Kenmore Electric Rotary Sewing Machine or 120-49 is here.
06-01-2014, 05:46 AM
#31
Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 25
Joe, I have acquired this machine myself from a 90 year old friend who is downsizing into a senior residence. She said that it worked (40+ years ago)but like your machine is seized up fiercely. The motor works but will only turn the hand wheel when it is loosened. I can move the reverse lever and a bit of tri flo has got that to move a little easier. So, I want to know hot to get the case off so I can start to oil the rest of the machine. Can you help me out here. Thanks,
Kathy
Kathy
06-01-2014, 06:35 AM
#32
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 8,091
Kathy,
On the back of the machine is three or four screws. Remove them and the back comes off. Then there are three or four screws coming in from the back side that hold the front on. A couple are kind of hidden, you'll have to look for them.
Once those screws are removed the clam shell will come off and you can see how it's built.
Joe
On the back of the machine is three or four screws. Remove them and the back comes off. Then there are three or four screws coming in from the back side that hold the front on. A couple are kind of hidden, you'll have to look for them.
Once those screws are removed the clam shell will come off and you can see how it's built.
Joe
06-01-2014, 02:16 PM
#34
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 8,091
Kathy,
Do not oil or grease any of the nylon ( plastic ) bits. They can react with the oil and expand. When that happens the bobbin parts will bind up.
Also for the top shaft bushings stand the machine on it's end and oil them so the oil will soak down between the shaft and bushings. Those were oil impregnated bushings and the original oil is long dried out. This is where the Tri-Flow oil really shines.
There are also bushings on the presser foot shaft and needle bar.
Joe
Do not oil or grease any of the nylon ( plastic ) bits. They can react with the oil and expand. When that happens the bobbin parts will bind up.
Also for the top shaft bushings stand the machine on it's end and oil them so the oil will soak down between the shaft and bushings. Those were oil impregnated bushings and the original oil is long dried out. This is where the Tri-Flow oil really shines.
There are also bushings on the presser foot shaft and needle bar.
Joe
06-01-2014, 04:00 PM
#36
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 8,091
BerninaGirl,
There are exceptions to that and the Kenmore 120- machines are one of them. I consider them vintage junque. The one I have sits in it's case and is never used. I dislike it that much. I take it out once in a while to clean the case of mold and see if it still turns over.
There are many better machines out there. If you like Kenmores then try the 117 and 158 series. Some of the best in my opinion anyway.
Joe
There are exceptions to that and the Kenmore 120- machines are one of them. I consider them vintage junque. The one I have sits in it's case and is never used. I dislike it that much. I take it out once in a while to clean the case of mold and see if it still turns over.
There are many better machines out there. If you like Kenmores then try the 117 and 158 series. Some of the best in my opinion anyway.
Joe
06-02-2014, 05:27 AM
#38
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 8,091
SD,
The only Kenmore 148 series I've seen was a 15 Clone. The 148 series was made by Soryu in Japan. I do believe I'd give them a good look see and then make up my mind on an individual basis.
When I suggest models like the 117 and 158 series it's because I have hands on experience with them.
Joe
The only Kenmore 148 series I've seen was a 15 Clone. The 148 series was made by Soryu in Japan. I do believe I'd give them a good look see and then make up my mind on an individual basis.
When I suggest models like the 117 and 158 series it's because I have hands on experience with them.
Joe
11-28-2021, 06:52 PM
#39
Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 6
It is an ugly beast, isn't it? I have one too and consider it male; I call him "Bear" because he has a wonderfully powerful growl. Bear worked when I got him but was filthy. So I did pretty much everything you did except that I pulled the motor apart and cleaned it too. I found the whole machine fascinating as it's so very different than all their others. They went off in a totally different design direction with the aluminum "skeleton"; or perhaps it was Chrysler that did it. And the 1.5 amp Delco motor! You'll never find a motor that powerful in a modern machine. I carefully cleaned it's chain too. Lastly, I oiled him and tried sewing. Holy cow, what a machine! I'm going to make some medium-weight canvas slipcovers and plan to use Bear. I tested him with a size 16 needle and 8 layers of heavyweight denim; he chomped through it as easily as though it were butter.
Wish I had all those lovely accessories - "Bear" arrived "bare". Guess I'll have to begin trolling Craig's List and ebay.
Wish I had all those lovely accessories - "Bear" arrived "bare". Guess I'll have to begin trolling Craig's List and ebay.
11-30-2021, 02:47 PM
#40
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: South of St Louis
Posts: 822
I have this same machine and posted about it on another thread. After having the "exoskeleton" off the machine all I could think of was the movie "The Terminator", which is what the machine will be to me.
What needle did you use? I think the correct needle is a CC1221, I tested mine with a 15x1, which worked, but I it shouldn't have.
What needle did you use? I think the correct needle is a CC1221, I tested mine with a 15x1, which worked, but I it shouldn't have.
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