Is there anybody out there still looking for a newbie to adopt? I've been on the site awhile, but today I began machine quilting. I've always hand quilted before. This machine quilting stuff is scary. I can't always find answers on the internet or in library books. And when I post questions on the main topic board, it always depends on a million different things as to whether or not someone sees your question and has the answer. Help?

lizcake>
What is your question? Here is a link to buy what I'd consider the BEST way to learn machine quilting techniques. http://www.ericas.com/quilting/tools/skillbuilder.htm
I started with the first book, 3 stitch panels, and the DVD..next step, etc.
Then I took a class from Sharon Shamber, her site has a variety of DVDs for diff. techniques.
http://www.sharonschamber.com/shoppi...c/Domestic.htm
Ask away...

I am new to the website but I have been sewing quilt tops for years. I professionally sew them for 2 quilt shops (local). I paper piece, machine applique, 3 dimensional, and anything else the bosses could throw at me. They like to challenge me. I make a average of 40-50 per year of all shape and sizes. Does that make me a veteran or am I still a newbie cause I just became a member?
BUT I am open to helping anyone who would like it. Check out my profile and introduction post if you would like to see a small amount of my work.

I am new at quilting and I am doing a doll quilt by machine. Brother 420. I have squares, shasing, and my border together. Do I next sew the binding to the top and then prepare for the backing and batting?

I would like to be adopted but I don't know enough terms and etc to sometimes ask the questions or understanding the answers!??

MiaMia, your binding is last, first sandwich your top, batting & backing, quilt these together, then add your binding. Some will sew this on and then fold it over and hand stitch the rest. Some handstitch the whole binding, some machine sew it all.

There are different quilting stitching... and we think "stiple" means the
squiggly small lines that won't touch each other.
Micro Stipple is no open space more than 1/4"
Stipple is no more than 1/2" space
Background is 1" space between stitching
Allover is 2" space
Edge to Edge (pantos) is 3-4" space
Meander is 6-8" space (should be used for Charity quilts)
Crap is loose stitching like a store bought bed comforter.
If your a long arm quilter, and someone asks you to practice on their quilt...
you don't practice, it's all work the same.
Explain these stitches, and have mini samples of these on actual variety of
blocks and plain fabric, so they can see the difference and how the stitching
would flow in a block (make a sample of asst. most common blocks, log cabin,
flying geese, 9 patch, etc).
Have a contract signed with your quilt owner, so she has picked the type of
quilting she wants, and charge accordingly...make sure she knows the charges you
placed to each type of stitch work (size).
Some charge by square inch, most common is 1-1/2 cents/sqin, and some charge by
the hour, and literally will keep track of each 15 minutes or hour they have
worked. If your hiring, ask if they keep track on a tablet the time they work
on the quilt. You do not pay/get paid, for "thinking" time of what to do, but
actual working/stitching time.

Make sure YOUR quilt when taking to a long arm quilter, is "fixed".
Clip all loose threads front AND back. Square up each block before you sew them
together, and in stages of your quilt, and sashing & borders kept even/squared
up. Pin borders on from middle to ends (NEVER end to end). And press your
seams so they do not bunch up. If you are finished, and you find the backside
has bunched seams, repress WITH STARCH to change the direction of seams. Set
seams before pressing to one direction or another, run the iron down the stitch
line, then fold the seam over and press again. STARCH IS GOOD.

Quilters will charge to pre-press, loading time avg. 1 hr putting your quilt on
the machine, the more problems it has, the longer.
Custom work (fancy stippling, feathers, details) COSTS! Either hire for edge to
edge or pantos work, or be prepared to pay dearly for detailed work. Long arm
quilters, your time is money, if you are uncomfortable, just say NO.

Ladies, a 60"x60" quilt, when you add a 10" border, you've doubled the square
inches of your quilt, expect to double the price also.
Quilters, you can do 3x(60"x60") quilts in the same time as 1(100"x100"king)
quilt.

When your quilting, your own or professionally, divide your quilt into those
folded quilt zones, and set goal/accomplish/repeat, and you'll finish in a
timely manner. Why practice on a quilt you've spend precious time and money on
quality fabric, to piece this lovely top.... practice on plain fabric folded
into quiltable zones, or on a crap basic quilt you'll donate for charity.

I'm available for adoption

I would be interested in your new way. I have seen my mil do the old and it looks tacky to me. It may just be her.

I have been quilting for about 4 years and would like to learn how do new ideas, and some challengeing pieces. I still have trouble doing a mitre corners. I love to applique from scratch. But I use heat and bond not the turn over. So please someone ADOPT ME.............I REALLY NEED A MOMMY

"Newbies" we have several asking to be adopted.
Could you contact 'us' by PM, click on our name to send us a private message. I think it be nice to get to know each other a little, and see if we can find a good 'match'...especially what you want to learn to what some have skills to help with.
When you contact a person who's there to help, share a little about yourself, and what you want to learn, what you know, how long you've quilted, anything you've done/made, so they have an idea what you're asking of the person helping/adopting.