LRM

Hello all! I have enjoyed reading this section of the forum. I have a class 15 clone that I would like to know more about. I got this machine as a Christmas present in the early 1970's, when I was a teenager. As far as I know my parents bought it new at that time. It still sews, makes a pretty stitch - although it will sometimes start making teeny, tiny stitches even though I have the stitch length set to 12 SPI. It is heavy, cast iron, straight stitch only (with reverse). It has a 1.3 amp motor. I have assumed that it was made in the 60s maybe?? Metal tag on the front says Universal. But it has a metal tag on the side that says: Model TML, Deluxe Precision Sewing Machine, Made in Formosa. That "Formosa" is throwing me. I know Taiwan was called Formosa - but wasn't that way earlier than the 60s?? Why wouldn't it say Made in Taiwan? So when do you think this was made? Am I right about the 60's? Any other info would be appreciated as well.
Thanks!
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Rocsew

LRM, my best guess would be they used the archaic "Formosa" because "Taiwan" or "Republic of China" had a poor reputation back then. I don't think Taiwan really hit its industrial boom until about '70, so it probably doesn't date to much before then.

Mickey2

I don't trust the amp numbers on these motors, they can be stronger than the basic Singer at 0.6 amp, but often not noticeable difference at all. 1.3 is about as powerful you get on portable machines. On the other hand, if it's extra speedy and with a good needle punch you probably have a stronger than average motor.

Formosa means Taiwan. It fits with the date, I don't know if model 15 clones still were made in Japan that late, they had long since moved on to zigzaggers with fancy stitches by then.

You have a nice machine, the irregular stitch length is usually caused by gummed up parts, and it needs a thorough oiling. The other commmon reason is it needs a good cleaning under the throat plate (feed dog and bobbin area).

Give it a good cleaning and then oil. Detect all oil points, give them a drop or two of oil, run the machine abit while you move the stitch length lever up and down. Then repeat. Pay particular attention to the parts from the stitch length lever (reach through the lid on the back) and all moving parts under the base. If it's a bit stubborn, don't give up, keep up oiling and and test sewing a bit the next few days; it can take time to dissolve dried up oil and grime, it will gradually flush out and be replaced by clean and fresh oil.

Mickey2

It's hard to rule out a later date like 1970s. You are not the only one with a 15 clone bought this late, but they are fewer and further between. I think Singers last model 15s were made in the very early 60s? The Japanese production began soon after WWII ended, and the white, pale blue, even pink turns up in the early 1950s. They were in production for decades. Yours could of course have been in storage for a couple of years before it was sold, but usually not many. Even if the production in Taiwan doesn't have the best reputation, I would not disregard it or give up on it; it should run and stitch problem free. I don't think there's any production record on these, and a more accurate dating is difficult.

Cari-in-Oly

These clones are some of the best machines out there. I disagree with Mickey about the 1.3 amp motor though because the machines I have with a 1.3 or 1.5 amp motor will sew a bumper on a Buick, in other words they will sew whatever you can get under the foot. As for the age, I think Rocsew is probably right. Colors other than the common metallic blue came on the scene in the 60s and continued into the 70s. I have an original hand cranked clone from 1976 that's light green, another uncommon color.

Cari

Mickey2

I'm with you Cari, I didn't get the difference between 120V and 240V right. 1.3 amp in the US would be eqivanlent of 0.65 amp here. It's double the older Singer motors. It's all within reason and have noticed them on many models. It will make the machine stitch very well on any fabric.

A 1.5 amps here is not very common; it would be the same as 3 amp in the US. These are usually larger as the average domestic motor too. 3 amp is industrial here. When I mentioned I don't quite trust the specs on external motors I was thinking of the new replacement motors we can buy on ebay today. They are always as powerful as they claim to be but they usually work fine though.

Cari-in-Oly

Then we were both right Mickey as I was not thinking about UK specs. I usually don't pay too much attention to what the motor says anyway as long as it works as I don't over work my machines if I can help it. I haven't had the need yet to buy a new replacement motor so can't really say how good they are. I imagine there are good ones and not so good ones out there just like most other replacement parts for our vintage machines.

Cari

Mickey2

It should be "aren't" in the last sentence I wrote, not "are". Most of the new replacement motors are good, they are generally faster too, but doesn't always have more needle punch for some odd reasons. There are new replacement motors with genuinely higher specs than the old standard, but they need to be searched out.

They tend to be more noisy, but I have only had my hands on a few rather low cost replacements. It's hard to generlise amp and wattage since Pfaff, Husqvarna and others more often than not came with double the amps of the basic Singer. Singer made stronger motor too, but I haven't come across it yet. These model 15 clones are as strong as domestic machines get, double the amp will be hard on them at all. I have the basic Singer motor on my 201K and I don't complain at all.

LRM

Thanks for this information! And for the tip about moving the stitch length lever and oiling. Need to give that a try.

LRM

Thanks everyone for the info regarding when my machine was most likely made. I love sewing on this solid machine!