batting
#31
I would do an X in each block, that was my choice when I did my first lap quilt and it worked out very well. I got the "feel" for the quilting and any of my "boo boos" were well concealed. You never know when those quilt police are going to be out snooping around, but then who cares about them?
#32
Using a varigated thread would look nice if you make an X across each square, both the colored and the black.
If you want to use cotton batting, I suggest you pre-shrink it first. Cut a piece about 6" larger than you need. Put it in your machine with warm water and a couple drops of laundry detergent. Don't aggitate it. Let it soak until it is all wet, then turn the machine over to the spin. After it spins, carefully pull it out and shake gently to get the wrinkles out - then put it in the dryer for 10-15 minutes. Then spread it out if it isn't quite dry.
If you want to use cotton batting, I suggest you pre-shrink it first. Cut a piece about 6" larger than you need. Put it in your machine with warm water and a couple drops of laundry detergent. Don't aggitate it. Let it soak until it is all wet, then turn the machine over to the spin. After it spins, carefully pull it out and shake gently to get the wrinkles out - then put it in the dryer for 10-15 minutes. Then spread it out if it isn't quite dry.
#34
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Nawth o' Boston
Posts: 1,879
[quote=Rose L]When using cotton fabrics always use a cotton or wool batting. If the quilt is going to need washing fairly often then for sure use cotton. Polyester batting will completely destroy cotton fabric in 20-30 years. Learned this in my quilt restoration workshops.
Rose, I am curious about what you mean by "destroy cotton fabric". Does it have to do with the chemicals in the processed cotton interacting with the poly fiber? Does poly wear down the back of the cotton fabric like a piece of sandpaper? I can't think how this destruction by many washing might happen.
I'll be visiting the Lowell MA Quilt Museum later in the week for the first time in years (now I'm a quilter!) and I'd like more specifics so I can discuss it with the curator.
Thank you
SueSew
Rose, I am curious about what you mean by "destroy cotton fabric". Does it have to do with the chemicals in the processed cotton interacting with the poly fiber? Does poly wear down the back of the cotton fabric like a piece of sandpaper? I can't think how this destruction by many washing might happen.
I'll be visiting the Lowell MA Quilt Museum later in the week for the first time in years (now I'm a quilter!) and I'd like more specifics so I can discuss it with the curator.
Thank you
SueSew
#35
I have made lots and lots of quilts and I only use a high loft polyester batting. It is very lightweight and very warm. I don't make heirloom quilts and don't care if they last 25-30 years. I don't think any fabric would last that long either.
#36
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Port Lavaca, TX
Posts: 1,276
With polyester batting, it depends how often you wash it...
with frequent washing, the polyester gets a cobwebby texture. It is good for kids quilts that are not especially meant to last
Museums have examples of cotton textiles thousands of years old. soo...
But but the most important thing to consider is the thread.
100% cotton thread will last the longest.
Polyester is wonderful for projects that are for everyday use, like babybquilts, place mats, bags, table runners etc.
because it is flexible and strong.
Rayon will disintegrate after a number of years - depends on the use and climate.
MY advice, is never use invisible (clear) thread! because it oxidises = reacts with the air, and becomes brittle and breaks up in a few years.
I know, appliques? yes, if you iron them on with fusible backing, the fusible glue, will crisp up in a few years too.
So it depends on the purpose.
Plastic doesn't age as well as natural cotton.
I would never use invisible clear thread on a Baltimore Album or other heirloom quilt. Now, if you already have, those quilts are kept wrapped up and stored most of the time, which slows down the oxidation/ disintegration process a lot. probably years...
How do I know this?
I'm a retired museum director...and asked the Smithsonian textile curators.
with frequent washing, the polyester gets a cobwebby texture. It is good for kids quilts that are not especially meant to last
Museums have examples of cotton textiles thousands of years old. soo...
But but the most important thing to consider is the thread.
100% cotton thread will last the longest.
Polyester is wonderful for projects that are for everyday use, like babybquilts, place mats, bags, table runners etc.
because it is flexible and strong.
Rayon will disintegrate after a number of years - depends on the use and climate.
MY advice, is never use invisible (clear) thread! because it oxidises = reacts with the air, and becomes brittle and breaks up in a few years.
I know, appliques? yes, if you iron them on with fusible backing, the fusible glue, will crisp up in a few years too.
So it depends on the purpose.
Plastic doesn't age as well as natural cotton.
I would never use invisible clear thread on a Baltimore Album or other heirloom quilt. Now, if you already have, those quilts are kept wrapped up and stored most of the time, which slows down the oxidation/ disintegration process a lot. probably years...
How do I know this?
I'm a retired museum director...and asked the Smithsonian textile curators.
#38
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Northern Minnesota
Posts: 201
I really find it hard to believe because I have quilts that I know are over 20 and I am pretty sure over 30 and they so no sign of being "distroyed" and mom used polyester I am pretty sure forever!!! I love polyester but I just tie
Originally Posted by Rose L
When using cotton fabrics always use a cotton or wool batting. If the quilt is going to need washing fairly often then for sure use cotton. Polyester batting will completely destroy cotton fabric in 20-30 years. Learned this in my quilt restoration workshops.
I would add a border around the whole quilt. It doesn't need to be a wide border just something to separate the blocks from the binding. Any color you think would look nice with the general look of the quilt a matching backing would be nice to use with the binding. What about quilting a circle in the space of four adjoining blocks, give it a little bit of curve so it has more movement than just angular lines. Use string and a chalk marker to make the circles or trace around something that fits inside the four blocks. Just an idea to kick around.
I would add a border around the whole quilt. It doesn't need to be a wide border just something to separate the blocks from the binding. Any color you think would look nice with the general look of the quilt a matching backing would be nice to use with the binding. What about quilting a circle in the space of four adjoining blocks, give it a little bit of curve so it has more movement than just angular lines. Use string and a chalk marker to make the circles or trace around something that fits inside the four blocks. Just an idea to kick around.
#39
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 554
Originally Posted by hlponyfarm
after looking at the quilt, I wont be able to do the stitchin teh ditch as my blocks arent perfectly matched. any ideas on how to quilt this with out making my mistakes more prominant? JoAnn
#40
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 554
Originally Posted by hlponyfarm
You are all such a great help! thank you. My sisters bday is the end of March so I have a little bit of time to get this finished. the big chore is actually driving to JoAnns. Its about 20 miles of bad traffic to get there and you really have to be in the mood to go. LOL I have to actually bribe my hubby to go with me. usually with food. ;) JoAnn
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