does anyone do this anymore?
03-16-2010, 10:16 AM
#21
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Illinois
Posts: 231
I dont sew either...only quilt ha ha ha but I ran across this yesterday and I think Im going to try it...see what happens...
http://sewmamasew.com/blog2/?p=791
so cute and sew easy...
http://sewmamasew.com/blog2/?p=791
so cute and sew easy...
03-16-2010, 12:30 PM
#22
Super Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: north east
Posts: 8,394
Originally Posted by QBeth
Originally Posted by Quilter7x
I make some of my own clothes, shirts, pants, skirts. I had a body scan done by www.unique.com and can buy patterns from them that fit my body. No need to make any adjustments on the pattern, just sew them up and they fit perfectly! Fit is the main reason I like making clothes for myself.
Anyone who is not the "average" size or shape should check this out.
http://www.uniquepatterns.com/
03-16-2010, 04:22 PM
#24
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: San Marino, CA
Posts: 198
I've sewed (some of) my own clothes for years, long before I ever quilted, and I always just used the goofy patterns from the fabric store (only when on sale!). Now my daughter is a costume design major in college and is learning all kinds of fancy tailoring and other skills. Over her spring break, she taught me how to make my own patterns on a dress form. I sketched a design of a top, mocked it up with ribbon pinned to the form, made a muslin pattern and transferred it to paper for cutting. I feel like Project Runway now!
03-16-2010, 06:13 PM
#25
Super Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: East Coast
Posts: 2,221
I'm surprised there isn't some kind of computer software that would let you put in your measurements, then show you a body form and let you create designs, see what they look like, and then print them out.
03-16-2010, 06:26 PM
#26
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: At the beach, drinking a mojito
Posts: 1,743
Originally Posted by middysmom
does anyone make their own clothes anymore i use to but haven't done it in a long time i was just wondering if anyone does this anymore and could give me some tips thanks dorothy
03-16-2010, 06:27 PM
#27
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: N61° 6.1839', W149° 52.0138'
Posts: 1,211
Watch the sales at JoAnn's, often the patterns are $.99. That would be for Simplicity, McCalls or Butterick. McCall's and Butterick are the same company now, and are better engineered than Simplicity. I use simplicity as a last resort. Personally, I like Vogue, the best engineered going. I haven't used the European patterns much, mostly because when they first came out, they didn't include the seam allowances and it drove me NUTS!
For an initial project, choose something with very few seams. Keep it simple. Use a cotton broadcloth, it is probably the easiest to sew on, not so many slipping issues as a satin or a loosly woven fabric.
Be sure to use a needle suited for the job. You probably don't want to use a tiny needle, you'll experience too much breakage, but by the same token, do use a great big one either. About an 75-80 would be good. Also, use a ball point needle for knits.
Back to the patterns. On the main pattern piece, you will find a number at the bust and/or hip. That number indicates the FINISHED garment measurement at that point, not your size. It gives you an indication of what the ease is, or how much extra fabric you will have to fit around you. You don't want the finished garment the same as you, it would fit like skin, only a lot less comfortable. Depending on the style, you want at least 2" of ease, and if the pattern is to be loose fitting, even more, or if it's a knit, perhaps a bit less, again, depending on the style. Be prepared for the pattern size to be bigger then your ready-to-wear size, sometimes as much as two or more sizes. It's just a pattern and you can sew a size 2 label in it later... :)
Be aware of the arrows, they indicate where the pattern peice is to be placed in conjunction with the grain of the fabric. If you have a fabric with a nap, or is otherwise a one way print, be sure all the arrows are pointing the same direction, this ensures your garment doesn't have "upside down" parts when it is all assembled.
I've probably told you too simple of things, but I really don't know how much experience you have. If you want more, please ask, I'm more than happy to share what I know. (and I really know a lot about clothing construction)
For an initial project, choose something with very few seams. Keep it simple. Use a cotton broadcloth, it is probably the easiest to sew on, not so many slipping issues as a satin or a loosly woven fabric.
Be sure to use a needle suited for the job. You probably don't want to use a tiny needle, you'll experience too much breakage, but by the same token, do use a great big one either. About an 75-80 would be good. Also, use a ball point needle for knits.
Back to the patterns. On the main pattern piece, you will find a number at the bust and/or hip. That number indicates the FINISHED garment measurement at that point, not your size. It gives you an indication of what the ease is, or how much extra fabric you will have to fit around you. You don't want the finished garment the same as you, it would fit like skin, only a lot less comfortable. Depending on the style, you want at least 2" of ease, and if the pattern is to be loose fitting, even more, or if it's a knit, perhaps a bit less, again, depending on the style. Be prepared for the pattern size to be bigger then your ready-to-wear size, sometimes as much as two or more sizes. It's just a pattern and you can sew a size 2 label in it later... :)
Be aware of the arrows, they indicate where the pattern peice is to be placed in conjunction with the grain of the fabric. If you have a fabric with a nap, or is otherwise a one way print, be sure all the arrows are pointing the same direction, this ensures your garment doesn't have "upside down" parts when it is all assembled.
I've probably told you too simple of things, but I really don't know how much experience you have. If you want more, please ask, I'm more than happy to share what I know. (and I really know a lot about clothing construction)
03-16-2010, 06:34 PM
#28
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Manitoba
Posts: 44
Originally Posted by middysmom
does anyone make their own clothes anymore i use to but haven't done it in a long time i was just wondering if anyone does this anymore and could give me some tips thanks dorothy
03-16-2010, 07:16 PM
#29
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: At the beach, drinking a mojito
Posts: 1,743
Originally Posted by MissTreated
Watch the sales at JoAnn's, often the patterns are $.99. That would be for Simplicity, McCalls or Butterick. McCall's and Butterick are the same company now, and are better engineered than Simplicity. I use simplicity as a last resort. Personally, I like Vogue, the best engineered going. I haven't used the European patterns much, mostly because when they first came out, they didn't include the seam allowances and it drove me NUTS!
For an initial project, choose something with very few seams. Keep it simple. Use a cotton broadcloth, it is probably the easiest to sew on, not so many slipping issues as a satin or a loosly woven fabric.
Be sure to use a needle suited for the job. You probably don't want to use a tiny needle, you'll experience too much breakage, but by the same token, do use a great big one either. About an 75-80 would be good. Also, use a ball point needle for knits.
Back to the patterns. On the main pattern piece, you will find a number at the bust and/or hip. That number indicates the FINISHED garment measurement at that point, not your size. It gives you an indication of what the ease is, or how much extra fabric you will have to fit around you. You don't want the finished garment the same as you, it would fit like skin, only a lot less comfortable. Depending on the style, you want at least 2" of ease, and if the pattern is to be loose fitting, even more, or if it's a knit, perhaps a bit less, again, depending on the style. Be prepared for the pattern size to be bigger then your ready-to-wear size, sometimes as much as two or more sizes. It's just a pattern and you can sew a size 2 label in it later... :)
Be aware of the arrows, they indicate where the pattern peice is to be placed in conjunction with the grain of the fabric. If you have a fabric with a nap, or is otherwise a one way print, be sure all the arrows are pointing the same direction, this ensures your garment doesn't have "upside down" parts when it is all assembled.
I've probably told you too simple of things, but I really don't know how much experience you have. If you want more, please ask, I'm more than happy to share what I know. (and I really know a lot about clothing construction)
For an initial project, choose something with very few seams. Keep it simple. Use a cotton broadcloth, it is probably the easiest to sew on, not so many slipping issues as a satin or a loosly woven fabric.
Be sure to use a needle suited for the job. You probably don't want to use a tiny needle, you'll experience too much breakage, but by the same token, do use a great big one either. About an 75-80 would be good. Also, use a ball point needle for knits.
Back to the patterns. On the main pattern piece, you will find a number at the bust and/or hip. That number indicates the FINISHED garment measurement at that point, not your size. It gives you an indication of what the ease is, or how much extra fabric you will have to fit around you. You don't want the finished garment the same as you, it would fit like skin, only a lot less comfortable. Depending on the style, you want at least 2" of ease, and if the pattern is to be loose fitting, even more, or if it's a knit, perhaps a bit less, again, depending on the style. Be prepared for the pattern size to be bigger then your ready-to-wear size, sometimes as much as two or more sizes. It's just a pattern and you can sew a size 2 label in it later... :)
Be aware of the arrows, they indicate where the pattern peice is to be placed in conjunction with the grain of the fabric. If you have a fabric with a nap, or is otherwise a one way print, be sure all the arrows are pointing the same direction, this ensures your garment doesn't have "upside down" parts when it is all assembled.
I've probably told you too simple of things, but I really don't know how much experience you have. If you want more, please ask, I'm more than happy to share what I know. (and I really know a lot about clothing construction)
03-17-2010, 03:51 AM
#30
Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Fayetteville, GA
Posts: 2,879
Originally Posted by Lisanne
I'm surprised there isn't some kind of computer software that would let you put in your measurements, then show you a body form and let you create designs, see what they look like, and then print them out.
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