How would you do this?
#11
I agree with everyone else, she should have checked the quilt before she shipped it back to you. It was her mistake and now she should pay the cost of shipping it back to be finished. If she's a true professional who cares about her customers and wants their repeat business, this is what she would do.
#13
We all make mistakes, and this is the same pinwheeel quilt where I made one backwards pinwheel, so I don't want to drag it out any longer. She did offer to fix it. And she gave me a good deal on the LA work for as much as she did.
Just looking for the best way for me to fix it and be done with it. Ah for the days of good old fashioned carbon paper....I'm thinking I could try to Xerox a square then pin it on and stitch through the paper......thoughts?
Just looking for the best way for me to fix it and be done with it. Ah for the days of good old fashioned carbon paper....I'm thinking I could try to Xerox a square then pin it on and stitch through the paper......thoughts?
#15
Your idea sounds like it might work. Carbon paper would stain the fabric and not come out. Try to get your stitches about the same length as hers. I quilt my own quilts and always check the back for missed areas.
#16
Ditto...it's the LA's responsibility to finish the job, including covering the shipping.
This may sound harsh but no way I would pay someone and end up finishing the work myself. In my opinion a spool of thread does not compensate for her mistake: she should finish the work at HER expense incl. postage fees ,or give you a considerable discount (as to assume you'll have to have s-o else do her work for her; it's none of her business whether you do or not). You're paying for finished quilting, not partly done.
#17
I would trace the pattern onto paper and then make some copies, more than just the two you need for the quilt. Then practice it on some quilt sandwiches on your domestic sewing machine. This way you can adjust to get the stitch length the same and practice the movement needed to get the smooth curves. of the pattern. When you feel confident with your practice ones, do it on the quilt.
#18
Good suggestion to make several copies and run some practice ones.
I would trace the pattern onto paper and then make some copies, more than just the two you need for the quilt. Then practice it on some quilt sandwiches on your domestic sewing machine. This way you can adjust to get the stitch length the same and practice the movement needed to get the smooth curves. of the pattern. When you feel confident with your practice ones, do it on the quilt.
#20
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 4,783
You can actually do that by hand and make the stitching look like machine stitching, without any spaces in between. I've done it. They aren't big areas, so that's what I'd do. When it's finished, you won't be able to find any differences between what was done by hand and what was done by machine, if you are careful. Start off with half of the length of thread on one side of the quilt and half on the other side with the needle on it (no knots on either end). Make the first stitch the correct length (to match those already machine stitched), and you end up with both lengths of thread on one side of the quilt. Now switch the needle to the other length of thread and pass it through to the other side of the quilt through the same hole the first thread is hanging by. Continue in this manner, following the mark you made for the quilting, keeping the stitches very uniform in length. The stitches don't interlock between the layers like machine stitches do, but they pass each other figure eight style between the layers. Hope this makes sense.
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