Design wall
#41
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Maryland
Posts: 2,376
A friend of mine uses large binder clips to hold her foam boards and she hangs them from gorilla hooks. The hooks are barely visible so she can take the boards down easily when she wants to. The hooks are available in lots of places. This link shows them at Lowe's. http://www.lowes.com/pd_311589-37672-121048_0__
#42
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Franklin, TX
Posts: 124
I didn't want to do anything permanent at this time, so I hung a sheet from 4 skirt hangers suspended from picture hooks. It has worked out really well, and has the advantage of being able to be removed easily. Small pieces will stick to the sheet, or I use straight pins to attach things. I can also use the hangers to hang the completed (ir partially completed) quilt for a final perusal. (or to take pictures)
#43
I used to have two sheets of insulation board that I screwed to the wall and could just pin to it. (miss that one a lot) Now I have a large piece of mauve flannel on a rod against the wall. I use two wrought iron shelf brackets so they do double duty and hold a shelf as well as the rod for my design wall.
#45
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Anchorage, AK
Posts: 1,392
if you have bookcases in your space, try stapling the hook side of velcro on the front edge of the bookshelf then stitching the loop side of the velcro in matching places on the back/vinyl side of flannel backed vinyl or table cloth. Hang up when you need the design wall and take it down when you don't need it. Because the back is vinyl, you can roll it up to keep the design intact (mostly) to access your shelves, to carry the "wall" to retreat, etc. You can use either a tablecloth or buy yardage at Walmart or Joann's.
#46
I used 2, 4 X 8 sheets of foam insulation, covered them with batting and glued them to the sewing room wall with "No Nails". That was my mistake. To take them down and paint the room, they are up there too tight. I am having a Sewing Studio built in my DH's shop that will be very large and comfy, so the old wall will come down to return that room to a bedroom. Its going to be a lot of work to repair that wall. If your ceilings are 8 foot high, or 4 ft, you should be able to cover the insulation board and just push it gently into place.
#47
Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: SW Washington
Posts: 55
if you are in a loft space ( I have a similar space) what I have been thinking of getting are some free standing cubicle wall dividers from a surplus office supply. I'm thinking with the padding (on both sides) they would be great for a design wall
#48
Great idea! I am going to do this. So when i am done pieces my blocks I can take down the flannel and put up my top until I am ready to FMQ it...that was it will not wringle.
#49
Super Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Arizona
Posts: 5,578
Several years ago I ordered a Block Butler (on line).. It can be used for class and folded with block arrangement etc. however, I attached cafe curtain hooks to it, put a curtain rod on the folding closet door frame. Now I have a design wall that can be pulled to either side to access the closet doors. Works good for me. Sometime 16 inch or larger blocks do need to be pinned due to their weight. I do find that a design wall makes a big difference in fabric choices and placement of blocks.
Judy in Phx, AZ
Judy in Phx, AZ
#50
Here's a step by step using the Home Depot foam boards in case anyone needs it:
http://www.ohfransson.com/oh_fransso...sign-wall.html
I've got 2 boards in my garage and hope to get them covered in batting next week. Mine will not be attached to the wall but will just lean up against so I can move them around. Can't wait!
http://www.ohfransson.com/oh_fransso...sign-wall.html
I've got 2 boards in my garage and hope to get them covered in batting next week. Mine will not be attached to the wall but will just lean up against so I can move them around. Can't wait!
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