Domestic imperial automatic/white automatic 651
#12
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: SW Pennsyltuckey
Posts: 111
Yep. That's the 1957 Domestic Imperial Automatic. It began life as a Gritzner-Kayser made Gritzner model GZ. These are (or can be) wonderful machines to use. They are equal in build quality to the Necchi models of the era. Sewing machine oil as advised on all the joints. Let it sit a day, then work the hand wheel some and see if it frees up, and repeat - eventually everything should free up. Gritzner sold those machines under their name, under the Kayser name, under the White (651) amd Domestic names, and the Kenmore (117.740) as well. Things to look for - is if you have any or all of the stitch cams (small black about the size of a half dollar) they are not easy to find. Keep track of the feet - the true G/K feet have those initials stamped into them. With enough oiling and turning the machine should begin to respond. Anywhere a rotating or revolving piece of metal meets another a little oil will help. Keep a shop towel under it to save counter surfaces from the oil. It may take a few days of oiling and turning and oiling and turning simply because Gritzer used such high tolerances. It's worth the effort. They're heavy, but wonderful machines. I don't have that model yet (darn it) but have several. Keep asking questions.
#13
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 22
Yep. That's the 1957 Domestic Imperial Automatic. It began life as a Gritzner-Kayser made Gritzner model GZ. These are (or can be) wonderful machines to use. They are equal in build quality to the Necchi models of the era. Sewing machine oil as advised on all the joints. Let it sit a day, then work the hand wheel some and see if it frees up, and repeat - eventually everything should free up. Gritzner sold those machines under their name, under the Kayser name, under the White (651) amd Domestic names, and the Kenmore (117.740) as well. Things to look for - is if you have any or all of the stitch cams (small black about the size of a half dollar) they are not easy to find. Keep track of the feet - the true G/K feet have those initials stamped into them. With enough oiling and turning the machine should begin to respond. Anywhere a rotating or revolving piece of metal meets another a little oil will help. Keep a shop towel under it to save counter surfaces from the oil. It may take a few days of oiling and turning and oiling and turning simply because Gritzer used such high tolerances. It's worth the effort. They're heavy, but wonderful machines. I don't have that model yet (darn it) but have several. Keep asking questions.
There are 5 cams in the drawer and some feet and they say the initials you mentioned.
#14
As far as the sound of the machine, motor or controller while slow vs fast, I'm unsure where to look or what to do. I'm guessing it is a resistor type controller and those can have kind of a grinding sound. Have you tried taking the belt off and trying to run the motor? Does it sound the same or different?
Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
Not affiliated with off-site link(s)
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: South of St Louis
Posts: 822
If you can get to the controller easily you may be able to open it up. I have opened several and found lots of lint and dust, and dirty contacts also, which I clean with QD Electronic Cleaner or very fine grit sandpaper (280).
You may able to clean up the motor as well, especially if it's external, which I can't tell from the pictures. Some motors will come apart easily, others not so much. Either way I use the QD on what I can readily, or the fine grit sandpaper to remove buildup if I can get to it (wash down with the QD after the sandpaper). You can maybe get fresh lubricant to the motor shafts also (I'm sure there are threads about the best lubricant). You have to be careful with the carbon brushes on removal and reinstalling them, they are kind of fragile, and can be hard or impossible to replace. I have dropped out a couple of internal motors just to use the QD where I can.
You may able to clean up the motor as well, especially if it's external, which I can't tell from the pictures. Some motors will come apart easily, others not so much. Either way I use the QD on what I can readily, or the fine grit sandpaper to remove buildup if I can get to it (wash down with the QD after the sandpaper). You can maybe get fresh lubricant to the motor shafts also (I'm sure there are threads about the best lubricant). You have to be careful with the carbon brushes on removal and reinstalling them, they are kind of fragile, and can be hard or impossible to replace. I have dropped out a couple of internal motors just to use the QD where I can.
#16
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 22
I think that since it has the cams, it would be a Gritzner model HZ. This would be according to https://www.naehmaschinenverzeichnis...inen/gritzner/
As far as the sound of the machine, motor or controller while slow vs fast, I'm unsure where to look or what to do. I'm guessing it is a resistor type controller and those can have kind of a grinding sound. Have you tried taking the belt off and trying to run the motor? Does it sound the same or different?
Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
Not affiliated with off-site link(s)
As far as the sound of the machine, motor or controller while slow vs fast, I'm unsure where to look or what to do. I'm guessing it is a resistor type controller and those can have kind of a grinding sound. Have you tried taking the belt off and trying to run the motor? Does it sound the same or different?
Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
Not affiliated with off-site link(s)
#18
Member
Join Date: Dec 2019
Posts: 8
https://m.bonanza.com/listings/domes...ons/1068418399
I'm not sure if you are still looking, but I came across this.
I'm not sure if you are still looking, but I came across this.