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zennia 02-14-2011 05:22 AM

Do you all using a walking foot? I just use my 1/4 in seam foot.

misseva 02-14-2011 08:27 AM


Originally Posted by hobo2000

Originally Posted by Mariah
thanks for your answer. I believe the stitch got too short. I was using this new gadget that makes snowballs, geese, ect, for the first time, and didn't notice the stitch got so short until I was taking some out.
I need to get a walking foot. I know it would be a great investment. Believe for my featherweight it would be $125.00. I know it would solve a lot of problems.
Thanks again!
Mariah.

A standard walking foot $14.95 will work great on FW. Thats what I use.

That's what I was going to ask. Mine cost $24.95 twelve yrs ago and I know they've come down in price since then. BTW my walking foot works on my new Brothers, Old Kenmore and old Singer (50s).

Will the generic ones not work on all machines if you have a low shank, etc.?

Prism99 02-14-2011 08:32 AM

I think the problem with using a standard short-shank walking foot on a featherweight is that the standard foot is wider than the feed dogs on the FW. Ideally you want a walking foot that matches the feed dogs exactly.

puck116 02-14-2011 09:30 AM

If I really want to be sure things line up, I use Elmer's SCHOOL glue and then touch with a hot iron to dry it. Has to be washable glue.

stitchofclass2 02-14-2011 11:46 AM


Originally Posted by Jan in VA
I pin just before the join at each intersection; I also use a stilletto to support/guide/direct my fabric under the needle, especially when the seam is pressed the 'wrong' direction for that intersection.

On particularly troublesome pieces -- some fabric just plain has a stretchy mind of its own -- I might make 4-5 stitches exactly over the joins and then go back and sew the whole piece.
Jan in VA

I use a stilletto also. You are able to hold the fabric in place until just before the needle goes into the fabric. I think that the idea to pin sooner is a great idea because even with a walking foot, the top of my fabric does "scootch" a little no matter what. Like and will use all of this tricks of the trade.

JUNEC 02-14-2011 06:36 PM


Originally Posted by Prism99
Glue baste the joins instead of pinning the joins. I do this at the ironing board. Align the seams as you want them, then put the tiniest dot of glue inside the seamline and press with the hot iron. I use Elmer's washable white glue. The glue washes out later or, if you need to open up the seam, comes apart if moistened with a drop of water from your fingertip.

Note: It is still a good idea to pin an inch or so before each seam. You can take the pins out as you get to them so you don't sew over them. This helps ensure that you don't have excess fabric on top or bottom when you get to the glue-basted seam.

What a great idea - thank you - Bookmarked

glennarogers59 02-16-2011 05:00 PM

I bought a Walking Foot at the Viking Dealer ( in Joan Fabric) gernic for 26.00 it works great on my Viking..The one for my machine was over 100.00

Annya 02-18-2011 02:09 AM


Originally Posted by Mariah
I realize this is a basic quilting question,but one I continue to have trouble with. When I sew rows of blocks together, I pin the joints and everything looks perfect. Then I tend to take out the pins as running over can cause broken needles.
Can anyone suggest how to get your blocks lined up perfectly at the joints without so much back tracking; fixing blocks that moved.
Thanks, Mariah.

I put a pin each side of the joins and only take out the pins when I reach each one. you could be turning the pin in the middle which moves the fabric slightly making the blocks off.


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