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Keeping FMQ stitches even

Keeping FMQ stitches even

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Old 06-06-2013, 06:30 PM
  #11  
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Sorry how can I sew with no foot control as I've never tried this before? Tartan mentioned abt keeping the metal pedal down too.
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Old 06-06-2013, 07:02 PM
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If your machine can be set at a medium speed, then pressing the pedal down completely will only have you sewing at the top of the medium speed. When you don't have to think about pressing more or less to control the speed, it does help.
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Old 06-06-2013, 07:25 PM
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I too, would get stuck in places when FMQ so now I start in the corner and work my way around the quilt sides and end up finishing in the middle. I sandwich my quilts with Elmer's Washable School glue, homemade spray gllue or 505 so they do not shift and I find this the easiest way for me.
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Old 06-07-2013, 11:20 AM
  #14  
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I draw it first. Then I put an even melody in my head and let the music guide me. The music keeps me from speeding or slowing. The key is an even tune.
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Old 06-08-2013, 05:27 AM
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I found going really slow helped keep my stitches more even.
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Old 06-08-2013, 07:56 AM
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I have been spending time with my machine and instruction manual for it. I am learning a lot. The most important was adjusting the tension when FMQ, the other was adjusting the pressure of the pressure foot. I have done two quilts now with no eyelashes and a much more even stitch. Sometimes we have to go back to square one to start over
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Old 06-08-2013, 12:20 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by vivientan View Post
Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I need to find ways to continue to motivate myself & not feel discouraged. I'm on medium speed now and most stitches look really long. Some quilters say going faster should shorten the stitches, is this true? The quilting machine I'm using didn't make it all easier. I'm using Janome 6320 & I've been getting tension issues since I started, even the service centre couldn't figure out what's wrong. Perhaps it's time to upgrade my machine.
Do you adjust both the top and bottom tension when you quilt? Most shops won't show you how to adjust the bottom tension, because it's "OK", and you only have to adjust the top. That's BS. I've been adjusting bottom tensions for over 40 years, with good results. Whenever I quilt, I have to adjust the bottom tension, and how much will depend on the material and batting used. I have a Janome MC 9700, awesome machine. I now have 3 bobbin cases for it. One is for regular sewing, one is for embroidery (because it has to be so tight on the bottom) and one for quilting. It saves me a lot of "tension tweaking", but not all obviously.

Look for the small screw on the front of the bobbin case. This is your lower tension adjuster. (And it looks the same on my new Janome as it did on my old Brother, and even on my early one-stitch Singer, so I'm guessing they haven't changed much and may be universal.) Hold the bobbin case with the screw facing you. Don't adjust more than a quarter turn at a time. Tightening the tension means you "screw down" the screw by turning it to the right. Loosening it means turning it a quarter turn to the left. Then test it on a "sandwich" you've made that is the same thickness as your quilt. Put one of those "slider bobbin washers" in the bobbin before you put the thread into the case. This really helps prevent all that "snaggling" of thread on the back of the quilt.

In my experience, going slower shortens the stitches. The trick is to work up to a uniform speed so your stitches look alike. My Janome has a speed regulator, which really helps maintain a consistent speed; look for that on yours.

Please ask if you have any more questions! We love questions!

Last edited by MacThayer; 06-08-2013 at 12:24 PM. Reason: additional message
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Old 06-08-2013, 12:49 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by vivientan View Post
Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I need to find ways to continue to motivate myself & not feel discouraged. I'm on medium speed now and most stitches look really long. Some quilters say going faster should shorten the stitches, is this true? The quilting machine I'm using didn't make it all easier. I'm using Janome 6320 & I've been getting tension issues since I started, even the service centre couldn't figure out what's wrong. Perhaps it's time to upgrade my machine.
Some of my friends say the newest Janomes are wonderful. I have a 6600P and a special adjustable free motion foot and special bobbin case with a blue mark (instead of red) and with feed dogs down and a super slider, I am fearless. Really gives me results. And best of all it is fun. I know things are going well when I catch myself smiling. Keep at it! The machine and tools do make a difference!
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Old 06-09-2013, 04:47 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by klgls View Post
I have found using the stop and start button on my Janome 6600 and having the speed at medium - medium slow allows me to concentrate on just moving the fabric - it's helping to make my stitches more consistent.
same here. I think I have finally found my comfort speed at medium. However, I keep practicing FMQ'ing on smaller projects like table runners and potholders until I find designs that fit my groove, like making vines and loops. I enjoy practicing and hope to have the confidence someday to FMQ a large quilt on my Janome 6600
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Old 06-09-2013, 09:33 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by MacThayer View Post
Do you adjust both the top and bottom tension when you quilt? Most shops won't show you how to adjust the bottom tension, because it's "OK", and you only have to adjust the top. That's BS. I've been adjusting bottom tensions for over 40 years, with good results. Whenever I quilt, I have to adjust the bottom tension, and how much will depend on the material and batting used. I have a Janome MC 9700, awesome machine. I now have 3 bobbin cases for it. One is for regular sewing, one is for embroidery (because it has to be so tight on the bottom) and one for quilting. It saves me a lot of "tension tweaking", but not all obviously.

Look for the small screw on the front of the bobbin case. This is your lower tension adjuster. (And it looks the same on my new Janome as it did on my old Brother, and even on my early one-stitch Singer, so I'm guessing they haven't changed much and may be universal.) Hold the bobbin case with the screw facing you. Don't adjust more than a quarter turn at a time. Tightening the tension means you "screw down" the screw by turning it to the right. Loosening it means turning it a quarter turn to the left. Then test it on a "sandwich" you've made that is the same thickness as your quilt. Put one of those "slider bobbin washers" in the bobbin before you put the thread into the case. This really helps prevent all that "snaggling" of thread on the back of the quilt.

In my experience, going slower shortens the stitches. The trick is to work up to a uniform speed so your stitches look alike. My Janome has a speed regulator, which really helps maintain a consistent speed; look for that on yours.

Please ask if you have any more questions! We love questions!
I've heard quilters talk about adjusting the lower tension, but the manufacturer strongly advises against it! If this is working for u, perhaps it's something I could explore to see if it improves things. As I'm looking at the bobbin case now, there are 2 screws. Which is the one I should adjust? The star one or the other one? For the speed regulator, I believe you are referring to the speed control lever on my Janome? Some quilters mentioned about setting on medium speed and setting the metal pedal down. I'm not sure how I could set it down completely on my Janome, while I focus on moving the quilt at regular speed.

How about the foot pressure? I had it on 3 on my Janome.

How can I quilt nice circles and curves? They are not very nicely curved as far as I can see.

For your info, I'm doing/using most things that's possible on a Janome, such as the blue tip needle, blue bobbin case, bobbin washers, super slider, quilting gloves...it's the tension that I regularly struggle with.
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