White K-130
07-08-2020, 08:18 AM
#11
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 160
Oh, one more thing:
Most people go right to the hook adjustment when the hook timing is out. While it could be the hook that's come out of spec, it can also be the needle bar.
So you need to confirm the needle bar is adjusted properly before grabbing the screwdriver and moving the hook. You fix it by just adjusting the hook, but now everything else is slightly off, where the needle/hook timing is good. It will still sew, but as time goes on and more adjustments are made, you start to see poor performance, dropped stitches, broken needles etc.
Whenever the hook timing goes outon my machines, I always run it through (at least) a cycle or two (by hand) to make sure the rest is still in spec If it checks out, I adjust the hook and move on to whatever i was doing.
If you want to increase your old machine knowledge a bit more, head to youtube and look up a poster named "Cechaflo". He goes through the basics of sewing machine operation?adjustments and does a good job of it.
Most people go right to the hook adjustment when the hook timing is out. While it could be the hook that's come out of spec, it can also be the needle bar.
So you need to confirm the needle bar is adjusted properly before grabbing the screwdriver and moving the hook. You fix it by just adjusting the hook, but now everything else is slightly off, where the needle/hook timing is good. It will still sew, but as time goes on and more adjustments are made, you start to see poor performance, dropped stitches, broken needles etc.
Whenever the hook timing goes outon my machines, I always run it through (at least) a cycle or two (by hand) to make sure the rest is still in spec If it checks out, I adjust the hook and move on to whatever i was doing.
If you want to increase your old machine knowledge a bit more, head to youtube and look up a poster named "Cechaflo". He goes through the basics of sewing machine operation?adjustments and does a good job of it.
Last edited by QuiltnNan; 07-08-2020 at 03:03 PM. Reason: shouting/all caps
07-08-2020, 03:36 PM
#13
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 160
Here it is again:
I see you got it working so I'm late to the party.
But perhaps I can pass on some knowledge that will help in the future.
There are several processes that have to happen for a machine to make a stitch. It's all called "timing", but most just assume it's about the hook/needle relationship.
The feed dogs need to be timed to the needle. Basically, the dogs have to either be dropping or dropped (ie: not moving) when the needle enters the fabric. This is so the feed dogs don't deflect the needle by pulling on the fabric. On older machines, there is a cam on the crank shaft at the rear of the machine with a set screw that allows you to adjust it. Something like so:
The thread take up lever needs to be going slack as the needle enters the fabric (some machines are slightly different in this timing, but all are pretty close). This is important for the hook timing and works with it to make a stitch. There is a set screw on the thread take up cam in the front of the machine. Be aware that adjusting this also throws your needle/hook relationship out (cam drives the needle bar also), so you will need to time that again if you mess with the take up arm cam:
"E" is the thread take up arm and the shape behind "#2" is the cam.
Now, generally, those two adjustments don't come out of true very often, it's usually the hook/needle timing that gets messed up. Most common cause is the needle gets jammed on something and the machine forces the needle bar clamp to slide/move, which throws out the needle timing. It can even move over a period of time if someone sews a lot. Just the force required to push the needle through fabric will eventually make the setting "creep". Not using a fresh needle on each new project makes it even more likely the setting may "creep", as the machine has to work harder to shove the needle through as it dulls.
Hook/needle timing. Some machines have slightly different requirements, but most old machine work the way I will describe. The hook does indeed need to be centered above the hole in the needle to pick up the thread. But it's not at the needles lowest point. Most (like singers) either have a timing mark or a clearance. In general, it's usually right around 1/10" lift from the lowest needle position. The reason for this is the needle needs to be pulling back out of the fabric as the hook passes through the scarf just above the needle hole in order to form a small loop in the thread. the friction of the thread against the fabric as the needle lifts causes the thread to form a loop. The hook then grabs the loop and feeds it around the bobbin case in order to form the lock stitch.
Now, if the thread take up lever is timed correctly, it starts it's upwards travel as the needle is coming out (but after the hook has grabbed the loop) and this is what pulls the thread around the bobbin case and make the lock stitch. it can pull the thread up out of the bobbin "well" because the thread tensioner prevent the take up lever from pulling thread from the spool. this means it has no choice but to pull the top thread up and out of the bobbin well and makes the lock stitch.
Then the process starts all over again from the beginning.
Those are the general principles of a sewing machine making a lock stitch. The only time I really use user/parts/service manuals is when I've pulled a machine down to nothing and am putting it back together. I use the manuals to "refresh" my memory on what goes where. But if you understand the "why" of a machines process, the "what" (ie; adjustments) becomes easy.
Your incorrectly installed needle actually was a timing problem, because it put the needle hole at the wrong spot inteh lock stitch cycle.
Things get more complicated when you get into sergers, multiple stitch machine or more "modern" computerized/plastic (and I use this term loosely when referring to modern stuff) "sewing machines".
Good luck with the rest of your missus' machines!
I see you got it working so I'm late to the party.
But perhaps I can pass on some knowledge that will help in the future.
There are several processes that have to happen for a machine to make a stitch. It's all called "timing", but most just assume it's about the hook/needle relationship.
The feed dogs need to be timed to the needle. Basically, the dogs have to either be dropping or dropped (ie: not moving) when the needle enters the fabric. This is so the feed dogs don't deflect the needle by pulling on the fabric. On older machines, there is a cam on the crank shaft at the rear of the machine with a set screw that allows you to adjust it. Something like so:
The thread take up lever needs to be going slack as the needle enters the fabric (some machines are slightly different in this timing, but all are pretty close). This is important for the hook timing and works with it to make a stitch. There is a set screw on the thread take up cam in the front of the machine. Be aware that adjusting this also throws your needle/hook relationship out (cam drives the needle bar also), so you will need to time that again if you mess with the take up arm cam:
"E" is the thread take up arm and the shape behind "#2" is the cam.
Now, generally, those two adjustments don't come out of true very often, it's usually the hook/needle timing that gets messed up. Most common cause is the needle gets jammed on something and the machine forces the needle bar clamp to slide/move, which throws out the needle timing. It can even move over a period of time if someone sews a lot. Just the force required to push the needle through fabric will eventually make the setting "creep". Not using a fresh needle on each new project makes it even more likely the setting may "creep", as the machine has to work harder to shove the needle through as it dulls.
Hook/needle timing. Some machines have slightly different requirements, but most old machine work the way I will describe. The hook does indeed need to be centered above the hole in the needle to pick up the thread. But it's not at the needles lowest point. Most (like singers) either have a timing mark or a clearance. In general, it's usually right around 1/10" lift from the lowest needle position. The reason for this is the needle needs to be pulling back out of the fabric as the hook passes through the scarf just above the needle hole in order to form a small loop in the thread. the friction of the thread against the fabric as the needle lifts causes the thread to form a loop. The hook then grabs the loop and feeds it around the bobbin case in order to form the lock stitch.
Now, if the thread take up lever is timed correctly, it starts it's upwards travel as the needle is coming out (but after the hook has grabbed the loop) and this is what pulls the thread around the bobbin case and make the lock stitch. it can pull the thread up out of the bobbin "well" because the thread tensioner prevent the take up lever from pulling thread from the spool. this means it has no choice but to pull the top thread up and out of the bobbin well and makes the lock stitch.
Then the process starts all over again from the beginning.
Those are the general principles of a sewing machine making a lock stitch. The only time I really use user/parts/service manuals is when I've pulled a machine down to nothing and am putting it back together. I use the manuals to "refresh" my memory on what goes where. But if you understand the "why" of a machines process, the "what" (ie; adjustments) becomes easy.
Your incorrectly installed needle actually was a timing problem, because it put the needle hole at the wrong spot inteh lock stitch cycle.
Things get more complicated when you get into sergers, multiple stitch machine or more "modern" computerized/plastic (and I use this term loosely when referring to modern stuff) "sewing machines".
Good luck with the rest of your missus' machines!
Last edited by QuiltnNan; 07-09-2020 at 03:52 AM. Reason: comments on moderation are not permitted
07-08-2020, 04:04 PM
#14
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 4,259
Originally Posted by great white
Here it is again:
I see you got it working so I'm late to the party.
But perhaps I can pass on some knowledge that will help in the future.
There are several processes that have to happen for a machine to make a stitch. It's all called "timing", but most just assume it's about the hook/needle relationship.
The feed dogs need to be timed to the needle. Basically, the dogs have to either be dropping or dropped (ie: not moving) when the needle enters the fabric. This is so the feed dogs don't deflect the needle by pulling on the fabric. On older machines, there is a cam on the crank shaft at the rear of the machine with a set screw that allows you to adjust it. Something like so:
https://www.researchgate.net/figure/...fig1_284142170
The thread take up lever needs to be going slack as the needle enters the fabric (some machines are slightly different in this timing, but all are pretty close). This is important for the hook timing and works with it to make a stitch. There is a set screw on the thread take up cam in the front of the machine. Be aware that adjusting this also throws your needle/hook relationship out (cam drives the needle bar also), so you will need to time that again if you mess with the take up arm cam:
http://clothingandindividualequipmen...207-14_412.htm
"E" is the thread take up arm and the shape behind "#2" is the cam.
Now, generally, those two adjustments don't come out of true very often, it's usually the hook/needle timing that gets messed up. Most common cause is the needle gets jammed on something and the machine forces the needle bar clamp to slide/move, which throws out the needle timing. It can even move over a period of time if someone sews a lot. Just the force required to push the needle through fabric will eventually make the setting "creep". Not using a fresh needle on each new project makes it even more likely the setting may "creep", as the machine has to work harder to shove the needle through as it dulls.
Hook/needle timing. Some machines have slightly different requirements, but most old machine work the way I will describe. The hook does indeed need to be centered above the hole in the needle to pick up the thread. But it's not at the needles lowest point. Most (like singers) either have a timing mark or a clearance. In general, it's usually right around 1/10" lift from the lowest needle position. The reason for this is the needle needs to be pulling back out of the fabric as the hook passes through the scarf just above the needle hole in order to form a small loop in the thread. the friction of the thread against the fabric as the needle lifts causes the thread to form a loop. The hook then grabs the loop and feeds it around the bobbin case in order to form the lock stitch.
Now, if the thread take up lever is timed correctly, it starts it's upwards travel as the needle is coming out (but after the hook has grabbed the loop) and this is what pulls the thread around the bobbin case and make the lock stitch. it can pull the thread up out of the bobbin "well" because the thread tensioner prevent the take up lever from pulling thread from the spool. this means it has no choice but to pull the top thread up and out of the bobbin well and makes the lock stitch.
Then the process starts all over again from the beginning.
Those are the general principles of a sewing machine making a lock stitch. The only time I really use user/parts/service manuals is when I've pulled a machine down to nothing and am putting it back together. I use the manuals to "refresh" my memory on what goes where. But if you understand the "why" of a machines process, the "what" (ie; adjustments) becomes easy.
Your incorrectly installed needle actually was a timing problem, because it put the needle hole at the wrong spot inteh lock stitch cycle.
Things get more complicated when you get into sergers, multiple stitch machine or more "modern" computerized/plastic (and I use this term loosely when referring to modern stuff) "sewing machines".
Good luck with the rest of your missus' machines!
I see you got it working so I'm late to the party.
But perhaps I can pass on some knowledge that will help in the future.
There are several processes that have to happen for a machine to make a stitch. It's all called "timing", but most just assume it's about the hook/needle relationship.
The feed dogs need to be timed to the needle. Basically, the dogs have to either be dropping or dropped (ie: not moving) when the needle enters the fabric. This is so the feed dogs don't deflect the needle by pulling on the fabric. On older machines, there is a cam on the crank shaft at the rear of the machine with a set screw that allows you to adjust it. Something like so:
https://www.researchgate.net/figure/...fig1_284142170
The thread take up lever needs to be going slack as the needle enters the fabric (some machines are slightly different in this timing, but all are pretty close). This is important for the hook timing and works with it to make a stitch. There is a set screw on the thread take up cam in the front of the machine. Be aware that adjusting this also throws your needle/hook relationship out (cam drives the needle bar also), so you will need to time that again if you mess with the take up arm cam:
http://clothingandindividualequipmen...207-14_412.htm
"E" is the thread take up arm and the shape behind "#2" is the cam.
Now, generally, those two adjustments don't come out of true very often, it's usually the hook/needle timing that gets messed up. Most common cause is the needle gets jammed on something and the machine forces the needle bar clamp to slide/move, which throws out the needle timing. It can even move over a period of time if someone sews a lot. Just the force required to push the needle through fabric will eventually make the setting "creep". Not using a fresh needle on each new project makes it even more likely the setting may "creep", as the machine has to work harder to shove the needle through as it dulls.
Hook/needle timing. Some machines have slightly different requirements, but most old machine work the way I will describe. The hook does indeed need to be centered above the hole in the needle to pick up the thread. But it's not at the needles lowest point. Most (like singers) either have a timing mark or a clearance. In general, it's usually right around 1/10" lift from the lowest needle position. The reason for this is the needle needs to be pulling back out of the fabric as the hook passes through the scarf just above the needle hole in order to form a small loop in the thread. the friction of the thread against the fabric as the needle lifts causes the thread to form a loop. The hook then grabs the loop and feeds it around the bobbin case in order to form the lock stitch.
Now, if the thread take up lever is timed correctly, it starts it's upwards travel as the needle is coming out (but after the hook has grabbed the loop) and this is what pulls the thread around the bobbin case and make the lock stitch. it can pull the thread up out of the bobbin "well" because the thread tensioner prevent the take up lever from pulling thread from the spool. this means it has no choice but to pull the top thread up and out of the bobbin well and makes the lock stitch.
Then the process starts all over again from the beginning.
Those are the general principles of a sewing machine making a lock stitch. The only time I really use user/parts/service manuals is when I've pulled a machine down to nothing and am putting it back together. I use the manuals to "refresh" my memory on what goes where. But if you understand the "why" of a machines process, the "what" (ie; adjustments) becomes easy.
Your incorrectly installed needle actually was a timing problem, because it put the needle hole at the wrong spot inteh lock stitch cycle.
Things get more complicated when you get into sergers, multiple stitch machine or more "modern" computerized/plastic (and I use this term loosely when referring to modern stuff) "sewing machines".
Good luck with the rest of your missus' machines!
Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
Not affiliated with off-site link(s)
10-04-2020, 01:53 PM
#16
Member
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 4
White model# k-130
Originally Posted by jimhollis
Hey all...
New to the forums and my first post. My wife is a collector of older sewing machines and I have, by default, become the sewing machine guy. She has a White K-130 machine that I'm guessing is from the late 50s early 60s but I'm not having any luck finding any information on this at all. It has what I believe to be a timing issue and for the life of me I can't find where to adjust it. I'm hoping someone here can point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance for your help and suggestions...
New to the forums and my first post. My wife is a collector of older sewing machines and I have, by default, become the sewing machine guy. She has a White K-130 machine that I'm guessing is from the late 50s early 60s but I'm not having any luck finding any information on this at all. It has what I believe to be a timing issue and for the life of me I can't find where to adjust it. I'm hoping someone here can point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance for your help and suggestions...
New to the forums and my first post. My wife is a collector of older sewing machines and I have, by default, become the sewing machine guy. She has a White K-130 machine that I'm guessing is from the late 50s early 60s but I'm not having any luck finding any information on this at all. It has what I believe to be a timing issue and for the life of me I can't find where to adjust it. I'm hoping someone here can point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance for your help and suggestions...[/QUOTE]
10-05-2020, 03:14 AM
#17
Member
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 4
Picture White k-130
Originally Posted by K-130
Hi I am also new to the forum and this is my first post. Believe it or not I found my White k-130 beautiful sewing machine in the garbage and with the help of this forum I was able to download the manual from the singer site. I need to purchase some parts but I am having a hard time finding them anywhere my sewing machine is missing the presser foot and bobbin cover plate. Did you have to buy any parts? If so maybe you could share with me where you were able to purchase them? I was not able to upload the picture of my sewing machine it looks jist like yours same color. Thanks
New to the forums and my first post. My wife is a collector of older sewing machines and I have, by default, become the sewing machine guy. She has a White K-130 machine that I'm guessing is from the late 50s early 60s but I'm not having any luck finding any information on this at all. It has what I believe to be a timing issue and for the life of me I can't find where to adjust it. I'm hoping someone here can point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance for your help and suggestions...
New to the forums and my first post. My wife is a collector of older sewing machines and I have, by default, become the sewing machine guy. She has a White K-130 machine that I'm guessing is from the late 50s early 60s but I'm not having any luck finding any information on this at all. It has what I believe to be a timing issue and for the life of me I can't find where to adjust it. I'm hoping someone here can point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance for your help and suggestions...
I had to resize my pictures so I could upload them you can see in the first picture that the presser foot and bobin cover plate is missing. I hope I can find these parts I love this sewing machine and feel the need to bring it back to good working condition. Would really be grateful for any help I could get to order and replace these parts. Thanks
10-05-2020, 05:57 AM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Sunset Coast of Michigan
Posts: 965
I thought the flat side was always in the direction of the bobbin case unless it is a drop in, then it is in the direction of the top of the race (the top or middle of the pointy finger thingy) because that's where the thread is picked up?
Also, Jim, what do you use to keep vintage cords supple and not dried out?
Thanks in advance!
Also, Jim, what do you use to keep vintage cords supple and not dried out?
Thanks in advance!
10-05-2020, 06:02 AM
#20
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 4,259
Welcome, K-130. I'm not positive, but it looks like the bobbin slide plate would be #15147 which is 2 7/8" X 2 1/2". As for the foot you will need a high shank foot. I believe you have a "left-homing" machine, which means that the needle is in the left position for straight stitching. I couldn't find a USA site but found https://www.sewingparts.co.uk/machin...white-130.html and if you look at the Sewing Machine High Lift Straight Stitch Foot you will see that the needle hole is not in the center of the foot, but off to the left. I think that the zigzag foot would be offset a bit as well. I do have some left homing machines, but haven't actually compared the feet.
Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
Not affiliated with off-site link(s)
Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
Not affiliated with off-site link(s)
