When Binding by machine....
 

How do you make sure that you don't get too much binding on the back side?

I always seem to get the right amount on the front and too much on the back, causing a lip of fabric.

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I usually use 2 1/4" binding, folded in half.

Hopefully you can see from the picture what I mean. There should be a lot less binding to the inside of the quilt on the back, shouldn't there?

Thanks.

Watson

I find binding by machine more difficult than it should be. Yes, mine turns out like yours and I don’t like it either.

I only did one very small wall hanging that way and it was tough. I went back to the regular way after that.

I make a sandwich with same batting and same fabric then make a test
with same binding fabric and same width. I don't get it right on the edge
but it's pretty close. Otherwise I get a lot of hit and miss then have to
redo it by hand which defeats the whole purpose of sewing the binding
by machine. You might have to adjust the width at which you sew your
binding a little. I like a larger binding on most of my quilts so I cut mine
2.5" and it finishes at 3/8". Or you could cut your binding a little narrower
like 2" and make a test.

I manage this adjusting how far from the edge I stitch when sewing the binding to the front.

Sew 4-6", then fold binding around and see how much of a lip there will be. Sometimes I even stitch it to the back, using a long stitch, if I'm not sure.

The lip is usually too wide, so I move the needle one click to the left (widening the seam allowance). Restitch that 4-6" chunk, then fold it over and check again.

Keep doing this until I have it just where I like it. I aim for less than a millimetre of lip sticking out.

Instead of pins or basting clips, I will often use strips of 1/4" wide double-sided fusible to attach the binding to the back. This way I can check the lip (approximately) as I iron it in place, and I know it won't shift as I sew it. Most of the fusible manufacturers make the 1/4" rolls; I've bought Wonder Under and Steam-a-Seam Lite at Joann's and Fabricland.

I only do machine binding. I cut binding 2 1/4 and sew on front with 3/8 seam. Run a tiny line of glue in the back stitch line, fold over binding so it just goes over the stitch line about an 1/8 inch or less and iron to set the glue. Then its just a matter of SITD from the front to catch the back.

I have used the Martelli tool for bindings and their stitch in the ditch foot when sewing both sides of the binding by machine and once I learned the technique, I found that it works pretty well. But even so mine is still never as neat looking as if I sew the back down by hand.

Susan Cleveland has a neat way of doing a piped binding completely by machine. It's different than the flange binding, but looks similar. I've done her method once and really liked the way it came out, but it takes some very careful sewing to get it right. She teaches the technique in one of her Craftsy classes.

Rob

I can't help you, Watson. I can't figure out how to do it either. I learned the hard way a long time ago that it takes me longer to do it by machine than by hand, especially when the stitches have to be frogged! :( So, I do mine by hand.

I think that's just the nature of that kind of binding. You could make your binding narrower (2") and get less of a lip, but you'd have to be extra careful to catch the back lip of the binding as you SID on the front.

This is what I do, too.

I usually cut my binding strip about 2-7/8 inches wide because I like a wider binding. (I think it should be a bit wider if I am going to sew the second stitching by machine.)

I chose that width because of the left-most needle setting on my machine!

But there is always a little bit of testing before I go very far around the perimeter.

I know of one person that sews her binding to the front, then wraps it to the back and glues the binding down - and then stitches in the ditch on the top to catch the back of the binding. I have not tried that yet, but it sounds feasible. Again - I would do a bit of testing to make sure I liked the look before going very far.

Watson, I hope someone else can help. I always have trouble with binding.
The best thing that works for me is to machine sew the front and hand sew the back. Frustrating!

I use 3/8 inch seam with binding cut at 2.5 inches. Make some samples and mark the allowance on sample.

If you use a 3/8 inch seam allowance, you have to stop at the corners 3/8 inch also. I stop at the 3/8 inch and then stitch off on an angle.

It took me a while to learn to ignore that "stop stitching 1/4 inch from the edge" instruction when it comes to bindings. Stop stitching the width of your seam allowance from the edge/end.

That only applies when one is stitching 1/4 inch from the edge when applying binding.

I have the same problem :) I think I will check into some of these tips

I did take a quilt class once and the teacher had an awesome tip and it work wonderfully. She had us sew to the front (I think - might not be remembering correctly) then when you flipped the quilt over she showed us how to "feel" where the binding was on the other side. That helped keep things even - and I did 2 quilts that way with her and I was sold on the technique - it really helped me alot.

the only problem that she also uses fusible batting. I like the fusible batting, but it just adds expense. I think this method would probably work with 505 spray - or maybe a quilt that was long armed.

since I am so tight wadded I maybe get 1 or 2 quilts long armed a year... and I can't get myself to spend the money on fusible batting. I use the elmers glue for basting and that leaves residue that I can feel so I can't feel my binding on the opposite side when I am sewing. Maybe some day I will win the lottery and money won't matter ha ha

I cut my binding at 2-1/2" wide, fold in half, press, sew it on with 3/8" seam on the back. Turn over and stitch to the front. I check to make sure all of the front binding is sewn down. Get it ready to be laundered, then on to the next quilt. If I made competition or heirloom quilts I might worry about how the back of the binding looks, probably not. If I am pleased then whomever gets it will be pleased too.

I use 2 1/4" binding too but I put it on differently. I stitch it to the back of the quilt first with about a 3/8" seam. Then flip it over to the front and sew it with an adjustable zipper foot. I hold 2-3" inches in place, with the edge just a hair over the seam line and sew the few inches, stop and place the next few inches, sew, etc. It tends to go fast when you get going, I'm always finished sooner than I thought I'd be. and I don't have all that extra binding outside of the seam.

Cari

I also struggled with this. I finally tried the faux flanged binding, and that's just about all I use. Yes, there's an extra prep step, but attaching it goes so quick it makes up for it.
https://www.quiltingboard.com/tutori...g-t200207.html

the same for me as well

I don't often bind with machine, but when I do I have better luck sewing to back first and then rolling to front and pinning and catching the very edge of binding in the needle. And one quilt I did I used the Faux flange method--two strips (I always have to YouTube this to get the widths) and then you sew in the ditch between the two from the front--works pretty darn slick!

I found that if I cut my binding strips 2 1/4” wide instead of 2 1/2”, I have less lip leftover. When I sew it from the front stitching in the ditch, I am usually also right on the folded edge on the back.

I’m certain this isn’t the “right” way, but I actually prefer to sew it to the back first, then roll it over to the front and stitch it that way. Easier, and I like the look better. I use 2 1/2” binding.

I have never figured this out either! I will have to make some sample runs to figure out what looks best. Meanwhile, I'll keep sewing on the front, and flipping to the back and hand sewing it. I actually really enjoy the hand sewing part.

I have done binding this way and have had the same issue. There were many good tips from the Quilt Board on the post I did on binding below that may help you. When you square the quilt, leave extra batting to make the binding fuller so when you turn the binding to the back it just covers the stitch line from attaching the front binding. I also use wonder clips to hold the binding. They have the marks on the clips that help you see that the binding stays the same width around the quilt as you attach it. (read post below to clarify)

https://www.quiltingboard.com/main-f...s-t289641.html

This is what I do, too, but I leave a little less than 1/4" of batting showing beyond the quilt top. That insures a nice, puffy binding. If I find it's too thick at the corners, I trim a bit. I use a walking foot for both sides.

I just use a serpentine stitch. catches enough of the back edge to keep it down and if it's not perfectly straight it doesn't show. I've seen other decorative stitches used too. Looks like part of the design and a great use for pretty threads

Since my arthritic hands won't allow me to do a lot of hand stitching, I do all my binding by machine. I use a 2 1/2" width of binding, sew it to the back, and then fold it to the front and machine stitch close to the edge. On the back the stitching is hidden in the fabric next to the binding using thread that closely matches the backing. I can do a queen size quilt binding start to finish in about an hour. My quilts are made to be used and loved, so I know the binding will not come unsewed any time soon. I have yet to hear any complaints.

I cut my binding 2 1/4 inches (I prefer bias binding in most cases), use 3/8 inch seam. I sew it on the back first and turn it to the front. I press the binding seam before turning it to the front. I hold the seam, as I stitch with an awl so the fold just covers the first stitching; on the back, the stitching is in the ditch. I an very happy with the result. I think the pressing is the key to success.

I have hand-sewn binding a couple of times, and the results have been pleasing. However, I am a machine person! I cut my binding strips at 2 1/2" then sew them to the back of the quilt. I do not press them; I want to avoid having to work with a crease when I roll the binding to the front.

When I bring the binding to the front of the quilt, I can decide the final width I want. I sew along the edge, measuring as I go with a hem gauge. I usually use a simple straight stitch. If I feel that a corner is a little loose, I take a needle and thread and invisibly sew that by hand. Since I do not do show quilts, I am not as concerned with the backs as I probably should be. There is usually a row of stitching along the back just outside the border, but so far no one who has received one of my quilts has complained.

The only hand sewing I do on bindings is the edge of the quilt label which is sewn onto the quilt back after the label is attached at the edges. If anyone wants to steal one of my quilts, they will have to destroy the binding to get the label off. I really doubt that that will happen.

I forgot to add that often the binding on the front is considerably wider than that of the back. The wider binding gives a frame to the design. Plus, I usually try to add enough fabric to my purchase or cutting to make sure the binding is done with fabric featured in the quilt top.

Yes, Rhonda, the 3/8 inch seam is the magic width for a 2.5 inch wide binding. But if you sew at 3.8 inch, you certainly will be sewing off your end points. What's the answer? The binding should be full, but that doesn't have to include the "top" fabric. I trim the quilt just before binding, but not close. Leave a half inch or so of batt and backing beyond the top. I sew the binding on with a quarter inch seam from the edge of the top.

After the binding has been sewn on, trim at exactly 3/8 inch from your sewing line.
This is enough to fill the binding. I use a 12 inch ruler and my rotary cutter to get it pretty exact. I cut only about 3 or 4 inches at a time. Then I trim a bit out of the corners; not too much. Now the binding has to be ironed open carefully. Give it a stretch to open that ditch completely and make it stay there.

I flip the binding to the back, take a peek to see if it is covering the sewing line, and stitch in the ditch from the front. That is the actual ditch, not next to it. I only pin at the corners.

I've done lots of large quilts like this, miss my mark only a few times. It's surprising how fast this goes, and that's the point in doing it by machine.

That's the way I do it also.

I cut my binding at 2.5" with a die cutter, stitch to the back with a 1/4" foot and then bring to the front and put clover clips on it, double check my corners and things, then I stitch it down, sometimes with a decorative stitch but usually a standard straight stitch.

Actually from everything I’ve read that Is the right way and the way I do it. Still like the look of hand binding better but in a pinch.. Hand binding is machine to the front and hand to the back. Machine is to the Back and then to the front. So the visible stitch line is on the back and it may be a ways out from the original binding seam line. If your bobbin thread matches the back it’s barely noticeable. If it’s not a baby quilt filament thread hides it even better. I saw another tip where you cut the batting/backing 1/4” wider than the front so it fills out the binding when you wrap to the front. Then wrap the binding gently so it’s just over the guide line. I’m still not great at it.

I'm with SusieQ.... besides that I like the way it looks more prettier and shows off nice. Time consuming though

I also sew to the back, roll to the front and sew just on the edge of the fold, holding it with a stiletto. I match my bobbin thread to the backing fabric however, as that is where I like my stitches to land. They blend in with the quilting and no one is the wiser.

Agree witih all the techniques. I put mine on the back by DSM and then fold over to the front and stitch a decorative stitch. Works for me. Plus and no this is not a commercia, I love binding clips. They have made an improvement in all the sewing that I do.

I do like sewing to the back first. Fold over to front and stitch down. I have more control where the stitching lands and can easily adjust if needed. Fun to use a decorative stitch too.

I match the bobbin thread to the backing fabric and it blends in well.

A great topic by the way!

what a timely post. Rryder, I also have the Martelli zip binding and quarter inch foot set-up. I am determined to make it work for me and have bound this week a total of 3 quilts and have 2 more to do. On the third one, it seems to be getting better. How many did you have to complete before it really started looking good? (I think my first two times - the batting that was way too fluffy). My last one was using warm & natural and I really liked that....so maybe that's the key...find a batting that you can get to work and stick with it? How much practice do I need until I feel it's good? I do machine binding for Quilts of Valor and Project Linus and really want them to look nice.

Susie, that's what I do also. I don't mined the time it takes to sew it down; I just want it to look neat.

2 1/4" folded in 1/2= 1 1/8 you are actually sewing with. If you use 1/4" seam, you are talking 1/2" on the front and 1/2" on the back, then you still have 1/8" left over which depending on the thickness of your batting. I don't like puffy batting so I use Warm and White or 80/20.
If you use a slightly larger seam then the math will work. Or you can cut your binding 2".
JMHO

Jennifer23 wrote an excellent description of how I do my bindings. Work out the width you need to be sewing right at the start and then follow thru for the whole binding.