Very frustrated with my longarm
07-19-2015, 06:56 AM
#32
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Georgia
Posts: 258
Thanks so much for all of the suggestions. When I get home I will try them all. I have changed the needle. I use an 18. I have a magnetic positioned that helps me get it straight. I have adjusted the hopping foot to a dime space. Another thing suggested to me was to put a couple of drops of sewers aid on the thread. That helped with thread breaking.
I will loosen the quilt and see if that helps. I will let you know how that works.
Also I lowered the back bar. It seems very close to the machine. Is it normal to have to raise it as I roll the quilt on? There doesn't look like the would be room to roll on much.
I will loosen the quilt and see if that helps. I will let you know how that works.
Also I lowered the back bar. It seems very close to the machine. Is it normal to have to raise it as I roll the quilt on? There doesn't look like the would be room to roll on much.
07-19-2015, 07:03 AM
#33
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 284
You probably need to re-time your machine. the owners manual should explain how. Or look on youtube. they are so helpful.
I have a 10 year old Gammill.Bought new. I had it serviced early this spring.And every now and then I get skipped stitches,also about the same place.What I noticed is I was extending my arms very far out.Also a little sideways.Is it possible I was moving it crooked?I don't know.But when I quilt closer to my belly bar and straight on,I don't get those skipped stitches. Just a few thoughts.
I have a 10 year old Gammill.Bought new. I had it serviced early this spring.And every now and then I get skipped stitches,also about the same place.What I noticed is I was extending my arms very far out.Also a little sideways.Is it possible I was moving it crooked?I don't know.But when I quilt closer to my belly bar and straight on,I don't get those skipped stitches. Just a few thoughts.
07-19-2015, 12:06 PM
#34
Super Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Littlefield, TX, USA
Posts: 1,077
Theresa
Did you try loosening the poles, and turning them slightly, as the group suggested? It may help. Did you put a drop of oil on the wheels? I think I suggested that in an email to you. Did you get the info I posted (I also think I may have emailed it to you) on how to adjust the bobbin & top tensions.
By leveling the bars...are you talking about leveling the frame as a whole, or adjusting the height of the belly and take up bars?
If I recall correctly, we have the same machine. If you know the exact area that the skips are happening in, put a dot on the side of your encoders (I think we mentioned this also), near the edge...roll the machine (turned of, or not stitching) slowly along and see if that dot stops moving anywhere. If it does...that's the issue.
Also, I mentioned to you (or someone on group) to check all the bolts/screws in the frame...especially those holding the poles...if they become loose (they can over time)...the wood bracket holding the pole will separate from the frame & the pole will drop a tiny bit in that area. Check them.... make sure the entire frame (including the carriages) are level in all directions.
Try one size larger needle. I get mine on ebay from either Sharp Sewing or NgoSew (both are ebay shops)...I use a 21.
Did you ever post whether the machine skips in manual mode? Does it? Did you ever tell us if the machine is skipping stitches, or just not picking up the bobbin thread?
If it's skipping, or giving long stitches, there won't be any holes under the long stitches. If there are holes under the long stitches...then the needle is not picking up the bobbin thread...this would be a needle/timing issue.
Get a hold of the company. Even if you are out of warranty...they will help troubleshoot your issues. Their customer service has improved over the past 6 years.
Go to the tinlizzie18.com website and register your machine (if you haven't already). This is not so they can tell you it's out of warranty...it's so they have the model number off the side of the machine, and when and where you got it....even if you got it used. It let's them pull up information on machines from the same time and see if any others had the same issues.
If you can answer the above questions, we can better help you. NO, I am not employed by TL company, I'm a happy TL18LS w/qbot v3 owner. My 2009 TL has had issues in the past...99% or more are user error...but I have worked through them all....well most of them, lol.
These are NOT your home sewing machines on a frame. They are computerized, and there is also a chip in each encoder. Did you see the post where I explained how the encoders to machine to needle works? This is one thing I'm still guilty of...moving the machine faster than the encoders to machine to needle can compute. Especially on corners...if you quilt a square (I also do 5 point stars like we made in school)...at each point, make sure to say "dot" and let the machine take an extra stitch before you change directions (got this from a professional quilter's youtube video). Going around curves...also slow down there.
I really feel that folks should use the manual stitch until they have full control of the machine...it takes practice in manual mode to get nice even stitches (in manual mode, the needle moves as soon as you hit the start button...and stitch length is determined by how fast/slow you move the machine). In regulated (LizzieStitch) mode.. when you hit the start button, the machine does not stitch until you move the machine.
Have you tried the computer mode? Hold down the LizzieStitch button and keep it down while you turn on the machine...you will hear two beeps and then a long beep (well long until you let go of the LS button). With the computer mode...when you hit the start button, the needle will start to move up and down slowly...and will start the regulated stitch length stitching when you move the machine. I use this mode whether I am using the Qbot robot quilter or not. I like that it gives me time to think or adjust my fingers out of the way without having to hit the stop button. It will also let you take tiny stitches to lock the start & stops.
Oh...you said you scrubbed the poles with a scrubbie...did you wipe them down after? I also spray some furniture polish (Behold or even the cheap brands) onto a cloth & wipe the poles down after using the scrubbie.
Lastly...try taking two or three pennies...and tape them to the arm of the encoders...it may help if your poles are sagging in an area.
I really hope this helps
Marge Campbell
TinLizzieLongarm Yahoo group moderator
TL18LS (2009 model) Wood frame
Qbot V3 robot
Did you try loosening the poles, and turning them slightly, as the group suggested? It may help. Did you put a drop of oil on the wheels? I think I suggested that in an email to you. Did you get the info I posted (I also think I may have emailed it to you) on how to adjust the bobbin & top tensions.
By leveling the bars...are you talking about leveling the frame as a whole, or adjusting the height of the belly and take up bars?
If I recall correctly, we have the same machine. If you know the exact area that the skips are happening in, put a dot on the side of your encoders (I think we mentioned this also), near the edge...roll the machine (turned of, or not stitching) slowly along and see if that dot stops moving anywhere. If it does...that's the issue.
Also, I mentioned to you (or someone on group) to check all the bolts/screws in the frame...especially those holding the poles...if they become loose (they can over time)...the wood bracket holding the pole will separate from the frame & the pole will drop a tiny bit in that area. Check them.... make sure the entire frame (including the carriages) are level in all directions.
Try one size larger needle. I get mine on ebay from either Sharp Sewing or NgoSew (both are ebay shops)...I use a 21.
Did you ever post whether the machine skips in manual mode? Does it? Did you ever tell us if the machine is skipping stitches, or just not picking up the bobbin thread?
If it's skipping, or giving long stitches, there won't be any holes under the long stitches. If there are holes under the long stitches...then the needle is not picking up the bobbin thread...this would be a needle/timing issue.
Get a hold of the company. Even if you are out of warranty...they will help troubleshoot your issues. Their customer service has improved over the past 6 years.
Go to the tinlizzie18.com website and register your machine (if you haven't already). This is not so they can tell you it's out of warranty...it's so they have the model number off the side of the machine, and when and where you got it....even if you got it used. It let's them pull up information on machines from the same time and see if any others had the same issues.
If you can answer the above questions, we can better help you. NO, I am not employed by TL company, I'm a happy TL18LS w/qbot v3 owner. My 2009 TL has had issues in the past...99% or more are user error...but I have worked through them all....well most of them, lol.
These are NOT your home sewing machines on a frame. They are computerized, and there is also a chip in each encoder. Did you see the post where I explained how the encoders to machine to needle works? This is one thing I'm still guilty of...moving the machine faster than the encoders to machine to needle can compute. Especially on corners...if you quilt a square (I also do 5 point stars like we made in school)...at each point, make sure to say "dot" and let the machine take an extra stitch before you change directions (got this from a professional quilter's youtube video). Going around curves...also slow down there.
I really feel that folks should use the manual stitch until they have full control of the machine...it takes practice in manual mode to get nice even stitches (in manual mode, the needle moves as soon as you hit the start button...and stitch length is determined by how fast/slow you move the machine). In regulated (LizzieStitch) mode.. when you hit the start button, the machine does not stitch until you move the machine.
Have you tried the computer mode? Hold down the LizzieStitch button and keep it down while you turn on the machine...you will hear two beeps and then a long beep (well long until you let go of the LS button). With the computer mode...when you hit the start button, the needle will start to move up and down slowly...and will start the regulated stitch length stitching when you move the machine. I use this mode whether I am using the Qbot robot quilter or not. I like that it gives me time to think or adjust my fingers out of the way without having to hit the stop button. It will also let you take tiny stitches to lock the start & stops.
Oh...you said you scrubbed the poles with a scrubbie...did you wipe them down after? I also spray some furniture polish (Behold or even the cheap brands) onto a cloth & wipe the poles down after using the scrubbie.
Lastly...try taking two or three pennies...and tape them to the arm of the encoders...it may help if your poles are sagging in an area.
I really hope this helps
Marge Campbell
TinLizzieLongarm Yahoo group moderator
TL18LS (2009 model) Wood frame
Qbot V3 robot
Originally Posted by glassnquilts
I have a Tin Lizzie longarm machine. I have been struggling with skipped stitches. I have been asking on another forum about how to help. I think they have given my all the advice they can. Maybe someone here can help. Here is a list of what I have tried.
1. I scrubbed the poles with a scotch brand scrubby.
2. I have leveled my bars.
3. I have adjusted the tension.
4. I have changed the o rings on my encoders.
5. I have cleaned the encoders, bobbin casing, wheels, and everything else I can clean.
6. I have changed my needle, straightened it, and made sure it is as far into place as it will go.
7. I have adjusted the bobbin tension.
The skips happen in the same general latitude if that makes sense, about 4 inches from the back bar.
Anyone have any ideas? I am desperate.
1. I scrubbed the poles with a scotch brand scrubby.
2. I have leveled my bars.
3. I have adjusted the tension.
4. I have changed the o rings on my encoders.
5. I have cleaned the encoders, bobbin casing, wheels, and everything else I can clean.
6. I have changed my needle, straightened it, and made sure it is as far into place as it will go.
7. I have adjusted the bobbin tension.
The skips happen in the same general latitude if that makes sense, about 4 inches from the back bar.
Anyone have any ideas? I am desperate.
07-19-2015, 12:16 PM
#35
Super Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Littlefield, TX, USA
Posts: 1,077
Yes...if the quilt is too tight on the frame, you can and will get skips. Also...if the back takeup bar is too high, you will get pokies/loopies and skipped stitches.
When you set the hopping foot:
Have the hopping foot in the DOWN position
Needle in the DOWN position
Loosen the screw.
Slide a dime under the foot
Tighten the screw & remove the dime (I come from a brain deficient family)
Raise the needle.
This is the proper way to adjust the hopping foot. For thick seams (centers of pinwheels, etc.)...a penny or quarter can be used instead of the dime.
You should barely be able to fit the very tips of your fingers (half the distance of your nails) under the take up bar...the quilt backing should just rest of the bed of the machine.
You should also be able to push up from the underside of the quilt with the fingers of one hand, and be able to grab them with your other hand, if not...loosen the quilt a couple clicks & try again.
Side clamps are not meant to stretch the backing tight...they are to hold the quilt at the level of the machine bed. I actually use adjustable curtain rods to hold the side clamps up out of the way of my machine's extension table (I made my own and it's kinda wide).
Also...I really don't think your machine is out of time...if it were...you would get holes under the long stitches..as when out of time, the needle goes into the quilt, but can't pick up the bobbin thread.
Always leave timing to the very last resort when troubleshooting the machine.
Marge
When you set the hopping foot:
Have the hopping foot in the DOWN position
Needle in the DOWN position
Loosen the screw.
Slide a dime under the foot
Tighten the screw & remove the dime (I come from a brain deficient family)
Raise the needle.
This is the proper way to adjust the hopping foot. For thick seams (centers of pinwheels, etc.)...a penny or quarter can be used instead of the dime.
You should barely be able to fit the very tips of your fingers (half the distance of your nails) under the take up bar...the quilt backing should just rest of the bed of the machine.
You should also be able to push up from the underside of the quilt with the fingers of one hand, and be able to grab them with your other hand, if not...loosen the quilt a couple clicks & try again.
Side clamps are not meant to stretch the backing tight...they are to hold the quilt at the level of the machine bed. I actually use adjustable curtain rods to hold the side clamps up out of the way of my machine's extension table (I made my own and it's kinda wide).
Also...I really don't think your machine is out of time...if it were...you would get holes under the long stitches..as when out of time, the needle goes into the quilt, but can't pick up the bobbin thread.
Always leave timing to the very last resort when troubleshooting the machine.
Marge
Originally Posted by glassnquilts
Thanks so much for all of the suggestions. When I get home I will try them all. I have changed the needle. I use an 18. I have a magnetic positioned that helps me get it straight. I have adjusted the hopping foot to a dime space. Another thing suggested to me was to put a couple of drops of sewers aid on the thread. That helped with thread breaking.
I will loosen the quilt and see if that helps. I will let you know how that works.
Also I lowered the back bar. It seems very close to the machine. Is it normal to have to raise it as I roll the quilt on? There doesn't look like the would be room to roll on much.
I will loosen the quilt and see if that helps. I will let you know how that works.
Also I lowered the back bar. It seems very close to the machine. Is it normal to have to raise it as I roll the quilt on? There doesn't look like the would be room to roll on much.
07-19-2015, 12:26 PM
#36
Super Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Littlefield, TX, USA
Posts: 1,077
YES, you raise the takeup bar as you roll the quilt. That is normal. As you roll the quilt, you will just have less and less room for quilting...as the rolled part of the quilt will take up some of that space. I start out with about 14" of quilt space front to back...as I roll a 100" long quilt with medium batting...I end up with about 11-12" of space. Because I know this...I won't do a design greater than 11" tall...that way I don't have issues when I'm on the last row or two of a quilt.
Some have installed "Dead Bars" that help eliminate this necessity...but, I'm frugal and didn't invest it one, I may someday, but it's not a huge need right now.
I think Kaye on our TLL group has the dead bar for sale...ask her on group. Someone else did also. This may be of help to you. The dead bar rests just on the quilt top, holding it in the proper placement on the bed of the machine. The pole is up above the dead bar and keeps the rolled top portion from resting on the bed of the machine...hard to describe, since I've only seen pics.
Also, make sure your belly bar (front bar the backing attaches to) is set so the backing rests just barely on the bed of the machine. If it's too high or low...you will have issues also.
Marge
Some have installed "Dead Bars" that help eliminate this necessity...but, I'm frugal and didn't invest it one, I may someday, but it's not a huge need right now.
I think Kaye on our TLL group has the dead bar for sale...ask her on group. Someone else did also. This may be of help to you. The dead bar rests just on the quilt top, holding it in the proper placement on the bed of the machine. The pole is up above the dead bar and keeps the rolled top portion from resting on the bed of the machine...hard to describe, since I've only seen pics.
Also, make sure your belly bar (front bar the backing attaches to) is set so the backing rests just barely on the bed of the machine. If it's too high or low...you will have issues also.
Marge
Originally Posted by glassnquilts
Thanks so much for all of the suggestions. When I get home I will try them all. I have changed the needle. I use an 18. I have a magnetic positioned that helps me get it straight. I have adjusted the hopping foot to a dime space. Another thing suggested to me was to put a couple of drops of sewers aid on the thread. That helped with thread breaking.
I will loosen the quilt and see if that helps. I will let you know how that works.
Also I lowered the back bar. It seems very close to the machine. Is it normal to have to raise it as I roll the quilt on? There doesn't look like the would be room to roll on much.
I will loosen the quilt and see if that helps. I will let you know how that works.
Also I lowered the back bar. It seems very close to the machine. Is it normal to have to raise it as I roll the quilt on? There doesn't look like the would be room to roll on much.
07-19-2015, 12:41 PM
#37
Super Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Littlefield, TX, USA
Posts: 1,077
The TL company now handles the support. There was an issue with some dealers not supporting the machines after they sold them. They have been weeded out...though a few may still exist.
I've got the same machine as Theresa, and service at the start (2009) was not good. My dealer dropped the Shirley Stitcher when she couldn't get help learning to use it. She got a qbot instead (which I also got & love it).
I finally started sending the messages from disgruntled users to Ernie at TL company...and mentioned that with the internet...one unhappy user can really hurt the company. They started making changes...they still, being a family owned company, have an issue with weekends & show times (when they are doing the show). They are working on that. You register your machine online (http://www.tinlizzie18.com), and they then have your info saved. You don't have to be under warranty to get help...you may have to pay for parts, if needed...but if they can walk you through a fix, they will. When you request help...you do need to leave them some information:
Model number from the side of the machine, and which machine.
Where you got it from (dealer, even if no longer in existence).
Your Name, email and phone number.
When you will be able to be beside your machine, with a phone on speaker, or someone to relay suggestions.
I got a call on a Friday night, I wasn't home, so told the tech I'd be home at 9 am on Saturday morning... he called the next morning at 9am.
I have had to wait over a weekend, as they were all at two different shows...but I knew that already.
I have worked in the customer service field for over 30 years...and I think that helped when I talked to Ernie and Issac about the service issues...they knew I wasn't just complaining...I was relaying what I learned worked for me and the companies I worked for. I still consider that I am in customer service...quilting for the public.
TinLizzie18 now has learning centers around the USA...You can find more info on their website. I haven't needed to take the classes...my Lizzie is not my first machine...so I had bit of knowledge from the get go.
But as far as service... the TL company has really stepped up their game.
Nope, don't work for them or with them...just a happy TL18LS owner.
I've got the same machine as Theresa, and service at the start (2009) was not good. My dealer dropped the Shirley Stitcher when she couldn't get help learning to use it. She got a qbot instead (which I also got & love it).
I finally started sending the messages from disgruntled users to Ernie at TL company...and mentioned that with the internet...one unhappy user can really hurt the company. They started making changes...they still, being a family owned company, have an issue with weekends & show times (when they are doing the show). They are working on that. You register your machine online (http://www.tinlizzie18.com), and they then have your info saved. You don't have to be under warranty to get help...you may have to pay for parts, if needed...but if they can walk you through a fix, they will. When you request help...you do need to leave them some information:
Model number from the side of the machine, and which machine.
Where you got it from (dealer, even if no longer in existence).
Your Name, email and phone number.
When you will be able to be beside your machine, with a phone on speaker, or someone to relay suggestions.
I got a call on a Friday night, I wasn't home, so told the tech I'd be home at 9 am on Saturday morning... he called the next morning at 9am.
I have had to wait over a weekend, as they were all at two different shows...but I knew that already.
I have worked in the customer service field for over 30 years...and I think that helped when I talked to Ernie and Issac about the service issues...they knew I wasn't just complaining...I was relaying what I learned worked for me and the companies I worked for. I still consider that I am in customer service...quilting for the public.
TinLizzie18 now has learning centers around the USA...You can find more info on their website. I haven't needed to take the classes...my Lizzie is not my first machine...so I had bit of knowledge from the get go.
But as far as service... the TL company has really stepped up their game.
Nope, don't work for them or with them...just a happy TL18LS owner.
Originally Posted by Onebyone
Most all the reviews posted about Tin Lizzy customer service have been negative. Two guild members have a Tin Lizzie and they have had nothing but trouble with customer service. One was told sorry, we can't help you, call your dealer. The dealer died a year after the machine was bought.
07-19-2015, 12:46 PM
#38
Super Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Littlefield, TX, USA
Posts: 1,077
There are two TinLizzie groups on Yahoo (probably more, but two I am aware of):
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TinLizzieLongarm
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/tinlizzie/info
Marge
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TinLizzieLongarm
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/tinlizzie/info
Marge
Last edited by margecam52; 07-19-2015 at 12:49 PM. Reason: url inccorect...fixed
07-19-2015, 01:51 PM
#39
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Georgia
Posts: 258
I have just finished the little quilt I had on my frame. I checked all of the things that you recommended except for the timing. I had already done a lot of work on it. I think my latest problem, however was caused by something very stupid. I believe that the skipping this time was caused by a cord that got between the sets of wheels on the bar. The machine was sticking on that. I know that was not my original problem but all of the other things that I did solved the problem until I put this quilt on.
I cannot thank you all enough for all of your advice. I am going to save it all in a file on my computer so that if I have problems with skipping again, I will know what to check. I hope I don't but this machine has been nothing if not touchy since I got it 5 years ago.
I cannot thank you all enough for all of your advice. I am going to save it all in a file on my computer so that if I have problems with skipping again, I will know what to check. I hope I don't but this machine has been nothing if not touchy since I got it 5 years ago.
07-19-2015, 06:02 PM
#40
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: At my laptop
Posts: 280
If this has been suggested already.....sorry, I didn't read all 4 pages of comments. Check the height of your back take up bar. (the one when you advance the quilt, that it rolls on to. If it's to high that problem could occur. Adjust it down just enough for your fingers to pass under it. (between the bar and the machine)
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