotten belt that was in pieces but had not been thrown away yet. The original ferrule is in the center while the homemade one is on the end. They are 3/16 inch in diameter and 3/8 inch long. I thought it might be helpful if I explain how I made my DIY ferrule.
    Name:  Ferrule 1.JPG
Views: 414
Size:  90.7 KB
    1. I started with a 1/2 inch brass Chicago Screw (aluminum also works). Cost about $1.00.
    2. I used a Dremell tool with a cut off wheel to cut off the barrel of the Chicago screw 3/8 inch from the end, leaving only a short stump attached to the head.
    3. To fit the ferrule to the 3/16 inch treadle belt used by W&G you need to taper the end of the belt. I use a pencil sharpener. I GENTLY push the end of the belt into the pencil sharpener and turn.
    4. To connect the ferrule to the leather belt I push the tapered end into the ferrule and turn in a clockwise direction. I can usually make about 3 complete turns before it get too hard to turn. This is the same method as describe on page 32 of the 1870 W&G brochure available on line from the Smithsonian Institution at
    (http://www.sil.si.edu/DigitalCollect...0039/index.htm). It is much harder to describe than to do. The resulting connection is more than strong enough for a treadle machine, is very easy to remove and reattach, and gives a nice authentic addition to your W&G treadle.
    Hi and welcome to the forum Thanks so much for sharing this! I just learned something new.
    ~~Cathy~~

  7. #17
    Super Member ArchaicArcane's Avatar
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    Central Alberta, Canada
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kittywolf13 View Post
    Mine came with a needle and I've heard mixed reviews about the needle it uses. Some swear only by the original W&G needle, which has a groove running through the entire needle. Others have found success with needles by organ. As for sizes I'm not terriably familiar with those yet. I got my W&G needles from Alex Susexx from sewalot. The other needles I got off eBay. I've pretty much been in the mod set that if I find W&G needles I'm going to buy them as I fin their the rarest bit of the machine. If you have difficulty let me know by sending me a pm!
    Thanks for that information! I am going to ask the lady we're getting it from if she has a source for needles, and then go from there. In talking with her, she sounds like me, in a few years. She's got shelves and shelves full of machines she's rehabbed, and she's overrun. I'm sure she'll know where to get them. Once I have more info, I'll PM and we can compare notes
    Tammi - I've found that many baby steps tend to get you further than a huge leap in followed by a huge leap out - http://www.archaicarcane.com
    Singer 411G, 301A, 2x 221 (featherweight), 222k - the holy grail, 15-90 Centennial, 27, VS2, 28 hc, 128 knee bar, 201-2, 31-15, Pfaff 130-6. Non-Vintage - Pfaff 6122, Kenmore (Janome) 385.81595 serger, Kenmore (Janome) 385.81155, 2013 APQS Lucey

  8. #18
    Junior Member Kittywolf13's Avatar
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    Oct 2012
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    Naples, FL.
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    sounds wonderful! i appreciate that!!
    Proud owner of: Eleanor, a 1896 Willcox & Gibbs Chain Stitch Treadle
    Tucci, a 1952 Singer Featherweight
    my mothers Singer Touch & Sew 758
    Flower, Brother XR 6060
    1910 Singer 66
    Singer 99K
    Shadow, 1929 Singer 128 (currently w/hand crank)

  9. #19
    Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    1
    I have purchased this wonderful little machine and am at present trying to restore , have to replace a couple of pieces, does any one know how to get the hand wheel off as am sending parts to be re chromed . they are a lovely little machine .

  10. #20
    Super Member Rodney's Avatar
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    Oct 2013
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    Centralia, WA, USA
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    Welcome aboard. Most likely the shiny parts are going to be nickel plated, not chrome. Nickel was widely used when the machines were made, chrome not so much. There should be some experts that can answer your questions around tomorrow or the next day.
    Rodney

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