Looking for help for a Deployed Soldier
#21
I remember this post about putting a notch in a solid handwheel...
http://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage...ml#post5184000
http://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage...ml#post5184000
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New England
Posts: 865
I also thought 99, but it is heavy. Aluminum 201? Singer 301 - although I've never seen one with a hand crank. Elna Grasshopper would be ideal, self contained with the case also being the table, sturdy, has a low gear, but heavy. Not sure if it could be fitted with a handcrank. The candidate machine probably needs to have droppable feed dogs for darning. I don't know if a Singer 127/128/27/28 has feed dogs that drop, but this can a be hand crank. Geeze! A Pfaff 130 would fix anything, can be handcranked, but heavy and wouldn't approve of sand. I have seen Singer 221 Featherweights with hand cranks, but as you said, not cheap unless somebody donates.
#23
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Join Date: Mar 2011
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Those little 128s are not all that heavy outside the case. Wilbur and I cleaned one up this evening. He was so cute. He turned the wheel while I oiled. He liked the shuttle, the presser foot and the needle bar. He really looked that one over. The one I have has a massive rust spot right in the middle of the bed. We cleaned it but a lot of paint flaked off. Any ideas how to fix that. The machine is mostly just fine otherwise. Wilbur also made bread in the mudpie kitchen. [ATTACH=CONFIG]411261[/ATTACH]
#24
Steve,
I converted my 99 from electric to HC with an original Singer HC. It works like a dream - but - I would think a HC ZZ machine be better for uniform repairs(?). I'm not sure what vintage Singer ZZ machine to recommend for conversion to HC though.....
I converted my 99 from electric to HC with an original Singer HC. It works like a dream - but - I would think a HC ZZ machine be better for uniform repairs(?). I'm not sure what vintage Singer ZZ machine to recommend for conversion to HC though.....
#25
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Northern CA near Sacramento
Posts: 1,107
Miriam,
Over on Treadle-on Captain Dick has a tute on how to cut the bracket on the 99 BW so that the BW tire will lower down and ride on the handwheel. A few weeks ago I did a conversion in which I cut a notch on the bottom-outside of the bracket (instead of cutting all the way through the bracket) and put the screw back in with the notch under the screwhead. When tightened down the screw holds the BW down far enough that it will engage the back of the hand wheel.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]411265[/ATTACH]
The red arrow in the picture points to both the screw and spot where I cut the notch.
Cathy
Over on Treadle-on Captain Dick has a tute on how to cut the bracket on the 99 BW so that the BW tire will lower down and ride on the handwheel. A few weeks ago I did a conversion in which I cut a notch on the bottom-outside of the bracket (instead of cutting all the way through the bracket) and put the screw back in with the notch under the screwhead. When tightened down the screw holds the BW down far enough that it will engage the back of the hand wheel.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]411265[/ATTACH]
The red arrow in the picture points to both the screw and spot where I cut the notch.
Cathy
#27
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Join Date: Mar 2011
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Thank you looked into the notch.
Cathy I set it free of the bracket and it works as long as I hold the BW down but it doesn't spring back.
You do have to hold down the Spartan BW anyway.
Cathy I set it free of the bracket and it works as long as I hold the BW down but it doesn't spring back.
You do have to hold down the Spartan BW anyway.
Last edited by miriam; 05-02-2013 at 02:40 AM.
#28
Super Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Northern CA near Sacramento
Posts: 1,107
Miriam,
Yes, 'setting it free' does require you to hold it down. But by cutting the notch it will stay under the screw (stay clamped down) and allow the auto stop to work (spring back action).
I figure that on some machines (due to casting & machining differences) the bracket might not reach far enough and holding down might always be needed. Since it does require a bit of fine tuning as to where to clamp it.
Cathy
Yes, 'setting it free' does require you to hold it down. But by cutting the notch it will stay under the screw (stay clamped down) and allow the auto stop to work (spring back action).
I figure that on some machines (due to casting & machining differences) the bracket might not reach far enough and holding down might always be needed. Since it does require a bit of fine tuning as to where to clamp it.
Cathy
#30
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