Mariah,
I got my walking foot for 19.95 at amazon. It works like a charm. Same one at 2 different lqs were 49.95 and 69.95.
Go figure...

Since I have been starching my fabric, matching seams has improved a lot. I also press seams in opposite directions so they will nestle. I always use my walking foot.

I really press the seams in the opposite direction so they butt up together better. I pin them until I get close to the seam. Good luck!

I got the walking foot for my Featherweight on eBay. I don't remember the price, but it certainly wasn't very expensive. I only use it for small projects.

On one of the professional's TV shows, they used a U shaped pin with a prong inserted on ea. side of the seam. She then inserted a reg. straight pin between the prongs & then removed the U pin. So I went out & bought U pins but forget to use them. Duuuh. I've often wondered if anybody actually uses them.

i also use glue on my seams, in fact Fons and Porter sells glue sticks, but I agree Eimer's glue just as well and much cheaper

I don't know where you live, but in Canada a walking foot for a feather weight is @ $40.00 I have 2 feather weights and had to buy walking feet for both. Just thought you would like to know.

Here is a link for the walking foot that fits the FW machines and several other old Singers. The link to purchase is on the page as well as the info you need about the foot it's self. It's $20.

http://blog.sew-classic.com/2009/11/...king-foot.aspx

ok I hope I can get this soou can understand it! m put pin in straight up and down in both seams right sides together. p erpendicular to fabric. pin horozontillay on either sideof first pin remove first pn and sew it always works for me

I pin parallel to the stitching line -- OUTSIDE the seam allowance. If seams are pressed in opposite directions, this should be sufficient. I also keep my Clover seam ripper on my machine deck to use as a stiletto with a little pressure. It is so fine that it goes right under the presser-foot to keep seam in place, yet it can be pulled out just before the needle goes down. I shouldn't say this, but I've never hit the ripper point with a needle (please don't let this jinx me!). I haven't tried glue, but have pinned like this: put a pin through the seam intersection of top piece, then continue the point through the intersection in the bottom piece. with the pin at 90 deg. of the fabric, pin (perpendicular) just before and just after the seam and parallel to the seam "boxing it in." Remove pins just before you come to them. For really tough intersections, do this AND do 4-6 basting stitches, then check accuracy before doing final stitches. Remove basting after stitching.