Thread: Vintage Sewing Machine Shop.....Come on in and sit a spell

Originally Posted by Mizkaki

Miriam,

The top of the shank to the eye is the timing length and yes it is the same. But, the 15x1's longer tip will still be in the fabric (especially with thicker fabrics) when the feeddogs start moving and this will affect the tension and stitching. It can also hit the bobbin case. It is always better to use the correct needle. Please don't let anyone talk you into retiming the 206 series to take a regular needle. I know that this can be a controversial subject.

The tip could be shortened and resharpened, but I would not recommend it. It would be very difficult to make the reshaped tip just like the original such as shape, sharpness, in line with the long axis of the needle, etc.

Cathy

Oh, I get it - feed dogs... I keep learning so much from that machine. I'm liking that Singer 319 machine better the more I use it. I borrowed a motor and foot control from a 99 I turned into a hand crank. The bobbin case had a LOT of burrs and occasionally the thread wants to stay under when I pull up the bobbin thread. After it is up is is ok. I should turn it over and prod around some more. Right now it is set for FM. I need to bring home the table it was in so I can really sew something. That table has a door in front. You flip the door open all the way to help prop the table I guess. In the front of the table there is a hole to reach in for changing the bobbin - so much easier to reach through the hole. I still need the end screw for the needle holder but unless I change the needle it seems to work ok - go figure.

I agree. I think it is a finger guard. You can see that the lever for the presser foot is down, but if you watch one of the other Laga videos you will see a lady finish her sewing and pull the work out without lifting the lever. I think it is a finger guard to the left side of the needle and a fraction above the work. From what I can tell the material she is sewing (thin leather?) is firm and smooth, so so long as she is holding it down firmly it will not lift as the needle rises out of it with each stitch. It's free motion, but not quilting.

I found this video, along with Leah Day's videos, very useful before attempting FMQ on my 15K treadle. It showed the speed I needed to get the needle going at.

Seems like some machine do better than others... Some feet work better than others.... some days the carbon based unit works better than others... I'm still learning the FM and loving it. I haven't tried my name yet - just scribbling the center of some denim roses to decorate a couple tote bags. I need to work up the nerve.

Candace,

Good pictures. The shank length will not make any difference in sewing. Different brands have differences in the shank length. I agree that it does look like it can make a difference in fitting the spring on the needle.

Cathy

Originally Posted by Candace

The difference in the 206 x 13's size 12 and size 14 needles (and what was a bit tricky) is that the shank of the size 14 is a bit longer than the 12 and the needle length below the eye is also a smidge longer. Both of the above are 206 x 13's. The left is the 14, the right is the size 12. I was showing this to let you all see how the spring will fit a bit differently around the 14 needle.

Candace,

How about both.

Cathy

Originally Posted by Candace

I got your message, and yes I will bring the spring! Are you talking about the spring/needle combo or the spring attachment? I didn't know you had a White Rotary! Why am I not surprised:>

Laura,

Probably the carbon based unit. I really think that is what the problem is with my White.

Cathy

Originally Posted by nurseknitsLaura

Cathy mentioned that her White didn't like FMQ. I've tried to use my White for that, and it did not like it. At all. So it may be a white thing. May be the carbon based unit, though. (duck and run)