Let Us Teach About Fabric Quality
12-11-2011, 09:33 AM
#71
Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 78
I agree that you don't have to buy exspensive fabric. I certainly can't afford it and even if I could I would still look at it closely to determine the quality. I have made some bad choices in the past when buying fabric. I can't afford to do that. I have been heartbroken when I used the poor quality material that was hard to sew, didn't look good or hold up very well. So here are a few things that I now look for when buying fabric so I won't make the same mistake again. A piece of material that the threads look uneven or feel kinda lumpy on the back of the fabric might not be a good choice. You can also hold the material up to the light to make sure it isn't paper thin. I have bought 100% cotton and still it stretched out of shape. So now I check to make sure it's not too stretchy. I aways check to make sure the threads don't look too loose or that the edges aren't raveling too excessively. When I buy fabric or clothes, I crinkle the fabric then I try to smooth it out to see how wrinkled it still is. I hate ironing and I certainly don't want to make something that is going to looked extremely wrinkled after I have spend hours working on it.
Happy quilting!
Happy quilting!
12-11-2011, 10:06 AM
#72
Power Poster
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 17,826
ITA on the feel and inspection before purchasing!
However, I've been fooled ... beautiful feeling fabric that went limp and think once washed. Sometimes I can feel the sizing/filler in there, and turn away. Other times, it's a total surprise.
And too, sometimes I have purchased a small piece to "try", thinking it will go limp in the wash, and it comes out absolutely beautiful.
So the question that begs to be asked ... how does one accurately assess it for such while in the store?
However, I've been fooled ... beautiful feeling fabric that went limp and think once washed. Sometimes I can feel the sizing/filler in there, and turn away. Other times, it's a total surprise.
And too, sometimes I have purchased a small piece to "try", thinking it will go limp in the wash, and it comes out absolutely beautiful.
So the question that begs to be asked ... how does one accurately assess it for such while in the store?
12-11-2011, 10:53 AM
#74
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Washington State
Posts: 418
Great Post! I couldn't agree more. I support my local LQS because I want to, but I can find good/great fabric lots of places and fabric I will not use in my quilts at the same places. Good job with clarifying this often unclear topic. 
12-11-2011, 11:10 AM
#75
Super Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Western Nevada
Posts: 2,520
OK, going back to the thread title "Let us teach about fabric quality," what exactly DOES determine fabric quality?
There are three major quality factors in determining overall fabric quality;
1) The quality of the base goods (greige goods) upon which the fabric is printed or dyed.
The quality of goods is where it starts, and that quality is determined by a number of factors. The thread count is one -- most cotton made for quilting is what they call 60 square, i.e. there are 60 threads in each direction of the weave, per square inch. Some higher-quality quilting fabric will be 75 square, and batiks and hand-dyes tend to be on even higher thread count fabric, which is what makes them a little more difficult to hand-quilt.
However, thread count isn't the only thing that makes a difference -- the quality of the thread used to make the fabric, and the thickness of the individual threads are also important factors. Cheaper fabrics may have a 60 square thread count but be made of cheaper, rougher lower-quality thread that is also thinner. Less care is also given in the weaving process in cheaper fabrics. The higher quality fabrics will be printed on goods made from more rare, long-staple cotton.
2) The quality of the engraving and printing.
Quality is all over the board in this part as well. Hallmarks of high-quality fabric are the care taken in the design process, the engraving process and the printing process, and the quality of the materials used in the process. Cheaper fabrics will be quickly designed (or even copied) electronically with not a lot of care taken, the engravings may be sloppy, and cheaper dyes will be used in the printing. Fewer color overlays (screens) will often be used. The overall result is that the fabric will often be muddy or blurry looking with not a lot of crisp lines and will be less colorful. The dyes will often lack brilliance and the fabric will just look sort of boring. The designs themselves will mostly be less intricate and simpler.
Higher and highest quality fabrics should have true colors, crisp designs and a lot of obvious care taken with the printing process. The highest quality fabrics will sometimes come from original paintings (although this is getting very rare, only a few companies do this anymore), engraved with the greatest care, and with a lot of attention to detail in the printing process.
3) The quality of the finishing.
Quality finishing, along with the previous two points, determines how the fabric will feel. Does it have a nice soft hand? Is it easy to work with? Does it have enough, but not too much stretch? How does it feel when you touch it and work with it?
The highest quality fabrics will have a great "hand," will be easy to work with, and will be pliable yet hold their shape when sewn. Lower quality fabrics may feel rough, have a lot of obvious "starchy" feel, and may be stiff or will excessively unravel.
Hope this helps you teach yourself what to look for when you're fabric shopping. In most cases, you get what you pay for. There are of course bargains to be had everywhere. I encourage you comparison shop, but make sure always that you're comparing apples to apples, etc. Just because you pay a high price, doesn't always mean you're getting the highest quality fabric. But if you're paying an ultra-low price on fabric purported to be high-quality, let the buyer beware...
There are three major quality factors in determining overall fabric quality;
1) The quality of the base goods (greige goods) upon which the fabric is printed or dyed.
The quality of goods is where it starts, and that quality is determined by a number of factors. The thread count is one -- most cotton made for quilting is what they call 60 square, i.e. there are 60 threads in each direction of the weave, per square inch. Some higher-quality quilting fabric will be 75 square, and batiks and hand-dyes tend to be on even higher thread count fabric, which is what makes them a little more difficult to hand-quilt.
However, thread count isn't the only thing that makes a difference -- the quality of the thread used to make the fabric, and the thickness of the individual threads are also important factors. Cheaper fabrics may have a 60 square thread count but be made of cheaper, rougher lower-quality thread that is also thinner. Less care is also given in the weaving process in cheaper fabrics. The higher quality fabrics will be printed on goods made from more rare, long-staple cotton.
2) The quality of the engraving and printing.
Quality is all over the board in this part as well. Hallmarks of high-quality fabric are the care taken in the design process, the engraving process and the printing process, and the quality of the materials used in the process. Cheaper fabrics will be quickly designed (or even copied) electronically with not a lot of care taken, the engravings may be sloppy, and cheaper dyes will be used in the printing. Fewer color overlays (screens) will often be used. The overall result is that the fabric will often be muddy or blurry looking with not a lot of crisp lines and will be less colorful. The dyes will often lack brilliance and the fabric will just look sort of boring. The designs themselves will mostly be less intricate and simpler.
Higher and highest quality fabrics should have true colors, crisp designs and a lot of obvious care taken with the printing process. The highest quality fabrics will sometimes come from original paintings (although this is getting very rare, only a few companies do this anymore), engraved with the greatest care, and with a lot of attention to detail in the printing process.
3) The quality of the finishing.
Quality finishing, along with the previous two points, determines how the fabric will feel. Does it have a nice soft hand? Is it easy to work with? Does it have enough, but not too much stretch? How does it feel when you touch it and work with it?
The highest quality fabrics will have a great "hand," will be easy to work with, and will be pliable yet hold their shape when sewn. Lower quality fabrics may feel rough, have a lot of obvious "starchy" feel, and may be stiff or will excessively unravel.
Hope this helps you teach yourself what to look for when you're fabric shopping. In most cases, you get what you pay for. There are of course bargains to be had everywhere. I encourage you comparison shop, but make sure always that you're comparing apples to apples, etc. Just because you pay a high price, doesn't always mean you're getting the highest quality fabric. But if you're paying an ultra-low price on fabric purported to be high-quality, let the buyer beware...
12-11-2011, 03:38 PM
#77
Super Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Petersburg, WV
Posts: 1,512
What it boils down to is this, we all like to sew/quilt. Some can afford being elite some of us can not. Some buy new, some re-purpose clothing. But, we all enjoy the process (unless we run afoul of the learning curve).
12-11-2011, 03:45 PM
#78
Super Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Petersburg, WV
Posts: 1,512
Oh, I forgot to mention sizing. Some companies put to much on the fabric, making it feel thick. Try holding it up to the light to see how see throughish it is, or something like that. It will shrink some with first wash though.
12-11-2011, 03:46 PM
#79
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Ulladulla, Australia
Posts: 592
Well said thenk you for taking the time I love quilting and i never buy so call top quality fabric because i know my quilt are meant to be used and not having to worry how much it cost or to be used on a couch
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