Antique Japanese Sewing Machine
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 2
Antique Japanese Sewing Machine
I bought this at Goodwill for $15 USD and need to get needles, bobbins, and cases for it. I have done some basic google research and the info I have lead me to this website so I joined it. Here are the pics. If anyone can help me much appreciated. I think its circa 50s-70s.
#5
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 15,506
I think it is missing more than the bobbin case. It might be missing the thing the bobbin rides in and the piece that it runs against. You might get lucky and a set from another class 15 machine might work. But is it a class 15? Usually the old class 15 bobbins are on the end. This bobbin is on the front. You need to find an old sewing machine guy with a pile of junk parts. Then you hope he isn't trying to sell you a new machine. It is still possible that class 15 parts could work some newer machines do use them. The bobbin case will need the wider needle hole. You either have a really nice machine or a piece of junk. I'd guess it is a nice machine once you get it going. I zoomed in. Maybe someone else knows - this isn't real clear.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]565837[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]565837[/ATTACH]
#6
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Central NY
Posts: 859
There may be a dial/lever missing just to the right of center on the top face . There is a slot with nothing in it. I think there is a name plate missing, too. Have you figured out whether it's a center or left homing?
#7
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Join Date: Mar 2011
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[ATTACH=CONFIG]565869[/ATTACH]
I doubt if that machine was worth $5
#8
I've spent entirely too much time looking for a similar machine.
Some thoughts I've had:
It looks to me that the last image Miriam enlarged has the badge missing and may have been "Empire," which when I googled, I got either the early 1900 machine company in New York, or the "empire waist" style of dress.
It kind of looks like it might be a cover or door, perhaps for cams. Maybe the arch area is how it is opened? Maybe hinged on the right or bottom?
It really is hard to see the bobbin/shuttle area and to see if the shuttle race body (retaining ring) is there or not. The hook looks stable, which I don't think would be there if the part to hold it in was missing. It almost looks like it might be a one o'clock bobbin case.
My Atlas model AAZ-60 has the 15 class front facing bobbin & case.
Some of the places I've seen model names/numbers on Japanese made machines is on the front plate on the pillar, the inside of the pillar near the bed facing the needle, and as in the case of my Atlas on the back of the pillar, which wasn't visible until the motor was removed.
Nice that it is a low shank machine.
Looks like the wiring is decent. I spent $20 for a used motor block cord and controller for a Franklin machine, as I didn't have an extra at the time. The cord was all twisted, but worked.
I thought it might be a "Fleetwood" because of the "f" on the nose plate, however, it isn't as fancy as the Fleetwood machines I found pictures of.
I didn't notice any JA or JC numbers.
I did see a White zig zag machine that had a larger FZ serial number. Unfortunately, I can't find it again. (Maybe FZ could be a serial number for "family zigzag" like White's FR stood for "family rotary.")
The hand wheel is similar to a White 650, which is a straight stitch machine.
Good luck on getting it sewing.
Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
Some thoughts I've had:
It looks to me that the last image Miriam enlarged has the badge missing and may have been "Empire," which when I googled, I got either the early 1900 machine company in New York, or the "empire waist" style of dress.
It kind of looks like it might be a cover or door, perhaps for cams. Maybe the arch area is how it is opened? Maybe hinged on the right or bottom?
It really is hard to see the bobbin/shuttle area and to see if the shuttle race body (retaining ring) is there or not. The hook looks stable, which I don't think would be there if the part to hold it in was missing. It almost looks like it might be a one o'clock bobbin case.
My Atlas model AAZ-60 has the 15 class front facing bobbin & case.
Some of the places I've seen model names/numbers on Japanese made machines is on the front plate on the pillar, the inside of the pillar near the bed facing the needle, and as in the case of my Atlas on the back of the pillar, which wasn't visible until the motor was removed.
Nice that it is a low shank machine.
Looks like the wiring is decent. I spent $20 for a used motor block cord and controller for a Franklin machine, as I didn't have an extra at the time. The cord was all twisted, but worked.
I thought it might be a "Fleetwood" because of the "f" on the nose plate, however, it isn't as fancy as the Fleetwood machines I found pictures of.
I didn't notice any JA or JC numbers.
I did see a White zig zag machine that had a larger FZ serial number. Unfortunately, I can't find it again. (Maybe FZ could be a serial number for "family zigzag" like White's FR stood for "family rotary.")
The hand wheel is similar to a White 650, which is a straight stitch machine.
Good luck on getting it sewing.
Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
Last edited by OurWorkbench; 01-17-2017 at 05:33 AM.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 311
It is a twin needle sewing machine and yes it is missing the bobbin shuttle, bobbin case and bobbin. You will have to try different parts to see if they work. I have done this Before. A lot of machines were manufactured in Japan and labeled different brands for the United States. When doing this slowly turn the wheel toward you to see how the needle goes down and the clearance and how the shuttle, bobbin case etc. react. You will want to look for a good fit first. I would try a Kenmore, dressmaker, and white. Certain models on these are interchangeable with the Japanese brands. As far as needles, you will have to try different ones. You will not be able to do this until you get all the parts for the bobbin area. When you get that area fixed then slide off the plate, place a needle in and watch the clearance to make sure the needle will pick up the thread but not hit the race. Good luck.
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