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cherylmae 11-28-2014 12:14 AM

Hi, am going to have to read thru all these. Just got on here to give a small tip mainly, as it is late. I just bought a brother pe 770 embroidery machine, has a 5x7 hoop and simple to use and I really love it....but changed bobbin thread..prewound and now it is eating my thread and towel. So read where I need to use the M size. Will look for those tomorrow and see if that takes care of the problem, as I have Christmas gifts to do. Anyway my tip is, I didn't have any cut away, so used...used dryer sheets...and worked perfectly fine.

Cari-in-Oly 11-28-2014 12:45 AM


Originally Posted by cherylmae (Post 6986802)
Hi, am going to have to read thru all these. Just got on here to give a small tip mainly, as it is late. I just bought a brother pe 770 embroidery machine, has a 5x7 hoop and simple to use and I really love it....but changed bobbin thread..prewound and now it is eating my thread and towel. So read where I need to use the M size. Will look for those tomorrow and see if that takes care of the problem, as I have Christmas gifts to do. Anyway my tip is, I didn't have any cut away, so used...used dryer sheets...and worked perfectly fine.

No, M bobbins are not what you need. Brother SA156, class 15, A style bobbins are what you want. I think M style bobbins are used in commercial machines. My Bff has the 770 and has always used pre wounds she buys on Amazon. I would look for some other cause of your problem.

Cari

Neesie 11-28-2014 09:13 PM


Originally Posted by cherylmae (Post 6986802)
Hi, am going to have to read thru all these. Just got on here to give a small tip mainly, as it is late. I just bought a brother pe 770 embroidery machine, has a 5x7 hoop and simple to use and I really love it....but changed bobbin thread..prewound and now it is eating my thread and towel. So read where I need to use the M size. Will look for those tomorrow and see if that takes care of the problem, as I have Christmas gifts to do. Anyway my tip is, I didn't have any cut away, so used...used dryer sheets...and worked perfectly fine.

I also recently bought the Brother PE 770. I've been mostly 'playing' with my machine but have noticed that the tighter my fabric is in the hoop, the better the stitches are. Make sure the dryer sheet isn't stretching any, as the stitches are made.

I use the plastic, class 15 bobbins. Several came with the machine and they're the same as the type I use for my Janome.

Cari-in-Oly 11-28-2014 10:07 PM


Originally Posted by Neesie (Post 6987744)
I also recently bought the Brother PE 770. I've been mostly 'playing' with my machine but have noticed that the tighter my fabric is in the hoop, the better the stitches are. Make sure the dryer sheet isn't stretching any, as the stitches are made.

I use the plastic, class 15 bobbins. Several came with the machine and they're the same as the type I use for my Janome.

There's a fine line between tight enough and too tight. If you hoop too tight, especially with a dense design, you run the risk of the stitches pulling at the weave and you end up with holes at the edge of your design. Hooping a thick item too tight also runs the risk of warping your hoop. Proper hooping takes practice, I've ruined more than one project and one hoop getting the hang of it. Lots of frustration at times but I knew it was my errors and not the machine. I finally found what works better for me most of the time with the 5x7 hoop is to hoop the stabilizer and float my project using spray adhesive(wovens) or sticky backed adhesive(knits) and a basting stitch.

Cari

Neesie 11-29-2014 08:30 AM


Originally Posted by Cari-in-Oly (Post 6987758)
There's a fine line between tight enough and too tight. If you hoop too tight, especially with a dense design, you run the risk of the stitches pulling at the weave and you end up with holes at the edge of your design. Hooping a thick item too tight also runs the risk of warping your hoop. Proper hooping takes practice, I've ruined more than one project and one hoop getting the hang of it. Lots of frustration at times but I knew it was my errors and not the machine. I finally found what works better for me most of the time with the 5x7 hoop is to hoop the stabilizer and float my project using spray adhesive(wovens) or sticky backed adhesive(knits) and a basting stitch.

Cari

Granted there is such a thing as being too tight. . . and in the light of day, I can see how my comment sounds as if I was advising stretching to the limit! :D Seriously, I shouldn't post, when half asleep! :p
What I meant was not to have any sagging of the fabric. Unfortunately, my brain falls asleep before my body does. :shock: :D

Cari-in-Oly 11-29-2014 02:10 PM


Originally Posted by Neesie (Post 6988085)
Granted there is such a thing as being too tight. . .
What I meant was not to have any sagging of the fabric. :D

Yes, that's a much better way to say it. I think more embroidery instructors should say "taught" instead of "tight". And I sincerely hope that when I write a long post like this I'm not sounding bossy or preachy. It's happened recently on another thread. My intention is only ever to help when I can because believe me, I needed so much help in learning about these machines when I first started and didn't get much.

Cari

Neesie 11-29-2014 02:53 PM


Originally Posted by Cari-in-Oly (Post 6988451)
Yes, that's a much better way to say it. I think more embroidery instructors should say "taught" instead of "tight". And I sincerely hope that when I write a long post like this I'm not sounding bossy or preachy. It's happened recently on another thread. My intention is only ever to help when I can because believe me, I needed so much help in learning about these machines when I first started and didn't get much.

Cari

Bossy or preachy? Hmmmmm. Hadn't thought of it that way but now that you mention it . . . . :D Nah, I'm just kidding! I re-read what I'd written and am glad you corrected my poor choice of words. :thumbup:

BTW, I don't offend easily, unless it's clear the person is trying to be offensive. You were clearly being helpful! :)

romanojg 11-30-2014 07:15 AM

I use lots of different threads on my Viking Diamond Deluxe, it has no problem with any. I even managed to get it to emb FSL using serger threads, I just changed my needle, doubled my WSS and slowed my machine down. Not all FSL designs need to be shinny, like things for my grandkids, etc. It works great once I figured it out. I rarely use my 4x4 hoop and have only started using my 5x7 since Viking came out with the magnetic one, its so easy. I will usually find several things to do at once and then use a large hoop.

Divokittysmom 11-30-2014 09:32 AM

I agree with the 'taut' not tight tip. I started in 1998 and the mantra was have that stablizer 'drum tight' in your hoop. Everyone has their own interpretation of drum tight! Then people began to get puckered embroideries. Turns out drum tight may have been too tight! Very interesting to see what has evolved over the years. I still am totally enamored and fascinated with my machine embroidering! What a miracle!! My grandma would be totally blown away by how far things have come since her beloved treadle!!

Cari-in-Oly 11-30-2014 01:38 PM


Originally Posted by romanojg (Post 6989238)
I use lots of different threads on my Viking Diamond Deluxe, it has no problem with any. I even managed to get it to emb FSL using serger threads, I just changed my needle, doubled my WSS and slowed my machine down. Not all FSL designs need to be shinny, like things for my grandkids, etc. It works great once I figured it out. I rarely use my 4x4 hoop and have only started using my 5x7 since Viking came out with the magnetic one, its so easy. I will usually find several things to do at once and then use a large hoop.

My Janomes aren't fussy about thread either. Most of my FSL is done with cotton thread on doubled Vilene. I love Vilene and use it a lot.

About the hoops, when I bought my MC200e it only comes with the 5x5 hoop. Right then I ordered the little 2x2 hoop. Dealer was surprised I wanted it, most people want to go larger. I said I'm thrifty(read-cheap) and if I'm doing a tiny design I want to use the least amount of stabilizer. It was a good call because I've never had a tiny design stitch out bad no matter how bad I hooped the fabric & stabilizer.

Cari


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