Curves, curves, and more curves
#21
Peckish, don't say that. i have tons of apple cores cut out. hopefully hand stitching will not be in my future. my fingers do not like it. I love curves though. mainly drunkard's path blocks so far.
Last edited by QuiltnNan; 12-10-2019 at 03:31 PM. Reason: shouting/all caps
#22
I have a Curve Master foot but find that a quarter inch seam foot works just as well. Align the beginning, hold one piece in each hand, raise the left side slightly, and go. When you're about 1/2" from the end, use sharp tweezers to hold the two pieces together. This takes some practice and coordination but you get the hang of it fairly quickly. It is essential, though, to hold the left (top) piece up. Maybe there's a YouTube that may help you?
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...AB3E&FORM=VIRE
She uses a regular foot and holds the two pieces in different hands, concave on top, and eases the two together using the bottom right hand side of the foot as a guide, along with her fold marks to make sure she stays on track.
She is very speedy but assures anyone can do it with more practice. I tried it a few times (much more slowly) and they came out better than I expected with very little puckering (not worth redoing once ironed).
#24
Super Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Pacific NW
Posts: 9,395
The other alternative is one I saw at a vendor's booth somewhere. I smacked myself in the head and said "why didn't I think of that." She simply sewed the pieces as raw-edge applique, and used the inevitable fraying as a design element. I plan to take that step even further by sewing chenille strips on top of the raw edges, if I can find whatever corner I chucked that UFO in. I plan on making my own chenille by cutting 1/2" wide strips, layering them 3 or 4 deep on the seam, then stitching on top. Once it's washed and dried, I'll take a stiff chenille brush to fluff the fibers and make the quilt very texture-y. Sounds fun, doesn't it?
Last edited by QuiltnNan; 12-10-2019 at 03:31 PM.
#26
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Utah
Posts: 8
I have a Curve Master foot but find that a quarter inch seam foot works just as well. Align the beginning, hold one piece in each hand, raise the left side slightly, and go. When you're about 1/2" from the end, use sharp tweezers to hold the two pieces together. This takes some practice and coordination but you get the hang of it fairly quickly. It is essential, though, to hold the left (top) piece up. Maybe there's a YouTube that may help you?
I thought I would give this a try and had to Google what foot might be compatible with my machine (Shark Euro Pro). I pinned, I practiced, and then I went to Nutall's. Using a plain 1/4" seam guide foot has worked miracles!! Every single Curve has come out perfectly. The Curve Master was fighting me the *entire* time I was using it...
On a different note, I have a Curve Master now for sale - lightly used - lol!
Sincerely thank you all for giving me ideas I seriously tried almost every one of them.
#27
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Utah
Posts: 8
I have a Curve Master foot but find that a quarter inch seam foot works just as well. Align the beginning, hold one piece in each hand, raise the left side slightly, and go. When you're about 1/2" from the end, use sharp tweezers to hold the two pieces together. This takes some practice and coordination but you get the hang of it fairly quickly. It is essential, though, to hold the left (top) piece up. Maybe there's a YouTube that may help you?
I thought I would give this a try and had to Google what foot might be compatible with my machine (Shark Euro Pro). I pinned, I practiced, and then I went to Nutall's. Using a plain 1/4" seam guide foot has worked miracles!! Every single Curve has come out perfectly. The Curve Master was fighting me the *entire* time I was using it...
On a different note, I have a Curve Master now for sale - lightly used - lol!
Sincerely thank you all for giving me ideas I seriously tried almost every one of them.
#28
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: kansas
Posts: 6,407
I do like Ckcrowl and find that if I sew fairly slow, they work just fine--I'd add two things--with a DP or other curved block that isn't paper pieced, I plan on doing some trimming of the block usually, and secondly, be sure that you are cutting the straight sides of the DP block on the straight of grain so that the curves (both convex and concave) are actually on the bias, allowing for the stretching needed to get the matched edges.
#29
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 802
Here is a tiny tutorial I did for the last person who asked this question. Free form Quilt with Curves...How?
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