Tips to FMQ with metallic thread?
#12
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Illinois
Posts: 2,140
I forgot that with such a thick thread, I can’t do the tiny bows that are 1/8” spacing. The thread just piles up in a mess ... especially when I have a thick thread top & bottom (normally, for the bobbin I’d never use thicker than a 40wt unless I was doing bobbinwork and had something lighter up top, but I liked how the back looks with metallic, too).
I’m changing my design (still outlining the print, but without details) to have a 1” spacing, which should still work for 4” coasters. No more thread problems now.
Thank you to all of you for helping me tonight. This new medicine seems to be affecting me more than I realized. I could have spent all night trying to figure this out if it weren’t for all of your help. QB members are the greatest!
#15
When I used metallic thread I had to put it in on a thread stand about 2 feet away from the machine. Sounds funny, but it worked because it gives the thread time to unwind before it starts going through the thread path.
Watson
Watson
#16
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 9,714
On my Bernina, I use an upright bobbin with the Sliver type threads to keep them from twisting. I also have to loosen my top tension quite a bit. And I always use a metallica needle. I don't know what the magic is with these needles but they seem to work really well.
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: N. Nevada
Posts: 953
It sounds like you are doing everything correctly. The only other thing is I've found with metallic threads is don't try to speed along like you do with regular thread. A nice medium speed seems to work best.
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