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Thread: Finding vintage machine resources

  1. #51
    Junior Member Freaky_Quilts_Dragon's Avatar
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    Davis_VS Yahoo group: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/davis_vf/ You have to be a member to see much or post, but almost everyone on it has one or more Vertical Feed machines and most of us use them The tutorial on how to clean a New Vertical Feed is invaluable - NVFs have about 100 parts (*NOT* an exaggeration) which is a LOT of parts for an antique machine. I would have been lost without it!
    I love and respect everything with all my heart and soul, because everything is sacred, and deserving of love and respect.

    https://www.etsy.com/shop/BraveNewCraft?ref=listing-shop-header-item-count"

  2. #52
    Power Poster miriam's Avatar
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    NEVER let a sewing machine know you are in a hurry.
    good mothers let you lick the beaters - great mothers turn it off first

  3. #53
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    Hello, just a new member now enrolled. Have what I believe is a very early on "white" by some details, have no manual, only a serial number that we believe by magnifying glass reads P(underscored) 21388 in a 5 drawer coffin top cabinet type and has a cast treadle assembly with a stamped April 13, 1879 PAT.Jan (10 or 16) 1803. On the crossarm the letters CBR in old calligraphy scroll. Has delicate red, gold, flowers and leaf designs on the head,also
    on the flat resting floor. Have searched many other sites on goggle, and have contacted the 800 toll free white number to no avail with the listed serial number as read under the front slide bar etched into the casing. Need help or suggestions as truthfully verify the vintage of this famil antique! Thanks, granniewhite

  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Freaky_Quilts_Dragon View Post
    Davis_VS Yahoo group: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/davis_vf/ You have to be a member to see much or post, but almost everyone on it has one or more Vertical Feed machines and most of us use them The tutorial on how to clean a New Vertical Feed is invaluable - NVFs have about 100 parts (*NOT* an exaggeration) which is a LOT of parts for an antique machine. I would have been lost without it!
    Is there an easy way to get around in Yahoo groups/ I try and I just end up quiting because I can't figure it out. I really do know what I am doing on a computer.

  5. #55
    Power Poster miriam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HelenAnn View Post
    Is there an easy way to get around in Yahoo groups/ I try and I just end up quiting because I can't figure it out. I really do know what I am doing on a computer.
    never could remember the pass word let alone navigate... gave up... gave up on needlebar, too.
    NEVER let a sewing machine know you are in a hurry.
    good mothers let you lick the beaters - great mothers turn it off first

  6. #56
    Super Member ArchaicArcane's Avatar
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    The yahoo groups were a lot easier to navigate before their new "neo" upgrade. That upgrade broke a lot of things and have frustrated a lot of people. There was even a rumor that yahoo had locked the ability for group owners to delete their groups because too many people were doing it, that's how frustrated people were. At one time it was the go to spot for any sort of sewing machine group but I know a lot of people find it just too much hassle now. As much as I dislike Facebook, I've been migrating that way for a while and I read and respond to people on the longarm group on FB but haven't even read anything on the yahoo one for months. Needlebar chased me here with their policies within about a week of joining.

  7. #57
    Super Member jlhmnj's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by granniewhite View Post
    Hello, just a new member now enrolled. Have what I believe is a very early on "white" by some details, have no manual, only a serial number that we believe by magnifying glass reads P(underscored) 21388 in a 5 drawer coffin top cabinet type and has a cast treadle assembly with a stamped April 13, 1879 PAT.Jan (10 or 16) 1803. On the crossarm the letters CBR in old calligraphy scroll. Has delicate red, gold, flowers and leaf designs on the head,also
    on the flat resting floor. Have searched many other sites on goggle, and have contacted the 800 toll free white number to no avail with the listed serial number as read under the front slide bar etched into the casing. Need help or suggestions as truthfully verify the vintage of this famil antique! Thanks, granniewhite
    Hi,

    Your description doesn't ring a bell with me, perhaps someone else. A picture would really be helpful.

    Good Luck
    Jon

  8. #58
    Super Member jlhmnj's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HelenAnn View Post
    Is there an easy way to get around in Yahoo groups/ I try and I just end up quiting because I can't figure it out. I really do know what I am doing on a computer.
    Not wild about the new set up, but I can navigate Yahoo groups pretty well. Once you get on the homepage there's a search bar for past conversations. I really don't like how they "hide" some important functions like Files, Links, and the Database.

    Jon

  9. #59
    Super Member jlhmnj's Avatar
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    The Needlebar has the ultimate in sewing machine picture library, hard not to come across if researching vintage or antique machines:

    http://www.needlebar.org/

    Invaluable info.
    Jon

  10. #60
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    knew that would be required, so will attend to that shortly. I will snap a shot of the "logo" plate near the right hand side by the wheel. Found flower decals very similar, can't match the lettering as stated in 1st inquiry. Saw some older machines that illustrated the center mechanism on the cross arm which this machine does have. The shuttle and spool look similar to your member picture as well. Will snap a shot as well. Thanks for taking the time to respond! GW

  11. #61
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    Hi Jon,
    Which Yahoo groups hide Files, Links and Databases? I am on over 20 groups and Converstions, Photos, About and Files are usually in view and then More with a down arrow. Under More is Databases, Attachments, Links etc. Some are enabled, others are not, depending upon the desires of the group's owners.
    Maria
    Smoky Mountains of Tennessee

  12. #62
    Super Member jlhmnj's Avatar
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    Hi Maria,

    To get to "Links" and "Database" you need first to click on "More" like you mentioned. I recall on the previous Yahoo format the categories seemed more prominent. I belong to a hand full of Yahoo groups and there seems to be much less activity in these areas than previously but it might be a sign of the times rather than the new format. . The ads in the middle of the conversations are also pretty annoying. Not meant to run down Yahoo Groups as it is a "gift horse"

    Jon
    Last edited by jlhmnj; 06-19-2015 at 02:16 PM.

  13. #63
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    Jon,
    I wholeheartedly agree that the new format is a pain. I can not navigate online. Plus I have been communicating with yahoo as I was unable to upload pics since the change. Have not checked lately. I also dislike ads, but I do no read on the website. Only go there to access files and to see pics. I have Windows live mail so all posts come to my computer and I get them on digest. I know I am behind, but I could not stand individual emails as it would drive me nut.

    By the way, I have problems posting here on Quiltingboard. I type and only partial words appear. Also I can not scroll up while I am typing a quick reply. Everything shakes too. Sometimes have problems pasting something I copied from outside this site. Links will not insert in the location I want them even though I have the cursor there. Any thoughts anyone?
    Maria
    Smoky Mountains of Tennessee

  14. #64
    Super Member Cari-in-Oly's Avatar
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    Maria are you using Internet Explorer? I had a lot of similar problems until I switched my Browser to Mozilla Firefox. I also added the Ad Blocker Plus so I rarely see any ads online now. On the yahoo groups the only ads I see are the ones that show up between messages, and I think that's because they look like messages until you open them. I agree that the new Yahoo isn't as friendly as the old, but I've gotten used to it. For me the whole set up works better in Firefox.

    Cari

  15. #65
    Junior Member LilaKay's Avatar
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    My husband is looking for an older Singer that is capable of sewing through several layers...like belting. He wants to make custom dog collars and leashes to sell at craft shows. We have a chance to buy a green 319 that is in good condition....sews but needs some tlc...do you think this machine would handle the heavy sewing?

  16. #66
    Power Poster miriam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LilaKay View Post
    My husband is looking for an older Singer that is capable of sewing through several layers...like belting. He wants to make custom dog collars and leashes to sell at craft shows. We have a chance to buy a green 319 that is in good condition....sews but needs some tlc...do you think this machine would handle the heavy sewing?
    You will need an old walking foot machine or an old harness machine if you are going to do production. If you are just doing a few an old Singer 15 with the larger hand wheel on a hand crank might do the job but I haven't seen one with a motor boss. I rigged one up once for sewing leather but I had to use a spinner knob. Very slow way to sew but it did work. I compared sewing leather on that to everything else in the shop. A Singer 27 has the big hand wheel and may do the job just fine, too. Then you have the issue of heavy thread. The 15 and the 27 are limited by what size thread you can make do with. The industrials will use a thicker thread and larger needle but there are limits how thick you can put through. There are older harness machines & patchers out there and this might be what you want for production. The 319 is not a good choice for that.
    NEVER let a sewing machine know you are in a hurry.
    good mothers let you lick the beaters - great mothers turn it off first

  17. #67
    Junior Member LilaKay's Avatar
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    Thank you, Miriam

  18. #68
    Power Poster miriam's Avatar
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    note the average Singer 15 has the smaller spoked hand wheel - I think somewhere on QB there is a discussion of hand wheels. You need one of the real old machines for that deep hand wheel. The 27s have a nice big hand wheel.
    NEVER let a sewing machine know you are in a hurry.
    good mothers let you lick the beaters - great mothers turn it off first

  19. #69
    Super Member ArchaicArcane's Avatar
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    I'd also say that really for that sort of work, a vintage machine is not really appropriate. A 15 or 27 with the big hand wheel -might- do it for a bit but they're not made for that and it's very hard on the machines long term. What Miriam was saying more gently than I will is that you're doing industrial work - use an industrial. If the leashes are mostly webbing, you might get away with the vintage machine for a while - but when it fails it will be when you most need it. If there's leather, etc just get a machine appropriate for the job.

    It's like using a Toyota Camry to haul all of the shingles you need for your roof. It'll do it once or twice but you'll prefer the job that the full sized truck does and the truck will last longer doing the work you want it to.

  20. #70
    Super Member manicmike's Avatar
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    The cam thread, for info on your zig-zaggers and machines that take pattern cams

    Singers: model 12 MOP (1885) Improved Family 29k58 (1939) 44K11 (1921) 201K2, 201K23 206k11 (1950) 222k (1959) 320k2(1959), 15K90, Bernina 530, Pfaff:360 (1959) http://tailororfailure.blogspot.com

  21. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by ArchaicArcane View Post
    I'd also say that really for that sort of work, a vintage machine is not really appropriate. A 15 or 27 with the big hand wheel -might- do it for a bit but they're not made for that and it's very hard on the machines long term. What Miriam was saying more gently than I will is that you're doing industrial work - use an industrial.
    Maybe the optimal compromise, a vintage industrial, they are still around and often only needs a good cleaning and oiling to run again. I know model 15 can stand up to all kinds of abuse, but it's made for sewing clothes and curtains, everything for the home. You have to be a bit nice to it

  22. #72
    Super Member ArchaicArcane's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mickey2 View Post
    Maybe the optimal compromise, a vintage industrial, they are still around and often only needs a good cleaning and oiling to run again. I know model 15 can stand up to all kinds of abuse, but it's made for sewing clothes and curtains, everything for the home. You have to be a bit nice to it
    You're right, I should have had the word "domestic" in there. I wouldn't have a lot of trouble with someone using an appropriate vintage industrial for a cottage business. In fact, they're some of the best machines to use - well built, parts are often plentiful and they're usually well worn in and inexpensive as a result.

    That said, it seems like industrials open up another can of worms. There's a conception that they all do the same work and they don't. They aren't all for leather, heavy work, etc. An industrial's job is to do one thing well and fast. The 31-15 I have for instance is not particularly suitable for leather. It's a tailor machine. It's meant for general tailor work - fast. Which vintage industrial is good for leather? Depends on the leather and the job. There are as many vintage industrials as domestics, I bet.

  23. #73
    Power Poster miriam's Avatar
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    Recently, I bought a Singer 16-43 from a book rebindery. They had it set up to sew on leather bound books. I want it for sewing on canvas. I have a Singer 15-75 with a souped up motor on it that might do the job but the industrial has a much more powerful motor. The walking foot is made for moving fabric evenly and it should sew through a few more layers. I could put a walking foot attachment on the Singer 15 but after looking at and using the 16 you would think those little domestic walking feet are a toy. If I were just putting two pieces of canvas together my little Singer 15 would sew just fine even with a toy walking foot. The stitches aren't very long though. When you sew on canvas or leather the material is actually STRONGER when it is sewn with bigger stitches. With canvas it is flat felled for strength. Then when it is time to hem, the 16-43 will go through like nothing hit it. When you hem canvas you are still sort of ok on a folded edge (it will sew it) but when you get into corners or multiple seams you really NEED the heavier machine. My industrial machine's pressure foot is made to lift higher for thicker material. The Singer 16 has a bigger needle hole. It will take a bigger needle and thicker thread. With my little Singer 15 the needle plate hole is small in comparison. The needle going through the hole with thick thread causes the thick thread to shred if it rubs against the small needle plate. The needle is more likely to strike the needle hole with a larger needle and thread. If the needle strikes the plate it will make burrs on the plate and cause thread to shred and all kinds of weirdness can happen. I also once had a real nice Pfaff industrial. I used it to sew on canvas. It was no more meant for sewing on canvas or heavy materials than my little Singer 15. I ruined a few needle plates with it... I replaced it with a Singer 111 - an old industrial machine from the 40s. When we moved I sold all the industrials and closed up my tent shop. I did regret selling the Singer 111. I also now have a 241-13 which is an industrial machine. It is made for draperies or something sewn at high speed. As far as it goes I like the little Singer 15 better for that but I love the industrial table. I think the industrial machines can spoil you for the home domestic machines. Some times I'll be using a machine and thinking I can't believe how slow this machine goes. I'm thinking it might be a good idea to educate yourself if you plan to do a lot of production sewing or a lot of sewing on heavy goods. You may find that your domestic sewing machine will do fine if it has a fast enough motor or you may find that the industrial machine of some sort is what you need. In a factory or business setting an industrial machine is set up to do one task. No settings are changed from one minute to the next. My 241 drives me crazy because the stitch length is so hard to adjust - it was set up to do small stitches very fast. I would imagine it would do some pretty nice free motion work very quickly. Cost wise the industrial machines were fairly inexpensive but unless you know what you are doing working on one it might be a good idea to find one in working order and then learn all you can at point of sale. Some things are not intuitive.
    Last edited by miriam; 09-29-2015 at 02:08 AM.
    NEVER let a sewing machine know you are in a hurry.
    good mothers let you lick the beaters - great mothers turn it off first

  24. #74
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    If you think that vintage sewing machines are getting scarce and more expensive, just wait. Patternreview.com has just featured an advertisement for a DVD on antique and vintage sewing machines. Called "Still Stitching", the film makers seem to have covered the NE part of the US, so if you're lusting after a particular machine, better get it now. The advertisement says they covered from 1870 to 1970.

  25. #75
    Super Member SteveH's Avatar
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    too cool. I just "commented" there

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