Cleaning and repairing the shellac clear coat on vintage sewing mcahines
#42

If it's a machine I'll use, as opposed to one sitting all purty in a collection, I use a high-grade furniture wax instead of shellac or poly. The wax gives it the beautiful finish you want, but it won't show the scratches from pins, etc like it will on shellac or poly. Here's a photo of a 15-91 I restored last month.
I only restored the top, I left the sides alone. I used denatured alcohol to dissolve the old shellac and once it was dissolved I spread it thinly and let dry. And then I used Briwax in the Mahogany tinted version, and voila! It's beautiful again.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]329671[/ATTACH]
I only restored the top, I left the sides alone. I used denatured alcohol to dissolve the old shellac and once it was dissolved I spread it thinly and let dry. And then I used Briwax in the Mahogany tinted version, and voila! It's beautiful again.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]329671[/ATTACH]
#45
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Huntsville, AL
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We have a 1925 Singer with wood case intact. But the wiring in bad shape. Can a person get into the motor to put in new wire or do we need a specialist. Also we have a treadle with blond table. The table looks like either someone tried to sand it a little at one time or finish is worn. We wondered about a light sanding with super fine sand paper, but what would you recommend we use for finish?
#46

If the glue might squeeze up through cracks in the veneer you'll want to put something between the veneer and the ruler/board so they don't stick together.
#47

I don't recommend re-wiring for the average person. Better to be safe than sorry! But I grew up working on a farm, know how to work on cars (if they were built in the 60s or 70s) and I've done wiring before many times, not just on sewing machines. I've rewired sewing machines, it's no trouble whatsoever if you're mechanically inclined and have some knowledge of wiring safely. But I never post on a public forum how to rewire a sewing machine, because if someone who's never done it before sees my instructions and tries it themselves.... they will most likely miss something and get hurt. And old, old machines may need soldering of some kind, and this is best left to someone who knows what they're doing. :~)
Last edited by Christine-; 04-22-2012 at 10:06 AM.
#48
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 15,507

Glenn, here is a candidate for a remake: Where will you start???
[ATTACH=CONFIG]329793[/ATTACH]
It is a tiny little thing. Here is the big sister behind - she is taller and longer:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]329794[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]329793[/ATTACH]
It is a tiny little thing. Here is the big sister behind - she is taller and longer:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]329794[/ATTACH]
#49
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 2,609

Use a toothpick to spread the glue as far under the veneer as you can. Then place a ruler or a thin board on top of the veneer. Use clamps to hold down the ruler or board and let dry over night. Clamped this way, the veneer should dry flat and no one will know it was ever a problem.
If the glue might squeeze up through cracks in the veneer you'll want to put something between the veneer and the ruler/board so they don't stick together.
If the glue might squeeze up through cracks in the veneer you'll want to put something between the veneer and the ruler/board so they don't stick together.
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