Stuck-Up Rust Bucket

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Old 09-10-2014, 02:34 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by oldsewnsew
I had a rusted/stuck 15 that once the set screw were loose, i used a hammer and a piece of scrap brass to coax the needle and presser bars down a bit, then used a bolt and nut that just squeezed in with some aluminum bits and "unthreaded" the bolt a bit, then I applied heat with a heatshrink gun (hair dryer on steroids). You can easily bend rods if not careful, but it was a throw away anyway.Eventually I got it loose
I can take the needle bar and pressure foot bar in and out with ease, they aren't bent or burred. I'm going to start taking things loose tonight. I've been told the big bolt/nut in the center of the pillar is a bear to get put back in, any suggestions to make it easier?
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Old 09-10-2014, 02:37 PM
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not so much of a bear to get back in as it is critical that it be exactly the same tension that is has now. That bolt has a pointed other end that fits in a cone on an internal mechanism and it acts as the pivot point.
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Old 09-10-2014, 02:52 PM
  #53  
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Is there a way to insure it has the same tension? Kinda like counting the number of revolutions when removing a tie rod? I can mark the nut to help make sure its in the same place as before removal.
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Old 09-10-2014, 03:06 PM
  #54  
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when I did two of these, it was about "feeling the tension" afterwards. I basically tighten it until it begins to bind and then back it out a tiny bit.
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Old 09-10-2014, 03:23 PM
  #55  
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Is there a way to know if its too tight or too loose when I put it back together? Also what about the screw on the outside of the stitch length knob/bolt/screw, the one under the hand wheel.
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Old 09-10-2014, 03:47 PM
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Hard to do from memory/imagination but I believe that is the other pivot point.

I would recommend ONLY removing one if possible. removing two means having to not only get the tension correct but to also make sure it is recentered.

I would make those near the last on my list of parts to remove.

Steve
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Old 09-10-2014, 04:01 PM
  #57  
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OK then. Surgery is about to commence. The patient has been prepped and is resting comfortably on a bed of cardboard. New batteries placed in the camera and flashlights. The lights have been turned off so only the light from the flashlight will be used unless necessary. The fan has been turned toward the surgeon to keep her cool under pressure. Supplies are waiting at ready (screw drivers, ziplocs, sharpie, q-tips, paper towels, sewing machine oil syringe, and brass brushes). Hrer goes nothing and wish me luck.
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Old 09-10-2014, 04:30 PM
  #58  
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OK, as we get started here is a couple pictures and a question:
Attached Thumbnails dscf0523.jpg  
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Old 09-10-2014, 04:36 PM
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Don't worry about the adjustment on this until it's back together, there all make once complete.. most every pivot point has a adjustment

once the rod going forward is off they a big screw and nut, remove that to get the rocker out, then the stitch length.

all the adjustment are by feel and sound, by sound I mean once you treadle it you may hear a clicking, go back readjust that point... it only takes a few more hours out of that 23.

I've found that once the lower shaft/rod is unhooked and it still turns stiff, cut the chase , take everything it the column out.. the upper main shaft seldom needs to be removed, but it's not that hard to do.

if you do a google search you'll find parts diagrams on that machine.

only thing is be careful with the rocker shaft, they will break they were not a great casting, also the upper pivot for the rocker, leave it alone, do not even try to remove that.. thats the big hole next to the spool pin

once you do this, you'll save a pile of money on not buying any more PB Blaster
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Old 09-10-2014, 04:39 PM
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if you don't have a towel on top that cardboard watch out for any part falling and rolling off on the floor. any old piece of fabric will do..
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