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    Old 05-13-2012, 02:42 PM
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    I would just add to what Miss Ticky described that you want to use a permanent Sharpie marker to make registration marks along your cut lines, so that later you can re-align the batting pieces exactly as they were when you cut. This can make a big difference in how easy it is to attach the batting!
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    Old 05-13-2012, 05:50 PM
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    in the MItchell book she folds back the batting on itself, leaves a quarter in seam and the trims the batting to an eightsh of an inch - so you have doulbe batting and the danger of cutting the fabric for the quilt tp risky for me! I will try your other suggestions and see what I can find, aren't lap quilts easier LOL
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    Old 05-13-2012, 06:20 PM
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    Originally Posted by Prism99
    I would just add to what Miss Ticky described that you want to use a permanent Sharpie marker to make registration marks along your cut lines, so that later you can re-align the batting pieces exactly as they were when you cut. This can make a big difference in how easy it is to attach the batting!
    Thanks Prism...that is a very good point
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    Old 05-13-2012, 07:07 PM
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    You can also use the triple zigzag stitch to bind your batting together as well, learned it in a class a couple weeks ago. I am just curious what is the easiest way to baste using these methods for people that have done quilt this way
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    Old 05-13-2012, 07:33 PM
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    Check out Cotton Theory and Quilt as you Go....both are great methods also Bayside Quilting has a template used for the method called Fun and Done there are videos on utube using the template with fantastic success
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    Old 05-13-2012, 09:08 PM
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    When I split the batting into thirds, I found the easiest way to re-attach is to butt the batting pieces together (this is where the registration marks are invaluable!) and use the iron-on tape. I have also used strips of fusible nylon tricot. (This might even be what the commercial strips are made of; I'm not sure.) There is no overlapping -- just butting. I have also done machine zigzag, but I think the iron-on strips are easier.
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    Old 05-15-2012, 02:52 AM
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    Originally Posted by dunster
    Marti Michell's book, Machine Quilting in Sections, describes several different methods of quilting in sections. I don't remember any method that involved doubling the batting.
    I use her method of making three sections of top/batting/back and then sewing them together after quilting. Works well for me using my Viking Rose. Sometimes I even add a border all the way around after putting the sections together. This works really well for samplers - I can do each block in the strip a little differently.

    I have also quilted individual blocks and then sewed them together but it's a little tiresome when you have a lot of blocks to put together.
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    Old 05-15-2012, 02:54 AM
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    Forgot to mention that when I put the sections together, I use that iron on batting tape to butt the pieces of batting right up next to each other.
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    Old 05-15-2012, 04:01 AM
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    A "new" old method in vogue now is the potholder quilt. Done a lot during the Civil War, where blocks were bound then stitched together into quilts. Not recommended for those who hate bindings!!
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    Old 05-15-2012, 04:08 AM
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    I googled this a while back for a large quilt- found all of these methods plus more. Came across one method where the quilter's top and back were divided, but in different sizes so that when she put them back together, the joining seam were not in the same place(top in half, backing in thirds) does this make sense? I have tried the reversible method and the method where you piece the batting back together after you quilt half of it-ended up with a wrinkle in that one. I have a book and there is a method where you piece the top or back together after quilting and then apply sashing over the seam i believe it's Conquer and Divide. That is the method i am using for my lighthouse quilt. The sashing/ binding strip will be part of the design element in the quilt.
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