Ok...I learned something "new to me" over on Needlebar tonight!

My 115 has a serial number that Singer lists as a model 27. Chrys had told me earlier that this serial number is the earliest serial for a 115 on the records. (The ones that Chrys has been gathering for 30 years). So then I had to ask if the entire run of serial numbers would have been 115 machines or if my machine having that serial was a quirk?

Chrys responded: "I have several 27 sphinx machines in my database in that batch of serial numbers. There was probably a small batch within that range of numbers that were 115s. I've come across this before. e.g. There are batches of Featherweights within larger batches of other models that never got recorded."

Chrys impresses me no end...as does the willingness of the other members of Needlebar to help!

Candace,

I was referring to the Japanese class 15 machines that Joe is in working on. The Singer 301 is a completely different animal. The timing and hook clearance on the 301 is adjusted by loosening two set screws and moving the hook. The 301 does get out of adjustment.

Cathy

I've also received a White(straight stitch), 4 Singer 301's, a Morse, Pfaff and Singer 319 that had the timing out of whack. I must be a magnet because I've seen a lot of timing problems with machines I've repaired.

Thank you Charlee!

The 15s are pretty easy to time - I've done two - both at the same time - Both came with the needle bar twisted position and slightly off timing. Glenn helped me figure it out but the info was in the repair manual all along.

Anamaria, Are you going to the Turlock TOGA this weekend?

http://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage...3881-1191.html I'm looking at window 11904 - There is a pin cushion on top of that machine. Pretty cool looking. I'm wondering how that was made. Does it keep the pins from scratching?

I thought the machine looked okay; why repaint it, then I saw photo of the backside. It is an interesting blog!!

Joe,

The needlebar movement is usually measured at the bushing just where the bar enters and exits the head. The best way is with a gauge until experience allows you to eyeball it.
Many Singers (ie 401, 500 and others of that era) and sometimes other brands have two timing marks (score lines) on the needlebar. On these you lower the needlebar to it’s lowest point (DBC) the upper timing mark will just be at the bottom of the bushing. Then raise the needlebar until the lower timing mark is in the position that the upper mark was at before moving. This movement was .093”.

You said that the machine is stitching with its new needle. Leave it, after all this is your goal. The .093” measurement is an old industry standard. The factory and techs in the field learn that you sometimes have to fudge this due to casting and machining variances.
Use the .093” as a starting point.

The Japanese 15 machines with the bobbincasse/ hook facing the left usually have the timing pin set. If this has been changed it is very evident. The pin will have been punched or drilled out and the hole threaded for the set screw and usually another hole will be drilled and tapped for the second set screw.. So unless there is a set screw or two at the timing point, I doubt that the timing has changed. It probably has always been just barely off of the standard .093”.
Hope I helped.
Cathy

That's Nancy's machine... The pincushion would be less likely to leave pin rash than the normal "pin sleeve", but it's still going to wear on the decals I would think...like fabric does over the bed of the machine...just not as fast because it's not going to move as much.