Fun and done patterns
#12
I made one of these recently. The seams are very strong and they should hold up well. The pattern tells you to adjust the stitch length (from 2.5 to 2.0) when joining the blocks together to add strength to that part of the quilt. The block buddy works great to get the precise size of the pieces.
#13
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Clay Springs AZ
Posts: 3,229
I made one and my seams are coming apart. You have only one seam holding the blocks togather and it is the backing fabric only. You need to shorten your stitch length and stitch as close as you can get to the blocks.
This makes a stiff quilt also so will not make another one.
I bought the rulers and the inside one is 7 1/2 in so it comes in handy when you need this odd size.
This makes a stiff quilt also so will not make another one.
I bought the rulers and the inside one is 7 1/2 in so it comes in handy when you need this odd size.
#15
I have used this method twice with no problems. [ATTACH=CONFIG]417290[/ATTACH] The first was a rather large quilt for my daughter made out of pajama flannels; the second was a flannel floor quilt for my two newest grand babies. That was posted recently at: http://www.quiltingboard.com/picture...s-t221614.html
I chose this method on both because of size and bulk. It enabled me to quilt it myself on my DSM with only a 6 1/2" throat. I would definitely use that method again. BTW: my daughter uses it every day during the winter on her bed, with her large dogs and it has held up to them AND numerous washings over the last two years. I make them to be used
I chose this method on both because of size and bulk. It enabled me to quilt it myself on my DSM with only a 6 1/2" throat. I would definitely use that method again. BTW: my daughter uses it every day during the winter on her bed, with her large dogs and it has held up to them AND numerous washings over the last two years. I make them to be used
#17
When I clicked the link at Bayside it opened up "Windows Media Player" to view it. I'm guessing that is the default viewer built into that video. I remember searching for a long time for other tutes on it and did again just now, but can't find any.
#18
Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 84
alternate approach
I use this technique to do wall hangings from embroidery. i design my own embroidery with embird and use a loose line drawing instead of a dense embroidery.
i take a backing fabric and hoop it and then take a sandwich of thin batting (normall polar fleece) and my top fabric, spray adhere the batting and top, then cut to 4 or 5 or whatever size i want - don't need to be square, rectangular shapes also work fine.
then spray the back of the batting and place on the hooped backing. then to the embroidery machine and stitch through all 3 layers. if i use a light color on the front i use a dark thread on top and a dark on the back use a light thread. the back and front both get embroidered at the same time. normally i use a solid top and backing.
once each square is done, you can trim the edges to 1 inch, sew together - i use my zipper foot to sew these together as i can get right up to the edge of the sandwich without the foot riding on the sandwich, turn and sew as done in the video. if i want a lighter or more interesting design, i will take my serger and serve a contracting color thread around all 4 edges of the backing after it has been trimmed, then fold over only once and top stitch with the same color thread which makes the machine sewing disappear in the serged thread. that puts a color border around each square.
you can control how heavy the quilt is by the batting you add and whether you use 1 or 2 thicknesses in the turn over to each block.
i take a backing fabric and hoop it and then take a sandwich of thin batting (normall polar fleece) and my top fabric, spray adhere the batting and top, then cut to 4 or 5 or whatever size i want - don't need to be square, rectangular shapes also work fine.
then spray the back of the batting and place on the hooped backing. then to the embroidery machine and stitch through all 3 layers. if i use a light color on the front i use a dark thread on top and a dark on the back use a light thread. the back and front both get embroidered at the same time. normally i use a solid top and backing.
once each square is done, you can trim the edges to 1 inch, sew together - i use my zipper foot to sew these together as i can get right up to the edge of the sandwich without the foot riding on the sandwich, turn and sew as done in the video. if i want a lighter or more interesting design, i will take my serger and serve a contracting color thread around all 4 edges of the backing after it has been trimmed, then fold over only once and top stitch with the same color thread which makes the machine sewing disappear in the serged thread. that puts a color border around each square.
you can control how heavy the quilt is by the batting you add and whether you use 1 or 2 thicknesses in the turn over to each block.
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Puget Sound WA area
Posts: 300
I've made a couple of wall hangings / table runners / placemats / pot holders using the COTTON THEORY method (very similar to Fun & Done and the Quilt-As-You-Go). They are VERY STURDY (and the kitchen items get LOTS of washing due to my 8 & 9 year olds). They have held up quite well and were very fun to sew.
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