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Thread: My Machine Binding done this way is never full. Any tips ?

  1. #1
    Super Member copycat's Avatar
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    Question My Machine Binding done this way is never full. Any tips ?

    I am doing Machine Binding and have the same issue every time. My binding is not full.

    I am sewing 2.5" binding to the front of the quilt using a 1/4" seam allowance. I turn the binding to the back of the quilt and bring the edge of the binding just over the seam line. (visible from sewing the binding to the front).
    I use a lot of pins to keep the binding in place. Now I Stitch in the ditch on the front of the quilt along the binding in order to catch the Back of the binding edge.

    I can't seem to get a full binding when I machine bind with this method. Any tips or advice Please and thank you!

  2. #2
    Moderator QuiltnNan's Avatar
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    i found that cutting the binding to 2.25" helps me a lot
    Nancy in western NY
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  3. #3
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    I do the same---cut the binding at 2.25", sometimes even a bit less, like 2 and an eighth inches.

  4. #4
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    You can stitch the binding on using a 3/8" seam allowance.

    I sew binding onto the back using 3/8" seam then turn over to front and stitch down. I can see where the stitches are on the front and control the corner turns easier.

    Or cut the binding smaller as mentioned above.

    I made some scrap samples of both to determine which method worked for me. Generally, I don't iron the binding in half before stitching either. The binding edge lays flatter without the ironed edge. A light press to flatten the binding edge afterwards and it's all good.

  5. #5
    Super Member Onebyone's Avatar
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    Full binding is for judges. I have found full binding does not hold up over time. It frays and looks worn faster then more flat binding. The edges of the quilt get a lot of wear so the more surface area on the edge the more wear. Where ever the full binding rule came from it needs to go back.
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  6. #6
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    I do as you but trim my quilt with an extra 1/8 in batting. I don't trim until after I sew the binding on. This gives me something to hold and keeps the edges of the underside from slipping.

  7. #7
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    I square my quilts before adding binding. This gives me a nice straight edge to sew the binding to and with the 1/4 inch seam, it is sure to be full.

  8. #8
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    Your binding is too wide or your seam allowance not wide enough. I find that a 2.5" binding takes 3/8" seam to be full.

  9. #9
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    I purchased a Martelli seam guide & stitch in ditch binding foot from Nancy's Notions online. It goes from 1/4" to 1" and is easy to get the seams on both sides to match. I sew to the front first, pin to the back & then adjust the width to make sure it's just catching the back binding where I want it. It comes out awesome on both sides!

  10. #10
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    For me, anything more than 2.25" wide needs more than a 1/4" seam or it won't be full. If I'm not sure what I need, I sew several inches than pull it over and see if the seam is correct for the binding width. If not, I adjust.

    I never use a seam guide, I just go by what I've got sticking out from the edge of the narrow straight stitch foot. I know if I can see 2-3 threads, that is right about a scant 1/4". If what I'm sewing is coming out a bit short, I sew so less is sticking out, and if it seems wide, then I sew with more sticking out.
    My name is Cathy - and I'm addicted to old sewing machines and their attachments.

  11. #11
    Super Member Jeanne S's Avatar
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    I get much better results with 2.25" binding strips too.

  12. #12
    Super Member ube quilting's Avatar
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    How about using a very thin line of washable school glue on the binding to hold it in place while you sew. Try Sharon Shambers method for gluing binding and adjust her method to your machine sewing.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a2hWQ5-ZccE

    I think there are two parts to this lesson and this will get you there and I think it can help. She hand stitches her binding and if you glue it after you flip it the binding to the back and press it, it should stay in place.
    Last edited by ube quilting; 07-14-2017 at 01:38 PM.
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    Power Poster nativetexan's Avatar
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    i leave the backing and batting 1/4 away when trimming from the top edge. that should fill your binding. if not, cut binding 2 1/4 inches instead.

  14. #14
    Power Poster Jingle's Avatar
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    I don't worry about a full binding. I just want the binding to stay attached.
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  15. #15
    Super Member soccertxi's Avatar
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    I am probably a minority, but I cut my binding @ 2 inches. I like a narrow binding.
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  16. #16
    Super Member copycat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Becky's Crafts View Post
    I purchased a Martelli seam guide & stitch in ditch binding foot from Nancy's Notions online. It goes from 1/4" to 1" and is easy to get the seams on both sides to match. I sew to the front first, pin to the back & then adjust the width to make sure it's just catching the back binding where I want it. It comes out awesome on both sides!
    I do have problems catching the back of the binding in spots. I will look up the binding foot. Thank you.

    How do you adjust the width after you have pinned to the back?

  17. #17
    Super Member fivepaws's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rhonda K View Post
    You can stitch the binding on using a 3/8" seam allowance.

    I sew binding onto the back using 3/8" seam then turn over to front and stitch down. I can see where the stitches are on the front and control the corner turns easier.

    Or cut the binding smaller as mentioned above.

    I made some scrap samples of both to determine which method worked for me. Generally, I don't iron the binding in half before stitching either. The binding edge lays flatter without the ironed edge. A light press to flatten the binding edge afterwards and it's all good.
    Boy what a duh moment. Why didn't I think of that. Of course it is so easy to use by 1/4 inch foot but I am going to try it with a bigger seam. Makes sense to me.
    All my grand-children have paws.

  18. #18
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    I agree with QuiltnNan. I always use a 2 1/4" width (or less) for my bindings.

  19. #19
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    If you use a 2.5" binding strip, you need to have the edge of your quilt wider to be inside the binding. A .25" seam will always leave you with extra space in your binding. So, 2 options - cut a narrower binding or make your quilt edge wider. Both options will solve the problem.

  20. #20
    Super Member katesnanna's Avatar
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    I was taught to cut my backing and wadding 1/4" bigger than the quilt top and I never have any trouble with full binding.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by soccertxi View Post
    I am probably a minority, but I cut my binding @ 2 inches. I like a narrow binding.
    I just got a blue ribbon on my quilt. One of the things the judge liked was my narrow binding.

    When I trim my quilt, just before sewing on the binding, I leave a half inch or so beyond the raw edge of the top. The binding is sewn onto the quilt with a quarter inch seam from the edge of the quilt top. You need to do that to save your points on the border. Then I lay my quilt on the cutting board and trim with a ruler and rotary cutter to 3/8ths of an inch from the sewing if my binding is 2 1/2 inches. With a 2 inch binding, use the 1/4 inch line for trimming. I like to use different colored thread when the binding is sewn on so I can see that line through the ruler. I cut only about 6 inches at a time and always watch for the line on the ruler matching the sewn line. This way the width of the batt that needs to be enclosed is consistent.

    Then you iron carefully so the binding is pressed away from the quilt and the "ditch" is open and free.
    Fold the binding to the back and stitch in the ditch from the front. I used to pin this every inch or so, but didn't like being stuck every inch or so! ! ! Then I used the washable glue and ironed - - pasted - - the binding in place. That worked quite will. But I always need to pin the corners well. Now I can do it by just folding the binding to the back, hold it there with sixteen fingers and sew about six inches or so. I peek under when it is ready to sew and most of the time it is fine. Once in a while I miss a little. Then I go back and fix those spots, and you can't even see it from the front and it hardly shows on the back.

    The 2 inch binding is a little harder to do this way, but I have done it several times with not too much trouble.
    Mavita - Square dancer and One Room School Teacher

  22. #22
    Senior Member AudreyB's Avatar
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    I use a 2-1/2" cut binding then I use the regular foot that came with my machine. It makes the perfect seam width to have a full binding. Your regular foot may be different from mine, but I have found that most work just fine. It measures a 3/8" seam.
    AudreyB
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  23. #23
    Super Member copycat's Avatar
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    Many thanks for the wonderful tips.

    I will make practice samples using different widths for the binding strips and adjusting the amount of batting and backing remaining past the sewn seam line. So many great tips to try!!!!

  24. #24
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    great binding tips for those who machine bind.

  25. #25
    Super Member purplefiend's Avatar
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    I make my seam allowance a little bit more than a 1/4" and that helps. I also sew it to the back of the quilt first and then turn it over to the front like you do. Are you using a walking foot when you sew the binding on? My Pfaff has IDT( built in walking foot), it helps to keep the binding smooth.
    Sharon in Texas

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