Making templates for a triangle in a square unit
07-01-2017, 05:20 AM
#1
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: MN
Posts: 24,388
Making templates for a triangle in a square unit
1) Decide on the size to make them
2) Draw the three triangles "finished size" - I think it is easier to have the three templates than to remember to "reverse" one of the side triangles.
3) Add 1/4 seam allowance - the blue in the attachment. When adding seam allowance, use this method: Measuring
4) Cut the pieces apart - more or less on the red lines. Then glue the pieces to template plastic.
5) Then I cut the templates with a rotary cutter.
5) I punch 1/16 inch holes where the seam lines intersect. I mark the fabric with a pencil dot for matching the pieces.
The hole puncher: http://www.joann.com/fiskars-hand-pu...n/5066253.html
It makes some sense to lop off some of that long tail on the skinny triangles, but I have found it easier to leave at least 1/2 inch seam allowance there - and then trim it after the pieces are sewn together.
The paper can be removed from the template plastic. It makes it easier to see what one is cutting - especially if one is doing fussy-cutting.
6) Place the pieces in a labelled baggie or envelope so you can keep them together.
If any questions - please ask.
This method works for any block/unit.
P.S. Make sure your graph paper "is the same" in both directions before starting. I have had some that has been "off" a bit.
2) Draw the three triangles "finished size" - I think it is easier to have the three templates than to remember to "reverse" one of the side triangles.
3) Add 1/4 seam allowance - the blue in the attachment. When adding seam allowance, use this method: Measuring
4) Cut the pieces apart - more or less on the red lines. Then glue the pieces to template plastic.
5) Then I cut the templates with a rotary cutter.
5) I punch 1/16 inch holes where the seam lines intersect. I mark the fabric with a pencil dot for matching the pieces.
The hole puncher: http://www.joann.com/fiskars-hand-pu...n/5066253.html
It makes some sense to lop off some of that long tail on the skinny triangles, but I have found it easier to leave at least 1/2 inch seam allowance there - and then trim it after the pieces are sewn together.
The paper can be removed from the template plastic. It makes it easier to see what one is cutting - especially if one is doing fussy-cutting.
6) Place the pieces in a labelled baggie or envelope so you can keep them together.
If any questions - please ask.
This method works for any block/unit.
P.S. Make sure your graph paper "is the same" in both directions before starting. I have had some that has been "off" a bit.
Last edited by bearisgray; 07-01-2017 at 05:34 AM.
Thank you!<3 This will be very helpful! 
Maybe now I can tackle the Storm@Sea quilt!
07-02-2017, 11:43 AM
#4
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: MN
Posts: 24,388
P.S.
A. I usually remove the paper. If one used washable glue, a quick soak/rinse in water will make it easy to remove.
B1. Draw the seam lines. Lead pencil or Sharpie type marker works.
B2. I also mark "base" on the center triangle of the unit.
C. Add sandpaper dots to the backs of the templates. The dots help keep the templates in place while cutting around them.
D. On this unit, I did cut off about half an inch of the skinny tail on triangles B and C. I still prefer to leave about 1/2 inch seam allowance on that tail. It's easier for me to handle it while sewing it to the A triangle- but I can't give a "logical" reason why that is so.
It does not take that long to make templates - and one can make them any size that one wants.
Another tutorial for making your own templates is here:
How to make plastic templates
A. I usually remove the paper. If one used washable glue, a quick soak/rinse in water will make it easy to remove.
B1. Draw the seam lines. Lead pencil or Sharpie type marker works.
B2. I also mark "base" on the center triangle of the unit.
C. Add sandpaper dots to the backs of the templates. The dots help keep the templates in place while cutting around them.
D. On this unit, I did cut off about half an inch of the skinny tail on triangles B and C. I still prefer to leave about 1/2 inch seam allowance on that tail. It's easier for me to handle it while sewing it to the A triangle- but I can't give a "logical" reason why that is so.
It does not take that long to make templates - and one can make them any size that one wants.
Another tutorial for making your own templates is here:
How to make plastic templates
Last edited by bearisgray; 07-02-2017 at 11:48 AM.
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