Putting my Silver 15-91 to work
12-11-2014, 10:32 AM
#12
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Location: San Lorenzo, CA
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the general rule for virtually ALL sewing machines is "Spool, Tension, Takeup, Needle" Some have guides between each, some do not. If you are not sure or cannot find instructions, doing those 4 will make most machines sew.
12-11-2014, 12:46 PM
#13
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The spool holder is sitting on top of a regular spool holder with the loop at the top, so the thread goes directly up to that loop, then it goes to the machine. That top loop is not shown in the picture.
The key to getting it to work on the 15 is putting a piece of tape across the top thread guide on the back face plate, turning it into a hole instead of the open notch. If you do not do this, the thread will pop out and you'll have Problems!
However it threads exactly the same, that is just to keep the thread in place. I'll take some pictures when I get home after work (am in the office today).
The key to getting it to work on the 15 is putting a piece of tape across the top thread guide on the back face plate, turning it into a hole instead of the open notch. If you do not do this, the thread will pop out and you'll have Problems!
However it threads exactly the same, that is just to keep the thread in place. I'll take some pictures when I get home after work (am in the office today).
12-11-2014, 05:02 PM
#16
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Here is a better picture of how the thread is pulling off the spool. The holder is just sitting on a regular thread spool holder that I pulled the pin out so I could put this directly under the loop. It pulls the best that way.
And the tape keeping the thread where it belongs. Without the tape the thread will sometimes pop out and then climb out of the tension- and break . . .
And the wall hanging so far
Even with the long arm, I still enjoy FMQ on the smaller and more detailed projects.
And the tape keeping the thread where it belongs. Without the tape the thread will sometimes pop out and then climb out of the tension- and break . . .
And the wall hanging so far
Even with the long arm, I still enjoy FMQ on the smaller and more detailed projects.
12-12-2014, 04:57 AM
#17
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Harrisonburg, VA
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Originally Posted by Macybaby
Sew Classic - About $15 and it works fine. Just a short shank hopping foot and should work on any short shank machine. And for FMQ, it won't really matter if it's a left homing machine, as long as the feed dogs drop, and that seems to be common.
I need to order a few more as I gave some away with a few machines. Most people want the 15 for FMQ, and they can start right up if it comes with the foot.
I need to order a few more as I gave some away with a few machines. Most people want the 15 for FMQ, and they can start right up if it comes with the foot.
12-12-2014, 05:55 AM
#18
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Location: Centralia, WA, USA
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Great job on the Wall Hanging! Close-ups when it's done?
I've had problems with the thread jumping out of the slot too when I use my thread stand. It always happens when tension problems matter the most. I never thought of tape. Sometimes it's the simple things.
Rodney
I've had problems with the thread jumping out of the slot too when I use my thread stand. It always happens when tension problems matter the most. I never thought of tape. Sometimes it's the simple things.
Rodney
12-12-2014, 06:20 AM
#19
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Rodney, my first long arm had a serious problem with thread "unthreading" from those "self threading" eyes. It came with some with shrinkwrap on to close them, and I had DH bend one more to make it closed.
When someone had repeated problems with thread breaking - it was recommended they would video the machine in use, and often it wasn't a real tension problem, but that the thread would fly around and hook on something or come out of a guide and get messed up. Some thread has more "spool memory" than others - like metallic or some monofiliment - and it wants to curl up and get in all kinds of places you don't want it.
I have a real problem using Coats & Clark made in Mexico thread on my White 670. For some reason, that stuff wants to loop down and there is just enough of it when the thread uptake lever comes down, that it can get under the long bar coming off the tension (that is there to keep this from happening) and then it will snap right at that point. If I slow down (satin stitching on yards and yards of ribbon) it does not happen, but at higher speed it will do it regularly. I bought a couple of spools at Walmart, and both colors gave me problems, but so far no other thread has done that. I still have to use quite a bit of it, so I was thinking of putting some tape on that bar to make it effectively longer.
When someone had repeated problems with thread breaking - it was recommended they would video the machine in use, and often it wasn't a real tension problem, but that the thread would fly around and hook on something or come out of a guide and get messed up. Some thread has more "spool memory" than others - like metallic or some monofiliment - and it wants to curl up and get in all kinds of places you don't want it.
I have a real problem using Coats & Clark made in Mexico thread on my White 670. For some reason, that stuff wants to loop down and there is just enough of it when the thread uptake lever comes down, that it can get under the long bar coming off the tension (that is there to keep this from happening) and then it will snap right at that point. If I slow down (satin stitching on yards and yards of ribbon) it does not happen, but at higher speed it will do it regularly. I bought a couple of spools at Walmart, and both colors gave me problems, but so far no other thread has done that. I still have to use quite a bit of it, so I was thinking of putting some tape on that bar to make it effectively longer.
12-12-2014, 09:28 AM
#20
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I'd like to offer a suggestion about the thread jumping out of the slot.
Notice that the "slot" is actually a hole with a wedge leading into it? Notice as well that the wedge cutout does NOT go to the edges of the hole? I am pretty sure that this is not by accident. It would have actually been easier for them to make it a smooth round bottomed wedge shape if they wanted to.
Seeing this I did a few tests last night and it appears that as long as the spool is NOT IN LINE with the "slot" but set to the side, those little wings catch the thread and keep it from hopping out. when I set the spool in line it hops out from time to time (mostly during deceleration)
your mileage may vary...
Notice that the "slot" is actually a hole with a wedge leading into it? Notice as well that the wedge cutout does NOT go to the edges of the hole? I am pretty sure that this is not by accident. It would have actually been easier for them to make it a smooth round bottomed wedge shape if they wanted to.
Seeing this I did a few tests last night and it appears that as long as the spool is NOT IN LINE with the "slot" but set to the side, those little wings catch the thread and keep it from hopping out. when I set the spool in line it hops out from time to time (mostly during deceleration)
your mileage may vary...
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