Candace

I'm taking the plunge and am repainting a 99 that I purchased in bad cosmetic condition. The motor is disgusting and I suspect dead. The wiring is bad too. So, I think I'll repaint and hand crank it as I don't own a hand crank machine. There's no rust, but the machine's decals are damaged and the paint looks bad.

I've cleaned it up and sanded it. Should I actually strip the paint before priming or with the sanding be enough? I have a metal primer, but I wonder if the shellac on it the machine will inhibit a nice bond with the primer and paint?

What brand clear coat have you used?

Tips for this would be great.

Also, I've not decided on the color but I'm looking for some cool, water slide decals. I've hunted for a while and haven't found any I love. I want something kind of whacky and fun. I'm NOT wanting anything traditional like flowers etc. unless they're bold and retro like flower power or something like that. Maybe crazy bugs all over it or smiley faces? Post some fun water slide decals and help me pick!

DanofNJ

On a total repaint I have sanded the machine down to metal, or to the enamel paint that is original to it. Then prime it with auto primer, and spray with black enamel engine paint. Then apply decals. I have tried to spray shellac without success, so I now spray lacquer and it looks beautiful. I use an air compressor for the job of lacquer. I have on occasion then applied shellac as a top coat however this is VERY difficult to do with perfection, so I do not recommend it. Be sure that the paint cures at least a week before top coat. Some people have used automotive top coat but I do not...Good luck

Candace

I don't have a sprayer or professional equipment, so it will have to be products I can purchase at local stores.

MrsBoats

If you take the japanning off, you'll find that the casting underneath isn't as smooth as the japanned surface was. I'd sand all the decals off, prime it, fair out any divots with some sort of filling compound (you may be able to skip this step, prime it again, then paint. Lacquer bombs work well for this, and lacquer is fairly forgiving to work with.

Candace

I'm thinking this method may work for me. What kind of filling compound would you recommend? I do have a couple of divots. I've never heard of a lacquer bomb? Can you describe that in more detail? Thanks!

Caroline S

I have often wondered what causes the pock marks and chipped edges on old sewing machines. I also have a 99 that needs a paint redo. I also have to do some research to see if one could make their own waterslide decals. The ones I have seen online never to seem to be exactly what I want.

Candace

The chipped edges are easy to obtain, from lowering the machine in and out of the table. Especially if the screws holding the machine in the back are loose.

I agree that I'm not finding any water slides that interest me:< Something like this would be fun. I just wish I could find it in a water slide and not a sticker! http://images.search.yahoo.com/image...G2rWM&fr=aaplw

Candace

Also, if I were to buy an inexpensive spray gun, what would be a good one? I just would want one that does the job, and nothing fancy.

Caroline S

I like those happy decals also Candace. I think today's mission will be to see if one could make their own water slide decal.

Vridar

This one I like for simplicity. It does require a compressed air supply which adds to the cost if not already available. An automotive compressor works. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00006FRPJ/ref=redir_mdp_mobile