Go Back  Quiltingboard Forums > Main > For Vintage & Antique Machine Enthusiasts
Machine Vibrating the Whole Floor -- What to Do? >

Machine Vibrating the Whole Floor -- What to Do?

Machine Vibrating the Whole Floor -- What to Do?

Thread Tools
 
Old 10-24-2018, 08:14 AM
  #21  
Super Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: The Deep South near Cajun Country, USA
Posts: 5,383
Default

I need a "like" button NZquilter. I love your answer about the sewing shed on a concrete pad.
Barb in Louisiana is offline  
Old 10-24-2018, 08:59 AM
  #22  
Power Poster
 
Annaquilts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: SoCal
Posts: 11,902
Default

Originally Posted by twinsister2 View Post
I found that you need a very sturdy table that helps eliminate most of this problem! I went to a second hand store and purchased a old computer desk,,,,the kind that has a little shelf that pulls out for the key board... and it works wonderfully! Next my hubby drilled a hole about 3 inches across, on the side ( about 3 inches down,) so my sewing cord could be plugged in on the underside of the desk instead of going behind the thin backing, he even cut out a rectangle in the backing that matched my outlet, so my new table sits flush against the wall! Hope this helps
Yes, this! I use a big old conference table and we can all sit and sew without any problem but when we go to friends homes we have the problem too because of the tables.
Annaquilts is offline  
Old 10-24-2018, 09:00 AM
  #23  
Super Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,963
Default

A 130 should be smooth, no need for major floor support or cushioning to make it run nice. You should get far with basic maintanance and sorting out possible mechanical issues. You are onto the problem already, pulley, belt and hand wheel need to be right. I have bought basic v-belts from SewClassic and ebay, they were the narrow type. If there are cracks or chips in the hand wheel, there are fixes for it. They tend to be in good condition, but the 130 usually has a bakelite hand wheel and things can happen. For the resistance in the hand wheel, I suspect it needs more cleaning and oiling, go through all the points thoroughly, and observe parts as you turn the hand wheel. Generally; trouble shooting is more of the same already mentioned.
Mickey2 is offline  
Old 10-24-2018, 09:07 AM
  #24  
Super Member
Thread Starter
 
NZquilter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Kansas
Posts: 4,436
Default

Originally Posted by Annaquilts View Post
Yes, this! I use a big old conference table and we can all sit and sew without any problem but when we go to friends homes we have the problem too because of the tables.
It is not my cabinet. Already ran all the tests for the cabinet. It is the machine.
NZquilter is offline  
Old 10-24-2018, 09:09 AM
  #25  
Super Member
Thread Starter
 
NZquilter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Kansas
Posts: 4,436
Default

Originally Posted by Mickey2 View Post
A 130 should be smooth, no need for major floor support or cushioning to make it run nice. You should get far with basic maintanance and sorting out possible mechanical issues. You are onto the problem already, pulley, belt and hand wheel need to be right. I have bought basic v-belts from SewClassic and ebay, they were the narrow type. If there are cracks or chips in the hand wheel, there are fixes for it. They tend to be in good condition, but the 130 usually has a bakelite hand wheel and things can happen. For the resistance in the hand wheel, I suspect it needs more cleaning and oiling, go through all the points thoroughly, and observe parts as you turn the hand wheel. Generally; trouble shooting is more of the same already mentioned.
Thanks! I agree, I think it is the belt. I'll check the balance wheel too. Also I noticed that my manual shows more oiling points than my machine has holes for, so I think that's why I am having a hard time reaching some spots.
NZquilter is offline  
Old 10-24-2018, 10:03 AM
  #26  
Super Member
 
leonf's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: near Topeka kansas
Posts: 4,524
Default

Every machine has more oiling points than holes. Oil every place that has two surfaces moving.

I know you'll get it sorted.
leonf is offline  
Old 10-24-2018, 12:23 PM
  #27  
Super Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,963
Default

Originally Posted by NZquilter View Post
...Also I noticed that my manual shows more oiling points than my machine has holes for, so I think that's why I am having a hard time reaching some spots.
Spot on, some models it can be handy with an long spout oil can. Like leon mentions, all joints, gears, hinges, end of rods, cam like parts, where metal moves against metal needs oil The trick is to oil a drop or two, then run the machine, yet another drop every where, and do this persistantly for a while. It's typical for machines that's recently taken out of storage or neglected.
Mickey2 is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Colorful1
For Vintage & Antique Machine Enthusiasts
31
03-22-2016 06:21 AM
Slow2Sew
General Chit-Chat (non-quilting talk)
16
09-02-2015 04:30 AM
junk
For Vintage & Antique Machine Enthusiasts
3
08-05-2012 12:16 PM
junk
For Vintage & Antique Machine Enthusiasts
0
08-04-2012 05:05 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



FREE Quilting Newsletter