Why do my flying geese look so bad?
#81
Just finished making several flying geese using the one seam method that I learn recently at my quilting guild's school house night. They are quick and easy to make. Points look good too. I'm using them as roofs for houses.
#82
Super Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Littlefield, TX, USA
Posts: 1,077
Like someone else mentioned...don't cut the back section off right away. What I do is draw my lines...match the corner of the square to the corner of the rectangle...pin...one pin right in the center of the line...check to be sure the corner of the square is still exactly meeting at the corner of the rectangle. Sew just on the line, using 50 or 60 wt thread (I like serger thread, though it says it's 50 wt..it's much thinner...and stronger than sewing thread).
Now...instead of cutting, fold out the square so the inside corner matches the outside corner of the rectangle. PRESS..you have to press.
Do the same for the other side...and yes, this square is going to overlap the first stitching line...it's supposed to.
Once you press out the 2nd side same as you did the first...check the point...where the squares meet at the center of the rectangle...you should have about 1/4" seam allowance before the point starts.
Now is when I open out the square...sew 1/2" from the first seam line...and cut between the seams...this gives you a small half square bonus triangle from each side of the rectangle...you could just trim the seam...but I try to avoidwaste where I can.
Now, you want to check the size...if it's a hair too large...trim from the right left and bottom...never from the point. If it's less than 1/8" short...I adjust by stitching right next to the original seams...then I remove the original stitching. Once you have your flying geese pieces & want to sew them to a strip or another block...your point is your stitching guide...sew just inside the seam allowance...almost touching where the seams formed the point...but never over the x seam that forms the point.... X is the seam...top of the X is the seam allowance, bottom is the flying geese section...always stay just a hair above the center of the X...and your points will aways be right.
Another thing I do...if a direction asks for a measurement of 4-1/8"...I cut 4-1/4"...if it asks for 4-7/8"...I cut 5"...it's easier to trim a block down, than it is to make it larger by having to shorten the seam allowance.
Hope this helps.
Now...instead of cutting, fold out the square so the inside corner matches the outside corner of the rectangle. PRESS..you have to press.
Do the same for the other side...and yes, this square is going to overlap the first stitching line...it's supposed to.
Once you press out the 2nd side same as you did the first...check the point...where the squares meet at the center of the rectangle...you should have about 1/4" seam allowance before the point starts.
Now is when I open out the square...sew 1/2" from the first seam line...and cut between the seams...this gives you a small half square bonus triangle from each side of the rectangle...you could just trim the seam...but I try to avoidwaste where I can.
Now, you want to check the size...if it's a hair too large...trim from the right left and bottom...never from the point. If it's less than 1/8" short...I adjust by stitching right next to the original seams...then I remove the original stitching. Once you have your flying geese pieces & want to sew them to a strip or another block...your point is your stitching guide...sew just inside the seam allowance...almost touching where the seams formed the point...but never over the x seam that forms the point.... X is the seam...top of the X is the seam allowance, bottom is the flying geese section...always stay just a hair above the center of the X...and your points will aways be right.
Another thing I do...if a direction asks for a measurement of 4-1/8"...I cut 4-1/4"...if it asks for 4-7/8"...I cut 5"...it's easier to trim a block down, than it is to make it larger by having to shorten the seam allowance.
Hope this helps.
#83
Power Poster
Join Date: May 2008
Location: FL
Posts: 16,574
I bought her Wing Clipper ruler but haven't tried it yet. I bought it because I made her Rapid Fire Hunter's Star quilt and it came out wonderfully using her ruler for it. Look at her video's. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F7WQpzknLGg&lr=1
#84
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Eagle River, Alaska
Posts: 147
There are some great Youtubes about flying geese. I've learned a lot there and recently saw one where the geese were constructed a completely different way. Be patient, there is some b.s. in the beginning of the video up to about 2 minutes and then just hush up and watch. IT WORKS!! I've made gorgeous flying geese this way. No kidding folks this is a MARVELOUS way to make flying geese!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ue1mBo9968Y
#85
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 724
#88
Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 4
My quiliting buddies and I have been using a neat ruler called "Wing Clipper" by Deb Turcker. Check at your local quilt store. Works great everytime. website www.studio180design.net.
#89
#90
Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Michigan's UP
Posts: 96
For regular sized FG I use Eleanor Burns' flying geese rulers. I have two, one for 4x8"/2x4", the other is 3x6/1 1/2x3. For other sizes I use the Lazy Girl No Math or Marti Michell's Perfect Patchwork. Each has its advantage, but the Eleanor Burns' has the advantage of trimming to the right size as the last step. I taught a workshop on FG units at our quilt show -- five ways to make Flying Geese units. Eleanor Burns' Quilt In a Day Flying Geese Rulers are the best, but most costly. You can also get them in other sizes. Lazy Girls' and Marti Michell's are one ruler for many sizes.
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