Anyone ever use Steam-a-seam
03-01-2009, 05:56 PM
#14
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: FL
Posts: 16,574
I LOVE it! Especially the 1/4 tape. It is fantastic for putting in zippers too!
You have to remove one side of the paper then press and trace your design backwards sometimes, depending on what you are doing.
I prefer steam a seam, it's the wonder under I have trouble with!
You have to remove one side of the paper then press and trace your design backwards sometimes, depending on what you are doing.
I prefer steam a seam, it's the wonder under I have trouble with!
03-01-2009, 08:46 PM
#16
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Western Wisconsin
Posts: 12,930
I have used Steam-a-Seam and really liked it -- no problems at all. One thing I liked about it is that the appliques were softer than with Wonder Under.
For those who are unfamiliar with it, SAS is a double-sided fusible that is re-positionable (sort of like Post-It notes). It doesn't create a permanent fuse until you iron it down.
Regarding the problem with the applique being backwards, here is one thought I have. With a two-sided fusible like this, there are two sides to the paper. I'm wondering if you traced on one side and then fused the *other* side to the fabric. With a one-sided fusible, there is only one side you can trace on and one side you fuse to the fabric. Not sure, but that's my guess.
I have heard that all of the fusibles can dry out over time, but it's possible to re-hydrate them. Don't know the details of how others have done this, but I would probably pile the individual sheets in a plastic bins and place a damp sponge in there, then seal with a cover and let sit for a week or so.
For those who are unfamiliar with it, SAS is a double-sided fusible that is re-positionable (sort of like Post-It notes). It doesn't create a permanent fuse until you iron it down.
Regarding the problem with the applique being backwards, here is one thought I have. With a two-sided fusible like this, there are two sides to the paper. I'm wondering if you traced on one side and then fused the *other* side to the fabric. With a one-sided fusible, there is only one side you can trace on and one side you fuse to the fabric. Not sure, but that's my guess.
I have heard that all of the fusibles can dry out over time, but it's possible to re-hydrate them. Don't know the details of how others have done this, but I would probably pile the individual sheets in a plastic bins and place a damp sponge in there, then seal with a cover and let sit for a week or so.
03-01-2009, 11:19 PM
#17
Super Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: So. California
Posts: 3,769
Have you tried re-ironing your pieces to see if the paper will come off easier when it's a bit warm? I've done my fusing & left the paper on for weeks before fusing onto my base & not had any problems.
I usually peel the paper back on a corner before I draw on it, just to make sure I'm writing on the paper that has the sticky on it - voice of experience after having to redraw a bunch of times! :lol:
I usually peel the paper back on a corner before I draw on it, just to make sure I'm writing on the paper that has the sticky on it - voice of experience after having to redraw a bunch of times! :lol:
03-02-2009, 12:38 AM
#18
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Halifax, W. Yorks, U.K.
Posts: 5,996
One tip I can share in removing the paper, is to use a pin in the centre and scrape it, this avoids you damaging the edge of the fabric trying to get it started :D
I use steam a seam alot and have had the odd time the paper is bonded too well, you probably ironed it too much, you only need to bond for about 15 seconds or so :D
If your pattern isn't symmetrical the easiest way is to flip your pattern over and use a dark felt pen to go over the pattern on the reverse, then trace from this side, you can hold up against the window to do this easily :D
With Steam a seam, you have to check which side of the paper has the glue on and make sure you trace on the 'top' piece, I sometimes remove the lower paper and 'stick' the glue side to the pattern if it is very intricate or big as it helps you accurately trace the design, just be careful when removing from pattern that you peel off the layer of glue with the top paper :roll:
I use steam a seam alot and have had the odd time the paper is bonded too well, you probably ironed it too much, you only need to bond for about 15 seconds or so :D
If your pattern isn't symmetrical the easiest way is to flip your pattern over and use a dark felt pen to go over the pattern on the reverse, then trace from this side, you can hold up against the window to do this easily :D
With Steam a seam, you have to check which side of the paper has the glue on and make sure you trace on the 'top' piece, I sometimes remove the lower paper and 'stick' the glue side to the pattern if it is very intricate or big as it helps you accurately trace the design, just be careful when removing from pattern that you peel off the layer of glue with the top paper :roll:
03-02-2009, 07:05 AM
#19
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Home!.. Why? Where are you?
Posts: 2,019
Before I knew any better, I would use steam a seam to help hold my binding down before sewing it for the final stitching. I don't do that anymore.
The wonder under likes to stick to me, my iron, ironing board.. so I don't use it anymore.
The wonder under likes to stick to me, my iron, ironing board.. so I don't use it anymore.
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