My intro to the Treadle world and my love! (Willcox & Gibbs Chain Stitch!)
#12
Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Colorado
Posts: 9
Willcox and Gibbs Ferrule for Treadle Belt
I ordered a spool of treadle belt so hopefully i wont have a hard time punching a hole in it! *crosses fingers and hopes* If i cant get it, i will try the fish tank tubing! The ball in my treadle is made of Neoprene. so its stiff, but has a soft rubbery texture. it has a slight bounce to it if i drop it.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]369036[/ATTACH]
1. I started with a 1/2 inch brass Chicago Screw (aluminum also works). Cost about $1.00.
2. I used a Dremell tool with a cut off wheel to cut off the barrel of the Chicago screw 3/8 inch from the end, leaving only a short stump attached to the head.
3. To fit the ferrule to the 3/16 inch treadle belt used by W&G you need to taper the end of the belt. I use a pencil sharpener. I GENTLY push the end of the belt into the pencil sharpener and turn.
4. To connect the ferrule to the leather belt I push the tapered end into the ferrule and turn in a clockwise direction. I can usually make about 3 complete turns before it get too hard to turn. This is the same method as describe on page 32 of the 1870 W&G brochure available on line from the Smithsonian Institution at
(http://www.sil.si.edu/DigitalCollect...0039/index.htm). It is much harder to describe than to do. The resulting connection is more than strong enough for a treadle machine, is very easy to remove and reattach, and gives a nice authentic addition to your W&G treadle.
#13
Actually Willcox and Gibbs did not connect the treadle belt with a staple like most other machines. They used a little ferrule which screwded on to both ends of the treadle belt to connect it together. Unfortunately they were often lost when the old belt rotted away. By good luck a couple of years ago I purchased an old W&G machine that still had a ferrule attaching the two parts of a very rotten belt that was in pieces but had not been thrown away yet. The original ferrule is in the center while the homemade one is on the end. They are 3/16 inch in diameter and 3/8 inch long. I thought it might be helpful if I explain how I made my DIY ferrule.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]369036[/ATTACH]
1. I started with a 1/2 inch brass Chicago Screw (aluminum also works). Cost about $1.00.
2. I used a Dremell tool with a cut off wheel to cut off the barrel of the Chicago screw 3/8 inch from the end, leaving only a short stump attached to the head.
3. To fit the ferrule to the 3/16 inch treadle belt used by W&G you need to taper the end of the belt. I use a pencil sharpener. I GENTLY push the end of the belt into the pencil sharpener and turn.
4. To connect the ferrule to the leather belt I push the tapered end into the ferrule and turn in a clockwise direction. I can usually make about 3 complete turns before it get too hard to turn. This is the same method as describe on page 32 of the 1870 W&G brochure available on line from the Smithsonian Institution at
(http://www.sil.si.edu/DigitalCollect...0039/index.htm). It is much harder to describe than to do. The resulting connection is more than strong enough for a treadle machine, is very easy to remove and reattach, and gives a nice authentic addition to your W&G treadle.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]369036[/ATTACH]
1. I started with a 1/2 inch brass Chicago Screw (aluminum also works). Cost about $1.00.
2. I used a Dremell tool with a cut off wheel to cut off the barrel of the Chicago screw 3/8 inch from the end, leaving only a short stump attached to the head.
3. To fit the ferrule to the 3/16 inch treadle belt used by W&G you need to taper the end of the belt. I use a pencil sharpener. I GENTLY push the end of the belt into the pencil sharpener and turn.
4. To connect the ferrule to the leather belt I push the tapered end into the ferrule and turn in a clockwise direction. I can usually make about 3 complete turns before it get too hard to turn. This is the same method as describe on page 32 of the 1870 W&G brochure available on line from the Smithsonian Institution at
(http://www.sil.si.edu/DigitalCollect...0039/index.htm). It is much harder to describe than to do. The resulting connection is more than strong enough for a treadle machine, is very easy to remove and reattach, and gives a nice authentic addition to your W&G treadle.
#14
Hey KittyWolf13,
I should be picking up a similar if not the same machine this weekend. The picture I have is this:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]369041[/ATTACH]
It's a lot of miles away, but the DH likes road trips and has never been there before. The lady who's selling it is selling off a collection, and both the DH and I are excited to see it.
Do you know what sort of needles it takes yet? I'll be interested to see if I can get this one up and running.
I should be picking up a similar if not the same machine this weekend. The picture I have is this:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]369041[/ATTACH]
It's a lot of miles away, but the DH likes road trips and has never been there before. The lady who's selling it is selling off a collection, and both the DH and I are excited to see it.
Do you know what sort of needles it takes yet? I'll be interested to see if I can get this one up and running.
#15
Mine came with a needle and I've heard mixed reviews about the needle it uses. Some swear only by the original W&G needle, which has a groove running through the entire needle. Others have found success with needles by organ. As for sizes I'm not terriably familiar with those yet. I got my W&G needles from Alex Susexx from sewalot. The other needles I got off eBay. I've pretty much been in the mod set that if I find W&G needles I'm going to buy them as I fin their the rarest bit of the machine. If you have difficulty let me know by sending me a pm!
#16
Super Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Massachusetts, USA
Posts: 1,775
Actually Willcox and Gibbs did not connect the treadle belt with a staple like most other machines. They used a little ferrule which screwded on to both ends of the treadle belt to connect it together. Unfortunately they were often lost when the old belt rotted away. By good luck a couple of years ago I purchased an old W&G machine that still had a ferrule attaching the two parts of a very rotten belt that was in pieces but had not been thrown away yet. The original ferrule is in the center while the homemade one is on the end. They are 3/16 inch in diameter and 3/8 inch long. I thought it might be helpful if I explain how I made my DIY ferrule.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]369036[/ATTACH]
1. I started with a 1/2 inch brass Chicago Screw (aluminum also works). Cost about $1.00.
2. I used a Dremell tool with a cut off wheel to cut off the barrel of the Chicago screw 3/8 inch from the end, leaving only a short stump attached to the head.
3. To fit the ferrule to the 3/16 inch treadle belt used by W&G you need to taper the end of the belt. I use a pencil sharpener. I GENTLY push the end of the belt into the pencil sharpener and turn.
4. To connect the ferrule to the leather belt I push the tapered end into the ferrule and turn in a clockwise direction. I can usually make about 3 complete turns before it get too hard to turn. This is the same method as describe on page 32 of the 1870 W&G brochure available on line from the Smithsonian Institution at
(http://www.sil.si.edu/DigitalCollect...0039/index.htm). It is much harder to describe than to do. The resulting connection is more than strong enough for a treadle machine, is very easy to remove and reattach, and gives a nice authentic addition to your W&G treadle.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]369036[/ATTACH]
1. I started with a 1/2 inch brass Chicago Screw (aluminum also works). Cost about $1.00.
2. I used a Dremell tool with a cut off wheel to cut off the barrel of the Chicago screw 3/8 inch from the end, leaving only a short stump attached to the head.
3. To fit the ferrule to the 3/16 inch treadle belt used by W&G you need to taper the end of the belt. I use a pencil sharpener. I GENTLY push the end of the belt into the pencil sharpener and turn.
4. To connect the ferrule to the leather belt I push the tapered end into the ferrule and turn in a clockwise direction. I can usually make about 3 complete turns before it get too hard to turn. This is the same method as describe on page 32 of the 1870 W&G brochure available on line from the Smithsonian Institution at
(http://www.sil.si.edu/DigitalCollect...0039/index.htm). It is much harder to describe than to do. The resulting connection is more than strong enough for a treadle machine, is very easy to remove and reattach, and gives a nice authentic addition to your W&G treadle.
#17
Mine came with a needle and I've heard mixed reviews about the needle it uses. Some swear only by the original W&G needle, which has a groove running through the entire needle. Others have found success with needles by organ. As for sizes I'm not terriably familiar with those yet. I got my W&G needles from Alex Susexx from sewalot. The other needles I got off eBay. I've pretty much been in the mod set that if I find W&G needles I'm going to buy them as I fin their the rarest bit of the machine. If you have difficulty let me know by sending me a pm!
#19
Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 2
I have purchased this wonderful little machine and am at present trying to restore , have to replace a couple of pieces, does any one know how to get the hand wheel off as am sending parts to be re chromed . they are a lovely little machine .
#20
Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Centralia, WA, USA
Posts: 4,890
Welcome aboard. Most likely the shiny parts are going to be nickel plated, not chrome. Nickel was widely used when the machines were made, chrome not so much. There should be some experts that can answer your questions around tomorrow or the next day.
Rodney
Rodney
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