Buying fabric at Walmart, Joann's, etc.....
08-25-2011, 07:53 AM
#81
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Nevada
Posts: 6,958
There can be a difference in grade of the fabrics between the LQS and the chains. There are several runs made of fabrics and the quality can vary.
However, I just learned from a LA teacher/dealer in a LA class that the Kona Cotton Solids are exactly the same product in both types of stores.
Here is a link to an article and see the last paragraph: http://ezinearticles.com/?What-Makes...ic?&id=2225860
However, I just learned from a LA teacher/dealer in a LA class that the Kona Cotton Solids are exactly the same product in both types of stores.
Here is a link to an article and see the last paragraph: http://ezinearticles.com/?What-Makes...ic?&id=2225860
08-25-2011, 07:55 AM
#82
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Ft. Myers, Fl
Posts: 582
Originally Posted by karenpatrick
My avatar is a quilt I made for the daughter of a friend as a graduation present. the navy and cream homespun in the sashing came from Joann's and I paid $15.00/yd for it. Over the weekend I saw the same fabric at Walmart for $3.99/yd. I have no explanation for this but I really felt robbed by Joann's after I saw the same thing at WM for so much less. I guess you just have to shop at lots of places and handle everything. You can't go by price.
I buy flannel to make dog beds for my girls and for friend's dogs, and you can certainly feel the difference in the materials as soon as you pick them up. I am really learning a lot on this board....so glad I found it.
08-25-2011, 08:15 AM
#83
Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,410
Originally Posted by DogHouseMom
Because you are doing hand applique I think it will be important to choose fabric with a close weave. A fabric that has a looser weave is going to ravel more and will make needle turning difficult if not impossible (especially if your new at it). The looser the thread count the more difficult it will be to get good straight lines and make nice smooth curves.
You should be able to see and feel the difference between a tighter weave and a looser weave. Some extreme examples are a batik (tightly woven) and a homespun (loosely woven). Or to use your bed sheet example of feel and look - the difference between a 200 thread count and a 600 or 800 thread count.
I CAN feel and see the difference in some of the Joanne's Fat Quarters I recently purchased for a small wall hanging project. I would not ever consider using these for applique.
Batiks are typically a tighter thread weave, and batiks are dyed. Calico's and other fabrics are screen printed. The main difference in dye vs screen print is that dyed fabrics the fabric is either in a dye bath or liberally painted on and the color goes through the whole cloth.
Screen prints use a series of die plates (large rubber or silicon material - like a rubber stamp), there is one for each color used. The fabric moves through a series of these die plates and is imprinted with ink on the die plate. The color "sits" on the top of the fabric, it doesn't go through.
And then there are homespuns, mostly plaids, and these are made by weaving different color threads - so like a batik the color is all the way through. These may still be quality fabrics, using quality cotton - but the nature of the weave lends them to a limited number of uses - typically not applique, but they are used quite often in pieced quilts. Although come to think of it, I have felt some homespuns that are a nice tight weave that I would use in applique.
The quality of the fabric has more to do with the type of greige (raw material) used, and the process used to weave it.
Some fabric, a lot of the Asian prints come to mind, are a thicker greige/weave, a bit stiffer to the hand. I personally wouldn't want to needle turn one of these.
If I were going to take the time to hand applique a Baltimore Album I would use the best quality I could find.
I'd start by visiting a LQS - finger all the different type of fabric. Purchase what you think feels like good quality, nicely woven, soft fabric. Buy a fat quarter of one batik and one screen print. Then go to Joanne's and do the same thing. Take them home and make small tests blocks of each of them - just cut a simple applique of a heart (has curves, straight lines, and points) and hand applique it to muslin (or the other half of one of the fat quarters) and see how each of the fabrics behave. You'll know more by working with each of them than you will from any of us talking about it.
And I have to add ... new to quilting and wanting to do Balitmore Album. You go girl!!!
You should be able to see and feel the difference between a tighter weave and a looser weave. Some extreme examples are a batik (tightly woven) and a homespun (loosely woven). Or to use your bed sheet example of feel and look - the difference between a 200 thread count and a 600 or 800 thread count.
I CAN feel and see the difference in some of the Joanne's Fat Quarters I recently purchased for a small wall hanging project. I would not ever consider using these for applique.
Batiks are typically a tighter thread weave, and batiks are dyed. Calico's and other fabrics are screen printed. The main difference in dye vs screen print is that dyed fabrics the fabric is either in a dye bath or liberally painted on and the color goes through the whole cloth.
Screen prints use a series of die plates (large rubber or silicon material - like a rubber stamp), there is one for each color used. The fabric moves through a series of these die plates and is imprinted with ink on the die plate. The color "sits" on the top of the fabric, it doesn't go through.
And then there are homespuns, mostly plaids, and these are made by weaving different color threads - so like a batik the color is all the way through. These may still be quality fabrics, using quality cotton - but the nature of the weave lends them to a limited number of uses - typically not applique, but they are used quite often in pieced quilts. Although come to think of it, I have felt some homespuns that are a nice tight weave that I would use in applique.
The quality of the fabric has more to do with the type of greige (raw material) used, and the process used to weave it.
Some fabric, a lot of the Asian prints come to mind, are a thicker greige/weave, a bit stiffer to the hand. I personally wouldn't want to needle turn one of these.
If I were going to take the time to hand applique a Baltimore Album I would use the best quality I could find.
I'd start by visiting a LQS - finger all the different type of fabric. Purchase what you think feels like good quality, nicely woven, soft fabric. Buy a fat quarter of one batik and one screen print. Then go to Joanne's and do the same thing. Take them home and make small tests blocks of each of them - just cut a simple applique of a heart (has curves, straight lines, and points) and hand applique it to muslin (or the other half of one of the fat quarters) and see how each of the fabrics behave. You'll know more by working with each of them than you will from any of us talking about it.
And I have to add ... new to quilting and wanting to do Balitmore Album. You go girl!!!
08-25-2011, 08:18 AM
#84
Super Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,162
Until recently I purchased only LQS fabric for my most important quilts. But with the rising cost of fabric everywhere I have had to modify my rules. Even Joann's is getting a little pricier. Now I sometimes purchase, very carefully, at Joann's and Hobby Lobby. I still won't buy any fabric that is thin or rough feeling. With all the work we put into our quilts, we want them to last as long as possible.
I read recently that the cost of cotton is going down since the weather has been very good where it's grown. I don't know how true that is, but I don't see the cost of cotton fabric going down yet. Maybe it never will.
:-(
I read recently that the cost of cotton is going down since the weather has been very good where it's grown. I don't know how true that is, but I don't see the cost of cotton fabric going down yet. Maybe it never will.
:-(
08-25-2011, 08:20 AM
#86
Power Poster
Join Date: May 2008
Location: MN
Posts: 24,410
I think it's more the line than the store a fabric is purchased from
I made a blue and tan quilt about 20 years ago - the fabrics were ALL purchased from Northwest Fabrics (no longer in existence) - 13 of the 14 fabrics still look pretty good. One navy one with stars is totally faded and looks about 30 years older than the rest of the quilt.
I usually wash ALL of the quilt at the same time and with the same method. Have no idea why just that one fabric faded so badly.
I made a blue and tan quilt about 20 years ago - the fabrics were ALL purchased from Northwest Fabrics (no longer in existence) - 13 of the 14 fabrics still look pretty good. One navy one with stars is totally faded and looks about 30 years older than the rest of the quilt.
I usually wash ALL of the quilt at the same time and with the same method. Have no idea why just that one fabric faded so badly.
08-25-2011, 08:24 AM
#88
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Fla & NE PA in summer
Posts: 193
Please consider what the LQS expertise provides for you. Friendly atmosphere, classes, quality fabrics, support,etc. Walmart and Joannes can't come close. I say support the owner's that do so much to further our interests and educate us with new techniques, teachers, etc.
08-25-2011, 08:30 AM
#90
Power Poster
Join Date: May 2008
Location: MN
Posts: 24,410
Originally Posted by Stitcher317
Please consider what the LQS expertise provides for you. Friendly atmosphere, classes, quality fabrics, support,etc. Walmart and Joannes can't come close. I say support the owner's that do so much to further our interests and educate us with new techniques, teachers, etc.
I swear I must have been wearing an invisibility cloak at some shops for all the notice I got!
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