vmaniqui

i know- that is what holding me back. such a p...a just to get into the motor wirings, i have to remove everything so it's like rebuilding the whole motor. and since you've removed everything then why not clean it, degrease it and so on and so on. wish there is an easy way to work on the 2 wirings. yes, that's a good idea, i will try the heat shrink and if it's stiff and not viable then i will cut it out and do Rain's method. now all i need to do is to buy all the materials that i need before i embark on this repair as i don't want to start and realize that i need something else and drop everything to go buy parts.

THANKS ALL.

vmaniqui

they do have a flexible heat shrink

Very Flexible Heat Shrink Polyolefin Tubing - IP49VP
Very Flexible Heat Shrink Polyolefin Tubing has a high degree of flexibility with low shrink temperature and high flame retardancy. This allows for a wide range of product applications from a single tubing. Rated at 135°C, this tubing has been engineered to offer a low shrink temperature of 100°C. This allows the tubing to shrink rapidly, thereby minimizing heat exposure and possible damage to sensitive substrate materials or components. Very Flexible Heat Shrink Tubing is ideal for aircraft/aerospace assemblies where flexible wire bundling and fire-resistant covering of components is required.

i just hope i could find this at my local Frys electronics or hardware store. might worth trying.

thanks.

mlmack

He only uses WD40 to clean the machine, not lubricate it. And then wipes down the machine with sewing machine oil.

It also sounds like he was saying that Tri-Flo grease was gummy and left a residue, and not the oil, which he said was okay, but that sewing machine oil was better.

vmaniqui

yes. WD40 to clean a dingy, dusty, dirty machine and not for anything else. and wipes with sewing machine oil. yes, as per him he'd rather use sewing machine oil and not tri-flow.

mlmack

By the way, what is an LSWS?

vmaniqui

Oh, it's Local Sewing Machine Store.

ThayerRags

Quote:

Originally Posted by mlmack

By the way, what is an LSWS?

“Local Sewing Wash-ing Shop”?

CD in Oklahoma

Macybaby

We have a Singer Troll in our area too - he's been selling for 50-60 years, and he's more of a hoarder than anything. Shop is full of really neat old Singers and attachments and NOTHING has a price on it. He won't even quote a price, and if you offer something, he smirks and says it's worth way more than that. He's past retirement age, so I guess he plans on having things until he's dead, and then they can sell for cheap, or more lkely end up in the dump since there is little market for them locally.

My husband hates going in there now, because they guy wants DH to buy his business. Not like we'd ever do that - and of course, he wants it for a price that would take all the profit out of it for the next 20 years.

He also tried to talk my husband into buying a Pfaff with a broken part -saying that since DH fixes them, he could find the part and replace it cheap. At least DH knew about that machine, and that the part is unavailable and is broke in almost all of that style machine - so it's not really worth anything - and no where near what the guy was asking.

But we also know if he could have fixed it affordably, he would have. I don't think they guy is really making any money at the shop now days, but don't think he needs to either, it's just a place he can spend his days surrounded by things he loves, and occasionally talk to a customer who walks in the door.

Every time we drive by, I look to see if there is a "going out of business" sign on the door. If he actually does start to want to sell things, I want to be at the front of the line!

oldsewnsew

"Lottsa Singers, Won't Sell?" I may turn into that guy, by the time all is said and done...

ArchaicArcane

Amortize all the time you'll spend on rebuilding this motor over the next 60 years that it will work with no issues.

I read a really good quote the other day: "If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have the time to redo it?"

The flip side of how to look at this is: What's your time worth? I like to think my time is worth enough that I'd like to do it once and be done with it, rather than revisit it again down the road because the first "fix" was inadequate. You have the information at your fingertips to do it the best way... I would say just do it.

Yes, it's time consuming the first couple of times, but it IS worth it. And once you have the experience, you won't hesitate to do another one. Thanks to Rain's tutorial, I've not balked at motor work and managed a few really good deals on machines as a result. I've probably rebuilt more than a half dozen and they take me less and less time each time.

Giving him the benefit of the doubt, I wonder if he was mistaking Tri-Flow for 3in1 which will do the things you mentioned here.

Not giving him the benefit of the doubt: He doesn't sell Tri-Flow, but he does sell the SM oil and Singer Lube....

That said, the Singer Lube is necessary for the motors, so it won't go to waste.

This is playing with fire. Yes, denatured alcohol can be very good for cleaning. It's also very useful for removing shellac (and is what Skip uses mixed with shellac to thin it for application when redoing a finish on a machine). If you have a single oops with the stuff, you'll be doing more than cleaning a machine. I've spilled almost every cleaner / polish I've ever used near a machine. Be very careful if you do this! We used a bottle of isopropyl alcohol to remove the finish on a featherweight we're preparing for paint. It was incredibly effective and way easier on the water bill than Dave McCallum's method.

WD-40 has been rumored to silver decals. This is usually, as far as I understand it, when the shellac is already failed, but sometimes that's not obvious. Again, proceed with a huge helping of caution.

Lots of people use the Car Wax. I never get the shine I'm looking for, but I'm sure that's my technique. I can get a great shine with a power polisher on the bikes or the car, just not on a sewing machine for some reason. So yes, I usually use SM oil.

Does heat shrink have the same insulative properties as the sheathing that's usually on the wire? Is it meant for long runs? I'm asking, I'm not sure. Is it as impervious to heat? Long term, with the wires warming up and cooling down, I'd be happier with a properly rebuilt motor, rather than having to go back in and do the work again.

ETA: I'm being hard on you because I know you can do this and I think you'll be happer with the result in the end. It's also empowering. It's the trainer in me at work again.