kathrynshome

I just bought a Pheonix and need a manual. I will be picking this machine up in a few days, so not sure of the exact model number but it is the green free arm model, I believe the 282F or 283F. Can you tell me where you got your service manual and regular manual. I was told that the original manual is with the machine, however it is in German. Can't seem to post a picture of the machine today, but it can be viewed at this link. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...5142719&type=3

Mickey2

The picture link doesn't work from my computer.

I think there's a link in this thread some where (or another thread on the 283F.) This is a link to the first part of a manual for the 282/282F (second part here). The manual is close enough to work for both machines. The 283 have a cam stack in the back that takes four replaceable cams, and they can be selected by a press-in lever left of the stitch length lever. I don't think the 282 has this feature, but other wise they seem identical to me (I have the 283F). To change position of the stitch selector on the 283 there is a chromed lever on top of the machine (sticking up at the back right above the lid there) you have to push to the the right and hold it there to release the part that runs on the cam stack; it will allow the stitch selector (numbered 1 to 4) to easily slide up and down when pushed in. When cleaned and oiled nothing needs force or brute action, so be a bit careful until you get the hang of it.

To pop up the top of the freearm; when you open the lid for the bobbin case there is a dark metal bit with a spring action sitting in a visible groove in the left part of the free arm (upper most part under there). This was rather stuck on mine and it took me a while to figure out how to make it release the lid. You just press it to towards the right with someting like a screw driver if it's a bit stuck. Mine eased up after a bit of oil in the right place (easily done when the top is off).

The oil points are easy enough to detect by observing moving parts when turning the hand wheel, moving levers, and knobs. The face plate has a screw inside the hole above the light switch, it has a keyhole shaped part for the screw; you need a screw driver for this. There's quite a few hinges, levers, grooves, gears, spiral shaped gears, and holes that needs oil, and it can take a bit of effort and repeated applications to make it run smooth.

miriam

I had the hardest time with the bobbin on the ones I've had. When I got used to passing thread through that little loop on the top of the bobbin case I fell in love. I have a Singer 115 with a similar bobbin case. I love it, too.

Mickey2

I don't know if you have had a chance to look at your machine yet, but I take a chance and add a few things that might be a bit helpful (bobbins are of a type used on industrial machines too). Mine has "Needle system 1738" embossed in the needle plate, which means round shank industrial type. They are easily found at a good price. I find it's a must to have a good selection of them for various types o fabric and thread weight. A correct match of thread and needle makes the stitch qualith much better, especially satin stitches. Mine behaves very well now, but I still have a few things to sort out. Under the bobbin wheel there's a plate covering two drive belts (freearm version only). The pulley with grooves for the two drive belts ran very sluggish on mine, it had to come off and are now cleaned and greased. Sooner or later I need new belts on mine, I plan to try the lugged neoprene type, I just need to brave up, measure the correct size and order new ones. I hope to find an accessory box, and maybe some cams.