Kassaundra

I think the sashing was added (by the original pattern designer) to avoid the 8 seam center, if you don't mind doing an 8 seam center it could be removed.

osewme

Thanks feline for your input. I chose to PP the block because I could not figure out the measurements to make it into an unfinished 12 1/2" block. Barb came up with a PP version on her EQ7. The original blocks instructions were for a 4 1/2" block here:

http://thecraftyquilter.com/2014/11/...comment-274166

I would prefer to not have to PP it as I'm so slow at that & don't have PP experience but have not come up with good measurements for a traditional pieced block. A smaller pieced block that I could just at borders to would be ideal. This block will be one of several that I want to make for a charity block drive that I participate in semi-monthly. Thanks for anyone's help & input.

feline fanatic

To make this block without PP I would make your HST to measure 3 1/4 unfinished to finish in the block at 2 3/4. Your inside sash cut at 1 1/2 to finish at 1". Your corner blocks would require cutting the dark orange square at 1 7/8 wide and your light orange at the same width. Assuming you strip piece those two, should end up with a strip set that measures 3 1/4 wide. sub cut those down to 1 7/8 x 3 1/4 units. You can then take another light orange 1 7/8 strip and sew that to the side to make the corner unit which should measure 3 1/4 square unfinished. Please test with scraps as I just figured quickly on paper.

Barb in Louisiana

These are the foundations for a 10 inch block and a 10 1/4 inch if you end up short on the 10. It is very easy in EQ7 to change the size of the blocks. Love this program.

illinois

Other than you are wanting to learn to PP, why have you chosen to do this block using that technique? It is a lot of half-square triangles and straight seams that should go together pretty easily without the paper. I'm up for easy and think to do this design with PP is making it more difficult.

leighway

I was looking closely at your block and you're going to lose the points of the stars in a couple of places...check the size of those half-square triangles...can you see what I mean? Paper piecing is usually very precise...are you staying within the lines? Maybe scootch over a bit to make the seam come out so that you get just a little more fabric where you'll need it for your points....be sure to use a thin thread..aurofill changed all my quilting accuracy to much better. Hope this is helpful.

baywinds

Barb, I love paperpiecing (I learned the Carol Doak method) and thank you for doing up this pattern in these different sizes. Question I have is, why are the dimensions not for 12 1/2" or 10 1/2". Doesn't a 12 1/2" make up to be 12" blocks etc? I know I'm missing something obvious. Thanks

Barb in Louisiana

I am only giving measurements for the finished block. I explained to osewme in a prior thread that the seam allowance was added to each block. You can see it if you open the pdf's. Osewme didn't get a big enough block when I did her a finished 12" one. It could be where she's sewing on the lines, or the thickness of her thread. So I changed the output to be a 12 1/4" block because she was a 1/4" shy of a 12 inch block. That should come out with the 12 inch finished that she wants. When she said she was thinking about making a 10 inch block and adding a border around each block, I gave her the two sizes 10 inch and 10 1/4 inch finished.

Personally I would have done this as a finished 12 1/2 inch block, making the corner sections as a 6 inch square and the sashing as 1/2 inch. But that is just me.

baywinds

Thanks, I missed that you were giving her the finished sizes, and I thank you again for doing these instructions. Sure wish I would spend the time to teach myself my EQ7.I've got it, just haven't sat down with it. Susan

carolynjo

I, for one, cannot paper piece. I am left-handed and dyslexic, so I gave up years ago, though I tried mightily.