Macybaby

Manalto - have not seen you for a while . . .

I worked in a custom drapery shop way back. We didn't use much that was a typical knit, but did a lot with sheers and lace that had quite a bit of stretch to it. We would always run them with the selvedge going up and down, so we'd square the ends using the selvedge as the guide.

we'd normally start off with hemming the bottom, then we'd "table" it to the correct length and cut and fold the top for the pleats, and mark them with a marker that could be seen under black light. Once that part was all done, we'd take them off and send them to the people sewing the pleats. Then they would be hung and checked for hanging proper. Regular drapes were done the same way, hemmed square with the selvedge and them tabled for the length.

I worked the sheer/lace table. Once in a while we'd get something with too much stretch in it to table correctly. In those cases we'd set the bar at the correct measure, and then climb up on to the table to secure the hem and gently smooth the fabric out before cutting it for the pleating. I worked second shift and often the day crew would leave the really nasty stuff for the night crew.

Manalto

Hey there, Cathy! Good to "see" you. I knew someone here would know - and I was hoping you'd chime in!

Thanks for the information. Instead of black-light-sensitive marker (because then I'd have to buy a black light), I usually use kids' washable markers (for quilting too); if you wet the marks before putting them in the washing machine, they will disappear. However, this fabric has a black background, so I'll just use tailor's chalk.

Instead of the traditional buckram for the pleats, I picked up some heavy black taffeta; I thought that buckram might be too robust, so I'm hoping the taffeta has enough substance to it to support the pleats. I may add some horizontal rows of stitching between pleats for support. On black, they'll be invisible. I'll tack the pleats top and bottom, as usual. This is for an extension on a 1918 Craftsman house. This part of the house is an addition and it's paneled in knotty pine. It has a distinct 1950s vibe. So I bought this fabric that looks like it's from that era; a lightweight black knit with overlapping "bubbles" of cream and shades of beige that are stitched into the fabric. I enjoy this type of experimenting, but was having trouble "reading" the print on the fabric. The repeat seems to be truly random, so I can't even cut across with repeat as a guide. Hence my squaring question.

As I mentioned above, this is an experiment in materials and methods I've never tried before. The #1 requirement is that people can't see into the house when the draperies are closed, so, as long as the fabric is still hanging, I'm good. It would be nice to do it right because the quirky 50s - looking fabric is growing on me, so I wouldn't mind living with it for a few years.

Thanks again for your advice. My take-away is that squaring with knits isn't absolutely critical. I'll do my best to get it right and take it from there.

Macybaby

the neat thing about using the black light to see the marks, the people that ran the machines to do the tacking had the longest, strongest fingernails I've ever seen. I wasn't much into sewing machines back then, but I do recall the shop had a lot of specialty machines specifically for making drapes. It was JC Penny's Custom drapery factory. The best part is we could buy the cutoff fabric for 65 cents a pound.

Another interesting item, we always worked from them hem. Even if we had something that would not hang properly, it was the top that was unsewn and reset. They had a rack to hang the drapes upside down and then they would mark where the top needed to adjusted. I guess that was the best way to end up with a nice even hem at the bottom.

Note - when I am sewing clothing with knits, I've never worried about getting it as square as I do with wovens. I line up the selvages and then smooth is so there are no rolls at the folded edge. This means moving one layer back or forth along the selvage to get them out. Usually I give one end to my spouse and I hold the other, and we let it drape from the fold. Then I'll pleat fold it at about a yard, making sure the selvages line up at the "fold" points. I did a maxi dress with 4 yards of fabric that way, and it hangs very nice. Got fabric to make a few more. Been playing with my new serger that has a cover stitch. So I used that for the hem and also sewing the elastic to the waistband.

bearisgray

I used to make knit t-shirts and underwear (Munsingwear had an outlet room)

Have you washed the fabric? Are you going to wash it? Sometimes the edges get "curly/rolled" when one does - but I like to know what it will be like after it has been washed and dried. Sometimes the fabric gets pulled out-of-kilter in processing just like the wovens one do and they need to be "relaxed" (in my opinion) before cutting.

Anyway - I like to fold the fabric along a rib - the equivalent of the lengthwise grain of a woven fabric. It seems like if I have it lined up vertically, the horizontal takes care of itself.

But - if the fabric is washable, I would strongly recommend washing it before cutting it. Then there will be no unpleasant surprises later.

How much stretch does this fabric have? As I said before, the amount of stretch in a knit fabric varies.
It can be zero stretch in both directions, a lot of stretch in one direction only, or a lot of stretch in "all" directions.

Do you know what the fiber content of your fabric?

I wonder if using woven taffeta ribbon would work for the headers? Then it would have finished edges, except for the cut ends.

I was (and am) finicky about grain lines - it is easier to fold a t-shirt that is cut "on-grain" than one that is "cut on the bias".

As far as making curtains and draperies - I am an amateur.

Do you have a rod that you could drape the fabric over to see how it hangs (and/or stretches) before you cut into it?

Manalto

This was going to be one of those rare times that I don't wash fabric beforehand. Usually I want, as you do, to have the results of laundering to have happened before construction. Being synthetic, I didn't expect the fabric to change with laundering, but I'll follow your recommendation and put it through the wash. Better safe than sorry, and it's always better to wash some of the factory chemicals away.

I'm with you on grainlines for both garments and curtains/draperies. It's worth the effort to have the fabric lie or hang properly.

I thought the bolt said 100% polyester, but it sure feels like it has Spandex or similar. It has stretch across the width, with a strong elastic response - not flimsy, it requires a good tug to engage the stretch. Lengthwise stretch is negligible.

I've hung a 2-yard piece over the rod for a week and have not observed any stretching. It behaves really nicely as draperies. I bought ample fabric so the folds will be generous. If I haven't said so before, I realize this is not a conventional material for draperies (at least I don't think it is - maybe some of the sleazier sets available in discount stores are knit?) but I think it may work.

I'm not sure what you mean by using taffeta ribbon. The taffeta I'm using as a stiffener for the pleats won't be visible. Are you suggesting adding ribbon as a visible detail?

Thanks, bear, for taking the time to ask about my project!

nativetexan

very good! I am glad you got the help you needed. sometimes it is difficult to clearly understand problems. We all live and learn. I'm still trying to learn everything I can. Show us when done please.

bearisgray

I think I would avoid using taffeta because it tends to ravel.

I made draperies out of muslin for out living room and used a product called :

Conso Perfect Pleat Pleater Tape , style #33050 - and it is 3.5 inches wide - it feels like Pellon - the box I have is maybe 30 years old, so the name has changed some - but if you do a search for that name, some items do come up.

It is made for three sewn in pleats, with slits punched out for the sewing lines and fold lines indicated - sort of a dotted line where it bends easily. The nice thing is that the pleats end up being evenly spaced and the same size.

The Conso product that I have (which is old!) had the indicators at these intervals:

3-13/16 inches blank (between pleats)
and the following intervals for the pleat folds:
3/4 (3/4 = 12/16)
11/16
11/16
11/16
11/16
3/4


One can also buy a header tape for removable hooks. I've used that also. It seemed a lot bulkier than the Conso product and the pleats looked "looser" - but it worked. I think if I was going to do drapes that had to be washed often, that is the way I would go.

bearisgray

If the fabric does not stretch vertically, I would be comfortable using it.

Ballpoint needles are frequently recommended for using on knit fabrics. They go "between" the threads instead of "through" them.

Do you have enough "extra" to do a "practice" wash on a small piece to see if it holds up okay? Some fabrics do not like to get wet. (Ask me how I know!)

To get back to your original question - I suppose one could "unknit" some of the fabric row by row - but one would have to start from a cut end to do that. (I have not tried it - I just sort of eyeball the fabrics I've used to see if they look "straight enough".)
I don't know how to "straighten" a knit like one can do on a woven by pulilng a thread or tearing.

I think I could "force" it to be square by lining up the edges and trying to follow a thread across.

If I was using a knitted stripe, that's what I would do. But - some fabrics have been treated with chemicals, so they stay the way I bought them. They have been permanently shaped. Not always perpendicularly!

Manalto

This fabric had better not be temperamental about being laundered! If polyester has one advantage in this world (I really dislike the stuff, in clothing especially), it's its ability to go through the washer and dryer unfazed. Poly that has to be dry-cleaned would be a deal-breaker for me. I'll put it all through the washer and hang it on the clothesline (I don't have a dryer here) and if it fails, then I'm out the cost of the fabric (it was cheap) and nothing more.

I asked about squaring initially because, for me, a must for draperies is a straight, even hem. I wonder if the nature of knit means that the seams will "lift" and the fabric sag in between. (Anticipating this, I picked up drapery weights for the seams, but not sure they'll be enough.) If so, I'll live with them until I replace them, with a lesson learned. The photographers from Architectural Digest have been mysteriously silent about coming to photograph my fabulous home, so that embarrassment bullet will have been dodged.

Thanks for the tip on the ball-point needle. (pun intended) I tried using a standard needle a few years ago on a knit (a repair, I think, since I haven't really worked with knits) and remember the huge difference in performance between it and ballpoint.

bearisgray

I think if the fabric has little vertical stretch that it would hang evenly - unintended scallops could be annoying.

Maybe be sure to use polyester thread instead of cotton or cotton covered polyester thread?