Does it really matter
#12
Power Poster
Join Date: May 2008
Location: MN
Posts: 24,659
I try to use the same on the top and bottom - but I do not know if it really matters or not
.
I also use whatever - but because a lot of the thtead I have is 'older" - I do check it for strength before using it.
.
I also use whatever - but because a lot of the thtead I have is 'older" - I do check it for strength before using it.
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 637
What kind of thread I use depends on what I'm doing. The one I'm working on right now had a lot of piecing and quilting.
So I decided to use Maxilock serger thread so I don't go broke just buying thread. If it's on sale I can get two 3K cones for $5. I believe it's cotton. I can iron it at any rate.
What I'm working on now has cream backing so for decorative topstitch I'm using tan Coats & Clarks with white serger thread in the bobbin.
Of course the thread doesn't fit on my Singer 9022. I hung the cone upside down from the chandalier with a rubber band paper clip binder clip affair. It's cheap, it works so I'm happy.
So I decided to use Maxilock serger thread so I don't go broke just buying thread. If it's on sale I can get two 3K cones for $5. I believe it's cotton. I can iron it at any rate.
What I'm working on now has cream backing so for decorative topstitch I'm using tan Coats & Clarks with white serger thread in the bobbin.
Of course the thread doesn't fit on my Singer 9022. I hung the cone upside down from the chandalier with a rubber band paper clip binder clip affair. It's cheap, it works so I'm happy.
#16
Power Poster
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Western Wisconsin
Posts: 12,930
Using a fine cotton thread in both top and bobbin (Aurifil 50wt 2-ply) works best for me. I have tried experimenting using polyester thread for piecing. When using in both top and bobbin, I find that the stitches at the end of a piece are much more likely to loosen. On my machine, if I use poly in the bobbin and cotton on top, I notice that my seams do not lie as smooth. It probably depends on how picky you are and perhaps also on how your machine handles these threads.
#17
Mettler thread is not 'wrapped' in silk. The 'silk' - which is actually 'silk finish' refers to the manufacturing process and is 100% cotton. A common misconception.
#18
Super Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Pacific NW
Posts: 9,559
#19
[QUOTE=Happy Linda;7118599]The poly will melt if you need to iron. I learned the hard way. Glad it was only on one block.[/QUOTEI
I made a beautiful quilt. I sandwiched it and was quilting it and it all was coming apart. When I checked the seams, the thread was really stiff and scratchy. I continued quilting by stitching very very close to the seam on the side the seams were pressed. what happened was when I ironed the top getting it ready, I melted the thread. It held until I was quilting and it was too late to re stitch the seams. did the best I could.
lesson learned, never again.
I made a beautiful quilt. I sandwiched it and was quilting it and it all was coming apart. When I checked the seams, the thread was really stiff and scratchy. I continued quilting by stitching very very close to the seam on the side the seams were pressed. what happened was when I ironed the top getting it ready, I melted the thread. It held until I was quilting and it was too late to re stitch the seams. did the best I could.
lesson learned, never again.
#20
Power Poster
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Western Wisconsin
Posts: 12,930
I have tested both my YLI nylon monofilament thread and my poly thread by placing a strand on my ironing board and ironing with my hottest iron setting (which on my Rowenta is very hot!). Neither melted. In fact, I could not perceive any change in the threads even after leaving my hot iron on them for a minute at a time. I think a problem with melting thread is a rarity these days. Manufacturing advances are probably the reason.
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