MTS

Sorry, but that just cracked me up. :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Candace

Ha! We think alike! This is EXACTLY my plan!

amandasgramma

I have mine in an 8 x 16 foot shop.....kinda cramped behind it but I live with it. I don't do the pantos that require you to stand behind. I leave it up all the time. DH would shoot me if I said I was wanting it taken down. he said it has to go "with the house"...LOL My longarm has a computer program.....and that is complicated to make sure it's all hooked up right.

I agree with other...go to the shops or conventions and look them over. I thought I wanted to upgrade to a Gammill or APQS...but took a class that had an APQS and decided I really don't need one that big! My machine is a Pfaff 18.8. She didn't do ANYTHING in the class that made me want a bigger machine....the designs will work just fine on my machine. Also - the APQS was so noisy.........nope, don't want it.

knlsmith

LOL. Believe me, she knows it too! She's in college and only works 2 days a week. She asked me to figure up how much minimum she would need to live on her own. It came to 1458 a month. She says to me, "but I only make 400 now!" we both laughed. Poor kid. Talk about reality slapping you in the face. ;)

Rose L

I have a Grace Original GMQ frame. I have it set at full size, 102" (8.5 Ft.) is the maximum size quilt that I can do on it. I believe the new Grace Pro is up to 120" (someone correct me if I am wrong, please). I leave it set up all the time. It requires about a half day of unscrewing and re-screwing a bazillion screws to take it down and set it back up..and then it has to be re-leveled. It is best to have enough room, IMHO, to have three sides accessible with at least as much room on each of the long sides to be able to bend forward and thread the needle or pull a tangle from the bobbin case, meaning you need some butt space behind you. A lot of people don't have enough space to access the back of their machine but even if you don't do pantos (which I think are a very important optional way to quilt) you can also use the bed on the back to tape down a stencil and use it to fill a block by using your laser or pointer. That saves having to mark the stencil on the quilt top. So two reasons to be able to access the back of the frame. On my setup I have a mid-arm Bailey (17" Pro) and there are times when I need or want to turn the hand wheel to get exact needle placement, so I need to be able to access the back for that too.

I have a very large alcove off my living room and it is my complete sewing area. I have one end of my frame up against the far wall in the center of the room as you look into the alcove and the end of the frame sticks out into the living room through the arched doorway by about 2 Ft. It's not in the way at all, my DD2 can easily walk past it to get to her bedroom which is off the alcove and we can easily access my bedroom door which is on the LR side of the alcove as well. I have an aisle on each long side of my frame. On one side of the aisle I have my sewing machine, cutting table and ironing board set up. On the opposite aisle I have my book cases and a file cabinet set up. It works for me for now. When my DD2 leaves for college this summer, I will move my frame to her room and that way I'll have two adjoining spaces in which to really spread out and get some work done. I'll miss her but I'm looking forward to more room ;)

quilttiludrop

Permanent set up. I have a Gammill. The smallest table available is 10' long, which will fit in a larger bedroom. We are pleased with the solid built frame, the usability, the durability and availability of support (should we ever need any). My husband is my back-up technician. It is necessary to know which end of the screw driver to use, how to use a crevice tool on the vacuum, etc.. (I don't admit to being mechanically talented).

applejacks

I think the idea of having an adjustable table is just a selling gimmick...it's easier for them to ship that way and so they sell you on the idea that it is better. Most people, once they have it set up, leave it set up all the time. (The back of the table is an excellent extra work table when your are not quilting.) For the best quilting results the table should be level, the bars should be accurately parallel, and the tracks should be straight and continuous with no "cuts" or "joints" to create a "hiccup" in the stitching when quilting. Poles that can be made smaller or larger, are by nature less rigid and can give or bend when tension is put on the quilt sandwich, possibly creating an "hourglass" shaped quilt.

Where do you store it when it is taken apart? Who wants to lift that heavy machine on and off the table? You CAN do a small quilt on a large frame or even load two small quilts at the same time onto one backing.

Shop around and don't make price your primary consideration. The time you spend trying to make a less than perfect set up work is worth something too! It should be fun. Many of the longarm companies will provide a custom size table length for a minimual charge if space is an issue.

Narrow your choices down to two or three options then ask to see a machine setup at full length. The small "demo" tables stitch pretty good...but do they also stitch as smoothly on a full length table setup?

Also ask about training, service, support, and warranties.