Cleaning and repairing the shellac clear coat on vintage sewing mcahines
#32
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 2,609

You can use poly but all the shellac must be stripped off first or the poly will not stick good and will flake off. I recommend you stick with shellac since that is the original fisnish. The Water base poly will give a plastic look and will not have that amber glow of old furniture. You can use oil based poly but it will take days to dry and will collect dust will drying. Shellac will dry tack free in about 30 min or less.
#33

Ok....so here's my Singer 201-2...before and after:
These are the "before" pics...
[ATTACH=CONFIG]329356[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]329357[/ATTACH]
And after....still not perfect, but MUCH better, and at least the decals are protected!
[ATTACH=CONFIG]329359[/ATTACH]
Thanks Skip!!
These are the "before" pics...
[ATTACH=CONFIG]329356[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]329357[/ATTACH]
And after....still not perfect, but MUCH better, and at least the decals are protected!
[ATTACH=CONFIG]329359[/ATTACH]
Thanks Skip!!

#34
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 2,609

A rule of thumb is if the machine is black with decals it is japan with a clear coat of shellac to protect the decal. The newer machine that are green, brown, tan, white. pink or multicolor are baked enamel and will have no shellac on them. So if you have a machine with decals the clear coat is shellac. I will have to do some research to find the cut off dates of japan vs enamel. This is a very good question.
#35
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 2,609

Ok....so here's my Singer 201-2...before and after:
These are the "before" pics..
[ATTACH=CONFIG]329356[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]329357[/ATTACH]
And after....still not perfect, but MUCH better, and at least the decals are protected!
[ATTACH=CONFIG]329359[/ATTACH]
Thanks Skip!!
These are the "before" pics..
[ATTACH=CONFIG]329356[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]329357[/ATTACH]
And after....still not perfect, but MUCH better, and at least the decals are protected!
[ATTACH=CONFIG]329359[/ATTACH]
Thanks Skip!!

#36

A rule of thumb is if the machine is black with decals it is japan with a clear coat of shellac to protect the decal. The newer machine that are green, brown, tan, white. pink or multicolor are baked enamel and will have no shellac on them. So if you have a machine with decals the clear coat is shellac. I will have to do some research to find the cut off dates of japan vs enamel. This is a very good question.
Charlee, your machine looks wonderful!
#38
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Mechanicsville, IA
Posts: 1,497

We have a 1925 Singer with wood case intact. But the wiring in bad shape. Can a person get into the motor to put in new wire or do we need a specialist. Also we have a treadle with blond table. The table looks like either someone tried to sand it a little at one time or finish is worn. We wondered about a light sanding with super fine sand paper, but what would you recommend we use for finish?
#40
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 15,507

We have a 1925 Singer with wood case intact. But the wiring in bad shape. Can a person get into the motor to put in new wire or do we need a specialist. Also we have a treadle with blond table. The table looks like either someone tried to sand it a little at one time or finish is worn. We wondered about a light sanding with super fine sand paper, but what would you recommend we use for finish?
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