Piecing. What am I doing wrong?
#21
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 125
I agree with Kalamaquilts. If seam allowances are accurate and are pressed without wrinkles, you shouldn't have to square up your block. Before starting any quilting project, I do a seam test as she described. Then throughout the piecing process I measure finished pieces to make sure I'm still sewing accurately. Should I have a problem then I can correct it before I get too far along. If you do this, your seams should nest together perfectly without a lot of pinning. However, that doesn't help you with your current dilemma. So, I suggest pin your seams as some of the other ladies suggested. It may be that since you have squared your block the seams may not match up at all. Wishing you good luck and happy quilting. I might suggest Harriet Hargrave's "Quilters Academy" books. They explain the fundamentals of piecing. She has published four books so far. The first one dealing with basic piecing of squares and rectangles and each dealing with progessively difficult piecing techniques, I had always preferred applique because I could never get my piecing to go together well (same as you are experiencing now), but since I bought and followed her techniques I can now piece with confidence, and it is so exciting to get your seams to match up without stress.
#22
Power Poster
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Northern California mountains
Posts: 12,538
When I first started quilting I had the same problem. I (eventually, lol) discovered that as I got to the end of the block I was piecing I let the fabric slip, ever so slightly, to one side and it ended up squint. Then, when I went to put the blocks together, everything would be 'off' just that little bit. Now that I mostly chain piece (and pay more attention to the end of stitching), my blocks are much better.
Also, someone told me, once you've nested your seams, to pin at a 45 degree angle, rather than 90 degree and leave the pin in until the foot is just on it before removing. This has worked for me.
(I don't leave pins in any more - all I'm saying is - I'm glad I wear glasses for close work )
Good luck!
Also, someone told me, once you've nested your seams, to pin at a 45 degree angle, rather than 90 degree and leave the pin in until the foot is just on it before removing. This has worked for me.
(I don't leave pins in any more - all I'm saying is - I'm glad I wear glasses for close work )
Good luck!
#23
Power Poster
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Western Wisconsin
Posts: 12,930
Try glue basting at the ironing board before you take your pieces to the sewing machine. First step is to push a straight pin down into the seams that need to match, right at the seam allowance. Once you are sure the pin is positioned so that the seams match, lift up the seam allowance on the top one and insert a tiny dot of Elmer's washable school glue (white). Close the seam and press for a few seconds with a hot iron. Remove the pin.
I find glue basting more accurate than pinning.
I find glue basting more accurate than pinning.
#24
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Pomona, California
Posts: 45
Thankyou so much ladies for all of your experiance suggestions. I can't wait to try these on my next quilt. It is a horrible feeling after all that hard work for the seams not to match up. I learn something new everyday. God bless
#25
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 4,829
When I first started quilting I had the same problem. I (eventually, lol) discovered that as I got to the end of the block I was piecing I let the fabric slip, ever so slightly, to one side and it ended up squint. Then, when I went to put the blocks together, everything would be 'off' just that little bit. Now that I mostly chain piece (and pay more attention to the end of stitching), my blocks are much better.
Also, someone told me, once you've nested your seams, to pin at a 45 degree angle, rather than 90 degree and leave the pin in until the foot is just on it before removing. This has worked for me.
(I don't leave pins in any more - all I'm saying is - I'm glad I wear glasses for close work )
Good luck!
Also, someone told me, once you've nested your seams, to pin at a 45 degree angle, rather than 90 degree and leave the pin in until the foot is just on it before removing. This has worked for me.
(I don't leave pins in any more - all I'm saying is - I'm glad I wear glasses for close work )
Good luck!
#26
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Small town in Northeast Oregon close to Washington and Idaho
Posts: 2,795
Guidelines 4 Quilting has a Prep-Tool that gives you an accurate 'scant' 1/4" seam. They also sell 'Seam Guides that stick to your sewing machine for that 'scant' 1/4" seam. They don't leave sticky residue and can be reused.
#27
Another thing I have noticed while piecing blocks is that if one of the fabrics is lesser quality than the other one, while sewing, even though the ends match prior to, your machine foot is pushing the top fabric toward you and your pieces will not end up even at the end. Always being off a smidge. This will make matching seams up even more difficult. This just shows me that not all fabric is created equal. I already knew that but it proved it even more to me. I had never noticed it before.
#28
All good advise given here...one more tip:
I use a corsage pin (thinner than a stiletto) to guide the fabric through my machine. It works really well at seam intersections, to get them to lie flat as they feed through the machine. And, it keeps the fabric feeding through evenly when you are coming to the end.
I use a corsage pin (thinner than a stiletto) to guide the fabric through my machine. It works really well at seam intersections, to get them to lie flat as they feed through the machine. And, it keeps the fabric feeding through evenly when you are coming to the end.
#29
#30
Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: New Port Richey, FL
Posts: 43
As a new quilter myself, I have had the same troubles. There are several suggestions her that work very well. I pre-wash and dry all my fabrics before starting, iron and starch them. I find that the starch helps keep the fabric from stretching when I cut it. Also, use the same ruler when cutting all your fabric for one project. As someone else here said, the lines may be slightly off from one maker to another. Next is to triple check your cut lines before cutting. I have rushed a project and sloppy cuts make for a poor outcome. Iron all seams, and yes, take the time to see how the seams will fall in your project. I pin everything, and make sure my intersections don't shift when I'm sewing them together. Also, if you have a little give in the length of one fabric over another, sew with the longer fabric on the bottom. The feed dogs on the machine should take up some of that give when you sew. I agree that you should learn where your 1/4" seem falls on your machine. Use painters tape to mark it on your machine, and that will help keep your place. This craft has a learning curve with it, but I love it. I also love this forum. I have learned so much just by reading what others have to say.
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