Unexpected Results Using Warm and Natural batting
03-17-2015, 08:17 PM
#41
Super Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: North-Central Indiana
Posts: 4,909
My reading of the APQS posted by Felinefanatic is that "bump is up" is wrong. According to Quilter's Dream and APQS, needlepunched batting should be set so that you are quilting from the same direction as the needle-punching. Which would have the holes against your quilt top and the bumps against the batting. It makes logical sense if you think about it.
hugs,
Charlotte
hugs,
Charlotte
03-17-2015, 08:39 PM
#42
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Camarillo, CA
Posts: 4,678
Here is information I just found on the Warm Company website on Warm and Natural Batting:
- Is there a top and bottom side to Warm & Natural?
- If you hold your Warm & Natural batting up to the light, you’ll notice that one side has flecks in it, natural leaf and stem remnants from the cotton plant. The other side does not. The side with the flecks should face your quilt top. The reverse side (without flecks) will go towards your quilt backing. (If you do not like the look of the cotton remnants showing through your quilt, I suggest our product Warm & White which uses bleached cotton.) This is not required, however it does make it easier to sew through scrim.
03-18-2015, 03:14 AM
#43
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Rancho Cordova, CA
Posts: 451
Ah, but wait; this is exactly OPPOSITE of what the Warm company says to do! The quilting needle should be entering the batting the same direction it was tufted to the scrim. The smooth side is the needle-in side; the bumpy side is the needle-out side. (I researched this when I had the same problem on some dark fabrics, and making sure the correct side of batting is next to the quilt top is what solves that problem for me.) This same method works for Warm and White.
03-18-2015, 03:26 AM
#44
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 836
Someone posted awhile back that they learned "dimples up, pimples down." Not a particularly attractive phrase, but more accurate.
I just imagine which way the needles go in and go from there.
hugs,
Charlotte
03-18-2015, 05:11 AM
#45
Power Poster
Join Date: May 2008
Location: MN
Posts: 25,198
Ah, but wait; this is exactly OPPOSITE of what the Warm company says to do! The quilting needle should be entering the batting the same direction it was tufted to the scrim. The smooth side is the needle-in side; the bumpy side is the needle-out side. (I researched this when I had the same problem on some dark fabrics, and making sure the correct side of batting is next to the quilt top is what solves that problem for me.) This same method works for Warm and White.
03-18-2015, 05:20 AM
#46
Power Poster
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Southern California
Posts: 19,127
WOW, they still have pieces of the bark in the batting!! When this batting was first produced. I use to pick out all the tree stuff embedded in the batting so when Hobbs 80/20 came out, I made the switch. I don't think that there is a right size with Hobbs is there even tho it has scrim in it??
03-18-2015, 05:24 AM
#47
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Nawth o' Boston
Posts: 1,879
I read the APQS link - thanks for posting - That was so well written and informative and SPECIFIC! It explained to me why puncturing a needle-punched batting is different than pulling the thread back up. Wow. I copied it to my Batting folder.
03-18-2015, 07:33 AM
#49
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Southern California
Posts: 390
Apparently I have been putting my batting in all wrong! I always layered my quilts with the smoother side up, then placed the quilt top over that. That said, I have never had trouble with pokies or bearding.
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