Do you apply Elmers for basting like THIS?
04-01-2013, 07:15 AM
#51
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Northern California, Sonoma Co.
Posts: 2,814
I was really scared to do it for a long time, but now I just go at it like a mad woman and am not careful about it at all. I really hope this helps alleviate some of the fear for those of you who are really not sure about this glue basting. If I can do it in my haphazard way and never had a problem, I know you can do it! Feel free to pm me if you have any other questions I didn't answer here but I strongly suggest that you just go for it! (Use practice pieces of scrap fabric first if it makes you feel better.) Actually, after my experiences, I'm not really sure how you could do it "wrong!"
04-01-2013, 07:27 AM
#52
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: East Central Wisconsin
Posts: 679
I started with using lines in a cross-hatch manner, but now I do the dotting (picture B.) Someone once posted, "Not a lot, just a dot." I tried that and liked it. I dot the batting and then smooth the top over it and press with an iron to set. Then I turn it over and do the same thing with the backing and batting. Has worked very well for me.
04-01-2013, 07:41 AM
#53
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 460
here is a great video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a2hWQ5-ZccE
it is a good elmers glue binding tutorial
it is a good elmers glue binding tutorial
04-01-2013, 08:00 AM
#54
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Southwest Kansas
Posts: 4,820
It's plain old Elmer's white school glue, not a spray. It does not have to be in an even layer. Just squeeze thin lines straight out of the bottle. Wiggly lines, big swoopy lines, straight lines, dots, cross hatches, etc, etc. It doesn't matter.
The only thing is don't get too close to the edge if you're going to hand stitch the binding because it's hard to sew thru.
It seriously is not hard.
04-01-2013, 08:38 AM
#56
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: northern California
Posts: 1,098
For quilts I use the A format and I've been able to use my hands (gently, just a bit, because the fabric is sort of "wet" with the glue) to spread it a bit and make sure there are no wrinkles. When I have it all where I want it I do iron, which drys the glue. I can do a quarter of a large quilt very quickly and also have the ability to replace should a problem show up. After ironing the first side I do the top (I always do the bottom first). Should a mistake show up (as it did a couple of times when I first started using glue) I wet the spot, which disolves the glue. If it is in the middle I have the option of pinning that area or part of my quilting "line".
I use a very thin line of glue so spreading it isn't really an option, but it has also never been an issue. It beats pinning and/or expensive cans of lethal gases.
For small complicated appliques I have used glue sticks. I'd never use them on batting!
I use a very thin line of glue so spreading it isn't really an option, but it has also never been an issue. It beats pinning and/or expensive cans of lethal gases.
For small complicated appliques I have used glue sticks. I'd never use them on batting!
Last edited by Sierra; 04-01-2013 at 08:44 AM.
04-01-2013, 08:56 AM
#57
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 2
How would the glue method effect fabric that has not been prewashed. Should I be afraid that it would run. I do charity quilts and know that some of the fabric that is used has not been pre washed. In this case I would imagine that the less glue used would be better.
04-01-2013, 09:21 AM
#58
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 53
04-01-2013, 09:27 AM
#60
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Springville, Tennessee
Posts: 1,123
I tried the glue method for the first time adding my borders to a QAYG quilt, I thought it worked great and am looking forward to trying it on a big quilt. Am glad you asked this question, as I have been reading all these posts about elmers and wanted to know more. Thanks.
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