Actually I think yous is in great shape. Needs some TLC, that it.

I have been told that DBx1 will also work for these, But I have a few 13x1's still so I have not tested

I will mention that the shaft diameter on the DBx1 needle varies from brand to brand. You may have to try a few to get the right ones. I can use the DBx1 needles I seem to find here in my 12 and 13 "clones" but only if I dremel the shafts down to fit. It's tedious and if you shave too much on the wrong side, it can cause clearance issues. If you can find some locally that fit (take the head with you) - get the brand and then order in bulk online. What I do know is that the Gros Beckert DBx1 needles that I have here have a large shaft, so they're not especially suitable.

This thread here: http://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage...ml#post5986789 has a lot of information in it (in various posts from Mizkaki) about DBx1 needles and it's all worth reading.

If all else fails I'd try a Boye #2 or 1x7 sewing machine needle if more available than 13x1. Organ makes a small shank DBX1 at 1.60mm, others can be larger as mentioned. I've had mixed success with using DBX1 on my Model 12's due to larger shank. I'd be curious to hear if a 12x1 or DBx1 has enough length to work in the Model 13. Also, Steve's 46x1 Glovers needles which are still available might fit the bill.

Good Luck

Jon

The 46x1 needles have a full groove on both sides. (Two thread double chainstitch) I can't imagine that would work very well with a normal lockstitch machine

Hi Steve,

Would you know if the 46x1 needle needs to be oriented on a particular long groove and how would the thread be caught by the chainstitch looper if it doesn't throw a loop? Sounds like an interesting needle.

Jon

Why not though? The groove's just there to make space for the thread, what would it do to the stitch physics if there was just empty air there? Not much. A little less resistance on the fabric on that side is all...

I already have some dpx17, I will try to find some organ dbx1 even if here Schmetz ones are more easily available.
But now I have some rust removal, cleaning and polishing things to do ...

Many thanks to all

The way a regular machine makes a loop for the hook or shuttle to pass through is that the side with NO groove allows the thread to be "pinched" between the needle body and the fabric so that when the needle is lifted the thread is held long enough for the loop to form. If you put the needle in backwards, the thread will be safe in the groove and will slide up with the needle so no loop = no stitch.

This is why it is so important for the thread to be going in from the correct direction and the needle to be oriented properly.

Not sure yet. awaiting the needles still. On the one that was in it the groove is 100% on 1 side and about 60-75% of the side on the other. I only have a parts manual, no operators manual. I am hoping that the instructions for a modern machine will be available and useful. Otherwise, lots of careful experimentation.

On the G&B the needle had a full groove on both sides but both sides also have a scarf, which allowed the fine tolerance machine to interweave the thread.

Mikado,

I looked up the specs of the DPx17, a common needle for Walking Foot machines, and the shank is 2mm which would have to be ground down to fit though the length is about right. Please send in some pics when she's all cleaned up and Good Luck.

Steve,

I found a manual for a modern Glover's machine, Kansai SPX-101, not sure how helpful it is: Looks like a great though difficult project.

http://www.supsew.com/KnowledgeBaseA...ai%20SPX_E.pdf

Jon