Buying fabric at Walmart, Joann's, etc.....
#31
I have quilt shop fabric, Joann fabric and Walmart fabric. So far all of my quilts have turned out well regardless of where I bought it and how much I have spent. Some of the Walmart fabric has actually been nicer than the LQS.
#32
Super Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Here not there
Posts: 1,449
Same here
Originally Posted by AUQuilter
You will get different answers from everyone! I prefer to touch the fabrics and feel the thickness and hopefully softness - maybe some of you also do the same. I have never touched a Blank Quilting fabric I didn't like. Other brands at LQS - I won't mention names- often feel the same as those at Joann's, WM... So it is up to you- my thought is- it is your quilt and do it your way!
#33
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Maryland
Posts: 349
I have to apologize. The batting was Quilters Dream with the light blue paper label inside the bag. I used W&N for a pillow I made. My mistake.
I am leary about shopping on line. I don't like to buy things I can't see. I'm way tooo picky and if I don't like what I've purchased there the hassel of sending it back, postage fees, etc etc etc..
I'll have to take a day trip up to the Amish area of Pennsylvania. It's probably about an hour away but can be a nice day trip. I'm learning a whole bunch about fabric just here on the QB.
Thanks for all of your information.
Babs
I am leary about shopping on line. I don't like to buy things I can't see. I'm way tooo picky and if I don't like what I've purchased there the hassel of sending it back, postage fees, etc etc etc..
I'll have to take a day trip up to the Amish area of Pennsylvania. It's probably about an hour away but can be a nice day trip. I'm learning a whole bunch about fabric just here on the QB.
Thanks for all of your information.
Babs
Originally Posted by feline fanatic
I prefer LQS, Amish shops or mennonite shops and shopping on line. On line I have never been disappointed in quality except once with some closeout stuff I got from Connecting Threads. I liked the thickness of the fab but the printing process they used on it was heavy, almost rubbery. But I only paid around $3 a yard. It will get used somewhere. I have been disappointed in that the color wasn't exactly what I thought it was on a few occasions. Again the fabric will eventually be used, just not for the project intended.
I have been burned by Jo Anne fabric so will not buy fabric there. It faded horribly and did not last and this is in i a quilt that doesn't get heavy use. I will buy notions and such from there and batting but not fabric.
When I spend years working on a hand quilted quilt I DO want it to last so I will buy the best I can afford and shy away from the big box stores like Walmart, Hobby Lobby and JoAnnes.
Batting is something else you should consider. If you are handquilting I would stay away from W&N or W&W. Very difficult to needle. If you want 100% cotton you can try Mountain Mist, Hobbs, or Quilters Dream but QD cotton batting is very very low loft. Your BAQ sounds like it should have wool batting! Dreamy to handquilt and heirloom quality.
I have been burned by Jo Anne fabric so will not buy fabric there. It faded horribly and did not last and this is in i a quilt that doesn't get heavy use. I will buy notions and such from there and batting but not fabric.
When I spend years working on a hand quilted quilt I DO want it to last so I will buy the best I can afford and shy away from the big box stores like Walmart, Hobby Lobby and JoAnnes.
Batting is something else you should consider. If you are handquilting I would stay away from W&N or W&W. Very difficult to needle. If you want 100% cotton you can try Mountain Mist, Hobbs, or Quilters Dream but QD cotton batting is very very low loft. Your BAQ sounds like it should have wool batting! Dreamy to handquilt and heirloom quality.
#34
Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Maine-ly Florida
Posts: 3,917
Originally Posted by DogHouseMom
Because you are doing hand applique I think it will be important to choose fabric with a close weave. A fabric that has a looser weave is going to ravel more and will make needle turning difficult if not impossible (especially if your new at it). The looser the thread count the more difficult it will be to get good straight lines and make nice smooth curves.
You should be able to see and feel the difference between a tighter weave and a looser weave. Some extreme examples are a batik (tightly woven) and a homespun (loosely woven). Or to use your bed sheet example of feel and look - the difference between a 200 thread count and a 600 or 800 thread count.
I CAN feel and see the difference in some of the Joanne's Fat Quarters I recently purchased for a small wall hanging project. I would not ever consider using these for applique.
Batiks are typically a tighter thread weave, and batiks are dyed. Calico's and other fabrics are screen printed. The main difference in dye vs screen print is that dyed fabrics the fabric is either in a dye bath or liberally painted on and the color goes through the whole cloth.
Screen prints use a series of die plates (large rubber or silicon material - like a rubber stamp), there is one for each color used. The fabric moves through a series of these die plates and is imprinted with ink on the die plate. The color "sits" on the top of the fabric, it doesn't go through.
And then there are homespuns, mostly plaids, and these are made by weaving different color threads - so like a batik the color is all the way through. These may still be quality fabrics, using quality cotton - but the nature of the weave lends them to a limited number of uses - typically not applique, but they are used quite often in pieced quilts. Although come to think of it, I have felt some homespuns that are a nice tight weave that I would use in applique.
The quality of the fabric has more to do with the type of greige (raw material) used, and the process used to weave it.
Some fabric, a lot of the Asian prints come to mind, are a thicker greige/weave, a bit stiffer to the hand. I personally wouldn't want to needle turn one of these.
If I were going to take the time to hand applique a Baltimore Album I would use the best quality I could find.
I'd start by visiting a LQS - finger all the different type of fabric. Purchase what you think feels like good quality, nicely woven, soft fabric. Buy a fat quarter of one batik and one screen print. Then go to Joanne's and do the same thing. Take them home and make small tests blocks of each of them - just cut a simple applique of a heart (has curves, straight lines, and points) and hand applique it to muslin (or the other half of one of the fat quarters) and see how each of the fabrics behave. You'll know more by working with each of them than you will from any of us talking about it.
And I have to add ... new to quilting and wanting to do Balitmore Album. You go girl!!!
You should be able to see and feel the difference between a tighter weave and a looser weave. Some extreme examples are a batik (tightly woven) and a homespun (loosely woven). Or to use your bed sheet example of feel and look - the difference between a 200 thread count and a 600 or 800 thread count.
I CAN feel and see the difference in some of the Joanne's Fat Quarters I recently purchased for a small wall hanging project. I would not ever consider using these for applique.
Batiks are typically a tighter thread weave, and batiks are dyed. Calico's and other fabrics are screen printed. The main difference in dye vs screen print is that dyed fabrics the fabric is either in a dye bath or liberally painted on and the color goes through the whole cloth.
Screen prints use a series of die plates (large rubber or silicon material - like a rubber stamp), there is one for each color used. The fabric moves through a series of these die plates and is imprinted with ink on the die plate. The color "sits" on the top of the fabric, it doesn't go through.
And then there are homespuns, mostly plaids, and these are made by weaving different color threads - so like a batik the color is all the way through. These may still be quality fabrics, using quality cotton - but the nature of the weave lends them to a limited number of uses - typically not applique, but they are used quite often in pieced quilts. Although come to think of it, I have felt some homespuns that are a nice tight weave that I would use in applique.
The quality of the fabric has more to do with the type of greige (raw material) used, and the process used to weave it.
Some fabric, a lot of the Asian prints come to mind, are a thicker greige/weave, a bit stiffer to the hand. I personally wouldn't want to needle turn one of these.
If I were going to take the time to hand applique a Baltimore Album I would use the best quality I could find.
I'd start by visiting a LQS - finger all the different type of fabric. Purchase what you think feels like good quality, nicely woven, soft fabric. Buy a fat quarter of one batik and one screen print. Then go to Joanne's and do the same thing. Take them home and make small tests blocks of each of them - just cut a simple applique of a heart (has curves, straight lines, and points) and hand applique it to muslin (or the other half of one of the fat quarters) and see how each of the fabrics behave. You'll know more by working with each of them than you will from any of us talking about it.
And I have to add ... new to quilting and wanting to do Balitmore Album. You go girl!!!
This is really excellent advice. Check for colorfastness, as well. You want to advoid a broken heart if your fabric runs after you've put all that work into it.
#35
Google Goddess
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Central Indiana (USA)
Posts: 30,181
great information, thank you
Originally Posted by DogHouseMom
Because you are doing hand applique I think it will be important to choose fabric with a close weave. A fabric that has a looser weave is going to ravel more and will make needle turning difficult if not impossible (especially if your new at it). The looser the thread count the more difficult it will be to get good straight lines and make nice smooth curves.
You should be able to see and feel the difference between a tighter weave and a looser weave. Some extreme examples are a batik (tightly woven) and a homespun (loosely woven). Or to use your bed sheet example of feel and look - the difference between a 200 thread count and a 600 or 800 thread count.
I CAN feel and see the difference in some of the Joanne's Fat Quarters I recently purchased for a small wall hanging project. I would not ever consider using these for applique.
Batiks are typically a tighter thread weave, and batiks are dyed. Calico's and other fabrics are screen printed. The main difference in dye vs screen print is that dyed fabrics the fabric is either in a dye bath or liberally painted on and the color goes through the whole cloth.
Screen prints use a series of die plates (large rubber or silicon material - like a rubber stamp), there is one for each color used. The fabric moves through a series of these die plates and is imprinted with ink on the die plate. The color "sits" on the top of the fabric, it doesn't go through.
And then there are homespuns, mostly plaids, and these are made by weaving different color threads - so like a batik the color is all the way through. These may still be quality fabrics, using quality cotton - but the nature of the weave lends them to a limited number of uses - typically not applique, but they are used quite often in pieced quilts. Although come to think of it, I have felt some homespuns that are a nice tight weave that I would use in applique.
The quality of the fabric has more to do with the type of greige (raw material) used, and the process used to weave it.
Some fabric, a lot of the Asian prints come to mind, are a thicker greige/weave, a bit stiffer to the hand. I personally wouldn't want to needle turn one of these.
If I were going to take the time to hand applique a Baltimore Album I would use the best quality I could find.
I'd start by visiting a LQS - finger all the different type of fabric. Purchase what you think feels like good quality, nicely woven, soft fabric. Buy a fat quarter of one batik and one screen print. Then go to Joanne's and do the same thing. Take them home and make small tests blocks of each of them - just cut a simple applique of a heart (has curves, straight lines, and points) and hand applique it to muslin (or the other half of one of the fat quarters) and see how each of the fabrics behave. You'll know more by working with each of them than you will from any of us talking about it.
And I have to add ... new to quilting and wanting to do Balitmore Album. You go girl!!!
You should be able to see and feel the difference between a tighter weave and a looser weave. Some extreme examples are a batik (tightly woven) and a homespun (loosely woven). Or to use your bed sheet example of feel and look - the difference between a 200 thread count and a 600 or 800 thread count.
I CAN feel and see the difference in some of the Joanne's Fat Quarters I recently purchased for a small wall hanging project. I would not ever consider using these for applique.
Batiks are typically a tighter thread weave, and batiks are dyed. Calico's and other fabrics are screen printed. The main difference in dye vs screen print is that dyed fabrics the fabric is either in a dye bath or liberally painted on and the color goes through the whole cloth.
Screen prints use a series of die plates (large rubber or silicon material - like a rubber stamp), there is one for each color used. The fabric moves through a series of these die plates and is imprinted with ink on the die plate. The color "sits" on the top of the fabric, it doesn't go through.
And then there are homespuns, mostly plaids, and these are made by weaving different color threads - so like a batik the color is all the way through. These may still be quality fabrics, using quality cotton - but the nature of the weave lends them to a limited number of uses - typically not applique, but they are used quite often in pieced quilts. Although come to think of it, I have felt some homespuns that are a nice tight weave that I would use in applique.
The quality of the fabric has more to do with the type of greige (raw material) used, and the process used to weave it.
Some fabric, a lot of the Asian prints come to mind, are a thicker greige/weave, a bit stiffer to the hand. I personally wouldn't want to needle turn one of these.
If I were going to take the time to hand applique a Baltimore Album I would use the best quality I could find.
I'd start by visiting a LQS - finger all the different type of fabric. Purchase what you think feels like good quality, nicely woven, soft fabric. Buy a fat quarter of one batik and one screen print. Then go to Joanne's and do the same thing. Take them home and make small tests blocks of each of them - just cut a simple applique of a heart (has curves, straight lines, and points) and hand applique it to muslin (or the other half of one of the fat quarters) and see how each of the fabrics behave. You'll know more by working with each of them than you will from any of us talking about it.
And I have to add ... new to quilting and wanting to do Balitmore Album. You go girl!!!
#36
Banned
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Enid, OK
Posts: 8,273
Originally Posted by grammy Dwynn
You will get many opinions as to where to shop.
When I started I also did not understand 'the difference', but with years of 'feeling' and studying, yes, I have become a fabric 'snob'.
Here is a article about making fabrics, to help you understand (a little).
http://quiltbug.com/articles/choosing-fabric.htm
Now, I am not saying that everyone should shop 'only' at LQS. Funds play a big part in what one can afford, and even convenience/location play into that decision.
IMHO if you are thinking of doing hand applique, I would go with the batiks. They fray the least when doing applique (my avatar is batik and reversed appliqued).
good luck on your project(s)
When I started I also did not understand 'the difference', but with years of 'feeling' and studying, yes, I have become a fabric 'snob'.
Here is a article about making fabrics, to help you understand (a little).
http://quiltbug.com/articles/choosing-fabric.htm
Now, I am not saying that everyone should shop 'only' at LQS. Funds play a big part in what one can afford, and even convenience/location play into that decision.
IMHO if you are thinking of doing hand applique, I would go with the batiks. They fray the least when doing applique (my avatar is batik and reversed appliqued).
good luck on your project(s)
having said that, I am making myself a jacket with silks that are the BEST I could find! Might have to do a matching Hand bag as well!
#37
Power Poster
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Southern California
Posts: 19,131
Originally Posted by DogHouseMom
Because you are doing hand applique I think it will be important to choose fabric with a close weave. A fabric that has a looser weave is going to ravel more and will make needle turning difficult if not impossible (especially if your new at it). The looser the thread count the more difficult it will be to get good straight lines and make nice smooth curves.
You should be able to see and feel the difference between a tighter weave and a looser weave. Some extreme examples are a batik (tightly woven) and a homespun (loosely woven). Or to use your bed sheet example of feel and look - the difference between a 200 thread count and a 600 or 800 thread count.
I CAN feel and see the difference in some of the Joanne's Fat Quarters I recently purchased for a small wall hanging project. I would not ever consider using these for applique.
Batiks are typically a tighter thread weave, and batiks are dyed. Calico's and other fabrics are screen printed. The main difference in dye vs screen print is that dyed fabrics the fabric is either in a dye bath or liberally painted on and the color goes through the whole cloth.
Screen prints use a series of die plates (large rubber or silicon material - like a rubber stamp), there is one for each color used. The fabric moves through a series of these die plates and is imprinted with ink on the die plate. The color "sits" on the top of the fabric, it doesn't go through.
And then there are homespuns, mostly plaids, and these are made by weaving different color threads - so like a batik the color is all the way through. These may still be quality fabrics, using quality cotton - but the nature of the weave lends them to a limited number of uses - typically not applique, but they are used quite often in pieced quilts. Although come to think of it, I have felt some homespuns that are a nice tight weave that I would use in applique.
The quality of the fabric has more to do with the type of greige (raw material) used, and the process used to weave it.
Some fabric, a lot of the Asian prints come to mind, are a thicker greige/weave, a bit stiffer to the hand. I personally wouldn't want to needle turn one of these.
If I were going to take the time to hand applique a Baltimore Album I would use the best quality I could find.
I'd start by visiting a LQS - finger all the different type of fabric. Purchase what you think feels like good quality, nicely woven, soft fabric. Buy a fat quarter of one batik and one screen print. Then go to Joanne's and do the same thing. Take them home and make small tests blocks of each of them - just cut a simple applique of a heart (has curves, straight lines, and points) and hand applique it to muslin (or the other half of one of the fat quarters) and see how each of the fabrics behave. You'll know more by working with each of them than you will from any of us talking about it.
And I have to add ... new to quilting and wanting to do Balitmore Album. You go girl!!!
You should be able to see and feel the difference between a tighter weave and a looser weave. Some extreme examples are a batik (tightly woven) and a homespun (loosely woven). Or to use your bed sheet example of feel and look - the difference between a 200 thread count and a 600 or 800 thread count.
I CAN feel and see the difference in some of the Joanne's Fat Quarters I recently purchased for a small wall hanging project. I would not ever consider using these for applique.
Batiks are typically a tighter thread weave, and batiks are dyed. Calico's and other fabrics are screen printed. The main difference in dye vs screen print is that dyed fabrics the fabric is either in a dye bath or liberally painted on and the color goes through the whole cloth.
Screen prints use a series of die plates (large rubber or silicon material - like a rubber stamp), there is one for each color used. The fabric moves through a series of these die plates and is imprinted with ink on the die plate. The color "sits" on the top of the fabric, it doesn't go through.
And then there are homespuns, mostly plaids, and these are made by weaving different color threads - so like a batik the color is all the way through. These may still be quality fabrics, using quality cotton - but the nature of the weave lends them to a limited number of uses - typically not applique, but they are used quite often in pieced quilts. Although come to think of it, I have felt some homespuns that are a nice tight weave that I would use in applique.
The quality of the fabric has more to do with the type of greige (raw material) used, and the process used to weave it.
Some fabric, a lot of the Asian prints come to mind, are a thicker greige/weave, a bit stiffer to the hand. I personally wouldn't want to needle turn one of these.
If I were going to take the time to hand applique a Baltimore Album I would use the best quality I could find.
I'd start by visiting a LQS - finger all the different type of fabric. Purchase what you think feels like good quality, nicely woven, soft fabric. Buy a fat quarter of one batik and one screen print. Then go to Joanne's and do the same thing. Take them home and make small tests blocks of each of them - just cut a simple applique of a heart (has curves, straight lines, and points) and hand applique it to muslin (or the other half of one of the fat quarters) and see how each of the fabrics behave. You'll know more by working with each of them than you will from any of us talking about it.
And I have to add ... new to quilting and wanting to do Balitmore Album. You go girl!!!
#39
Power Poster
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Northern Michigan
Posts: 12,861
it is always recommended for any hobby/work- to use the best you can afford- so if walmart/joannes is what fits your budget- well that's just fine-
as you can afford better quality- buy better quality.
after a while you will be able to tell mostly by feel- a better quality- and quality varies greatly- even at walmart and joannes- some fabrics are.... cheap (and not necessarily price wise) and some are very luxurious---and still modestly priced.
some of us started sewing clothes 40+ years ago- and have had lots of experience with fabrics-
everyone has their own---preferences.
if you find fabrics that (to you) are nice- it does not matter where they come from
or what you paid for them
a few things---
homespuns and flannels are a looser weave- shrink more
calico's are just printed cotton fabrics- some places call them calico's some just call them printed cotton
batiks tend to be a tighter weaved fabric- might be more difficult to hand stitch- are hand dyed- tend to run more than other fabrics (many come from indonisia, bali, other island countries- tend to be more expensive- do not shrink much (because of the tighter weave.
kona cottons are solids, have been around for many years- are very good quality solids (which can be very hard to find) amish quilts are made with solid fabrics=
moda is just a fabric company- along with Hoffman, Michael Miller, Patrick Loose, Thimbleberries---and thousands others.
buy what you like- and what you can afford- and don't worry about what door you walk through- you can find good fabric at the salvation army stores too---no one needs to know if it came from the quilt shop- the walmart- or the goodwill- it is your business
where ever you go that has fabric----TOUCH IT! CARESS IT! after a while you will be able to tell by feel and by looking what is good quality and what is not.
as you can afford better quality- buy better quality.
after a while you will be able to tell mostly by feel- a better quality- and quality varies greatly- even at walmart and joannes- some fabrics are.... cheap (and not necessarily price wise) and some are very luxurious---and still modestly priced.
some of us started sewing clothes 40+ years ago- and have had lots of experience with fabrics-
everyone has their own---preferences.
if you find fabrics that (to you) are nice- it does not matter where they come from
or what you paid for them
a few things---
homespuns and flannels are a looser weave- shrink more
calico's are just printed cotton fabrics- some places call them calico's some just call them printed cotton
batiks tend to be a tighter weaved fabric- might be more difficult to hand stitch- are hand dyed- tend to run more than other fabrics (many come from indonisia, bali, other island countries- tend to be more expensive- do not shrink much (because of the tighter weave.
kona cottons are solids, have been around for many years- are very good quality solids (which can be very hard to find) amish quilts are made with solid fabrics=
moda is just a fabric company- along with Hoffman, Michael Miller, Patrick Loose, Thimbleberries---and thousands others.
buy what you like- and what you can afford- and don't worry about what door you walk through- you can find good fabric at the salvation army stores too---no one needs to know if it came from the quilt shop- the walmart- or the goodwill- it is your business
where ever you go that has fabric----TOUCH IT! CARESS IT! after a while you will be able to tell by feel and by looking what is good quality and what is not.
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